R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-03-2014, 05:03 PM   #1141
fmm
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 97
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
We mostly don't do that in sedan anymore either, it changes the flex of the chassis and modern CF is much less prone to delaminating. I didn't do it to my SP1 and no issues

regarding the long post: do you mean the Long steering pivot ball? I have not seen a long steering post option.
The ref number of the long steering posts is: sp001137 and you can find them here http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php/speed-passion/lm-1-replacement-parts/speed-passion-aluminum-steering-post-gun-metal-sp001137.html

The standard steering post are the sp000663.

I am a bit confused about a proper setup of all the shims for the steering. Could some let me know a good starting point? Should I used the kit setup?

Thank you so much in advance!!
fmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2014, 07:07 PM   #1142
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 296
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

So f1 is making a come back so I am gonna get this chassis. Few questions. Will be running 21.5, carpet low / med grip, rubber tires. Just wondering if I should use a reg servo or lowpro one. Any pro/cons? Same with reg vs shorty packs. Thats it for now.
rescue119 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2014, 08:27 PM   #1143
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmm View Post
The ref number of the long steering posts is: sp001137 and you can find them here http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...-sp001137.html

The standard steering post are the sp000663.

I am a bit confused about a proper setup of all the shims for the steering. Could some let me know a good starting point? Should I used the kit setup?

Thank you so much in advance!!
That post is for the LM-1 which is the LMP version of this chassis. Most of the chassis are the same but there are some differences. As for the shims I would suggest starting with the kit setup...it works decently well and will give you a good starting point to make adjustments from.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rescue119 View Post
So f1 is making a come back so I am gonna get this chassis. Few questions. Will be running 21.5, carpet low / med grip, rubber tires. Just wondering if I should use a reg servo or lowpro one. Any pro/cons? Same with reg vs shorty packs. Thats it for now.
Shorty pack gives you more room and more setup options so I would reccomend that. I run a low profile servo but have it mounted like a normal servo...this gives me a little more room to mount the transponder behind the servo. A full size servo will also stick out past the servo mounts so it will slightly reduce the adjustment area to move the battery forward or back.
__________________
Apex RC
www.apexrc.com - Hawaii's #1 RC Proshop

Share & Like Our Page:https://www.facebook.com/ApexRCProshop
Win free stuff!
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2014, 12:44 PM   #1144
fmm
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 97
Default

Hi again!

Perhaps a silly question but I am a bit confused...

I have started to build the cat and in the step 1 (lower brace) of the manual, I need to attach the 5mm pivot ball to the chassis by using 3x6mm flat head crews. When I do it, the 3x6mm flat screws are to long and there is a gap between the pivot ball and the chassis, therefore the pivot ball remain loose.... Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

Thank you very much in advance!!!
fmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2014, 08:39 PM   #1145
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 296
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

for got to ask about what type of tires/brand for low med grip carpet rubber


also will be running 190mm wide so does it matter what wheels i put on? and do most tires fit on other wheels or do you have to stay brand loyal?
rescue119 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 09:40 AM   #1146
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,025
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmm View Post
Hi again!

Perhaps a silly question but I am a bit confused...

I have started to build the cat and in the step 1 (lower brace) of the manual, I need to attach the 5mm pivot ball to the chassis by using 3x6mm flat head crews. When I do it, the 3x6mm flat screws are to long and there is a gap between the pivot ball and the chassis, therefore the pivot ball remain loose.... Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

Thank you very much in advance!!!
Make sure you're not using a 3x8mm screw. Even with the correct 3x6mm there is very little "depth" left in the ball for your hex wrench as you get it tight, so make sure you're using a quality hex wrench. And a ball type hex wrench won't work.

When you do tighten it, make sure it's TIGHT and use loctite. You don't want to have to try and dig in there later, been there done that I thought mine was tight, and was wrong.
__________________
Stop the hate! 'White Wheels Matter'

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 10:56 AM   #1147
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmm View Post
Hi again!

Perhaps a silly question but I am a bit confused...

I have started to build the cat and in the step 1 (lower brace) of the manual, I need to attach the 5mm pivot ball to the chassis by using 3x6mm flat head crews. When I do it, the 3x6mm flat screws are to long and there is a gap between the pivot ball and the chassis, therefore the pivot ball remain loose.... Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

Thank you very much in advance!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Make sure you're not using a 3x8mm screw. Even with the correct 3x6mm there is very little "depth" left in the ball for your hex wrench as you get it tight, so make sure you're using a quality hex wrench. And a ball type hex wrench won't work.

When you do tighten it, make sure it's TIGHT and use Loctite. You don't want to have to try and dig in there later, been there done that I thought mine was tight, and was wrong.
As I recall mine had a bit of metal flashing in them due to the process of pressing the hex into place for the hex driver to tighten it. I use a 3mm tap to clean out the pivot ball first otherwise the screw will not thread all the way in.
__________________
Apex RC
www.apexrc.com - Hawaii's #1 RC Proshop

Share & Like Our Page:https://www.facebook.com/ApexRCProshop
Win free stuff!
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 11:37 AM   #1148
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,278
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to liljohn1064 Send a message via MSN to liljohn1064 Send a message via Yahoo to liljohn1064
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
As I recall mine had a bit of metal flashing in them due to the process of pressing the hex into place for the hex driver to tighten it. I use a 3mm tap to clean out the pivot ball first otherwise the screw will not thread all the way in.
Spot on. I cracked one and used a Tamiya pivot ball instead. Every SP ball has flashing from pressing in the hex on top. You have to make sure it's all clear before putting the screw in.
__________________
John Higgins
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 12:10 PM   #1149
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,025
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
As I recall mine had a bit of metal flashing in them due to the process of pressing the hex into place for the hex driver to tighten it. I use a 3mm tap to clean out the pivot ball first otherwise the screw will not thread all the way in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Spot on. I cracked one and used a Tamiya pivot ball instead. Every SP ball has flashing from pressing in the hex on top. You have to make sure it's all clear before putting the screw in.
Good info! I never noticed and would assume this is why I thought mine was tight when I built my LMP car, only to find out after a test run that it wasn't as tight as I thought and the rear pod loosened.
__________________
Stop the hate! 'White Wheels Matter'

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 02:10 PM   #1150
fmm
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 97
Default

This is great info!! Thank you very much!!

I will clean up insiste of the pivot balls, otherwise I can not tight them enough.

One more question, reading this thread, I have seem people talking about the optional aluminium diff house, what is the difference with the one included in the kit? Both have the same reference and the only difference I have been able to notice is that the optional one has "speed passion" writen in white.

Thank you in advance!
fmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 06:10 PM   #1151
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,278
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to liljohn1064 Send a message via MSN to liljohn1064 Send a message via Yahoo to liljohn1064
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmm View Post
The ref number of the long steering posts is: sp001137 and you can find them here http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...-sp001137.html

The standard steering post are the sp000663.

I am a bit confused about a proper setup of all the shims for the steering. Could some let me know a good starting point? Should I used the kit setup?

Thank you so much in advance!!
Answered before..... The long steering post is for the LM-1 and mount to the chassis. The posts for the SP-1 mount to the suspension plate. Use the standard ones and shim them up as needed.
__________________
John Higgins
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2014, 01:39 PM   #1152
fmm
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 97
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Answered before..... The long steering post is for the LM-1 and mount to the chassis. The posts for the SP-1 mount to the suspension plate. Use the standard ones and shim them up as needed.
Thanks!!
fmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2014, 10:43 PM   #1153
Tech Regular
 
blwaz23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 263
Default

I was wondering what are the positives and negatives of the SP1. What parts break the most and is there any brand that sells upgrades for this car. Last how well does this car handle stock and is it an easy car to tune.
blwaz23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2014, 07:01 PM   #1154
Tech Adept
 
zephuros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 192
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
In general when you need more turn in:
Increase shock length to create more pod droop

Add toe out - like 2-3*

Go to inline axles

Taller ballstud on steering knuckle

Steering in general:
Increase front droop to allow car to roll more

Increase height of upper arms
Hi Rob. I took your advice. Made a huge difference to the way the car turns. There's a lot more front bite now off throttle, but on-throttle steering is still poor. I finally moved the ESC out to the side and installed a full length Lipo as well. The extra weight has also helped with stability.

However. The one thing which has really transformed the car is going to a direct steering system ala F104. I threw out the bell crank and replaced the balls and cups with tamiya units. Steering feels more responsive, and that feeling of the car wagging its way through the turns is now gone. Will add a picture later.

Also, when you said increase height of upper arms did you mean under the ball studs where the arms mount on the chassis?
__________________
__________________

==============
awww bollox....
zephuros is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2014, 07:21 PM   #1155
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,402
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zephuros View Post
Hi Rob. I took your advice. Made a huge difference to the way the car turns. There's a lot more front bite now off throttle, but on-throttle steering is still poor. I finally moved the ESC out to the side and installed a full length Lipo as well. The extra weight has also helped with stability.
Try going stiffer on the center spring to start.Also see below.

However. The one thing which has really transformed the car is going to a direct steering system ala F104. I threw out the bell crank and replaced the balls and cups with tamiya units. Steering feels more responsive, and that feeling of the car wagging its way through the turns is now gone. Will add a picture later.
Interesting....

Also, when you said increase height of upper arms did you mean under the ball studs where the arms mount on the chassis?
Yes add spacers or taller ball studs. That should help with the on power steering
answers in blue
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:40 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0