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Old 06-26-2014, 11:20 AM   #1126
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You don't need the aluminum servo mounts...you can just cut the stock plastic ones. I'm not sure on the steering sector arm...if I recall correctly the aluminum one is made to get back some of the lost steering throw due to the lower arms being closer in. Technically you don't need the aluminum caster block either as you can just drill new holes in the plastic...but the aluminum one is easier and more accurate.

Our track is really bumpy too and many of us have tried chassis protectors but end up taking them off...it sounds odd...but they do seem to cause some tweak to the chassis. I could never quite get my pan cars handling right with the protectors on. Even the TC guys ended up taking theirs off for the most part.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:26 AM   #1127
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Thank you very much for the answers (racer1812 & liljohn1064)!!

I will buy the aluminum caster block and do the 185mm setting. However according to the manual at PetitRC (Speed Passion), the aluminum steering bridge and the aluminum servo mount set are required to the 185mm setting. Is this right? What are the differences between the plastic servo mount and steering bridge and the aluminum ones? Just the material or is it something different?

According to the Solara’s instructions to do the 185mm setting (page 23), I need to remove the front portion of the servo mount… this is why I was wondering if the aluminum servo mount is already prepared for the 185mm setting

My experience on touring is that if you have aluminum steering bridge, typically you improve the steering response and therefore the turn in. So this is why I was thinking on the aluminum steering bridge.

I use Shorty packs and reading the recent post about the Ride R1 tires and the lack of steering, I think I will place the battery all the way forward to have a bit more weight in the front.

I would also like to have and try some softer side/front springs. Which are the AE springs that I need? I am saying AE because they seem to be very popular, but if there are others… it is fine to me as well.

And my last question, maybe silly but I use it very often in my touring car… is there any chassis protector for the SP-1? Our track is very bumpy, aggressive and it damage a lot the chassis, so…

Thanks again to everybody!
Yes you do have to trim the plastic servo mount. Just remove the two front tabs. I do not have the alu bits, but I plan on getting them at some point. I think it's the only part I haven't taken the option for.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:44 AM   #1128
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I'm not sure on the steering sector arm...if I recall correctly the aluminum one is made to get back some of the lost steering throw due to the lower arms being closer in.
You are correct! It moves the ballstud hole inboard far enough that it doesn't hit the lower arm.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:14 PM   #1129
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So, I think I have decided on a SP-1 . Shortly , gives there weaknesses and which parts should I order with.?
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:17 PM   #1130
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have spare steering knuckles and rear links...other than that not much breaks
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:35 PM   #1131
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Thank you very much.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:18 AM   #1132
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Thank you very much to all the answers! I think that I am getting a clearer picture now about the options I need.

A couple of additional questions:

I want to have some extra front and side springs (mainly softer to obtain a bit more of steering) which ones are the AE springs that you are using)?

The second questions is about the rear carbon axle. If I want to use the rear carbon axle, do I need to use the optional motor mount 540? Or could I use the rear carbon axle with the original motor mount?

Thank you in advance!!
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:00 PM   #1133
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I'm using the stock front and side springs. The stock front springs are super soft...I don't think your going to find anything softer. As for the sides I'm not sure how they compare to the AE ones.

The motor mount shouldn't affect which axle you use.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:53 AM   #1134
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Thank you very much!

I hace allready received my SP-1 and tonigth I will start wing the assembling . The car looks awesome!!

How many shims do I need to use for the steering? I have seem many different combinations and I don't really understand why. Could someone explain to me how to setup the shims and their effect?

I have also shim that's there are some optional long steering post/colums. Are those ones to avoid the shimming under the steering colums?

Thanks again for helping me so much!!
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:16 AM   #1135
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The stock shim on the bell crank post is so the bell cranks can clear the nut holding the suspension plate on. Raising/lowering the bell cranks or the ball stud on the steering knuckles changes the amount and type of bump steer the car gets when the suspension compresses. Adding/removing shims from the 2 steering ball studs on the bell crank changes the amount of ackerman the steering has.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:37 PM   #1136
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Great!! Thank you very much your answer!

So the optional long steering post is basically to clear the nut of the suspension plate, am I right? Is this an option that you typically use? Or people just add shims under the steering post?

Thanks!!!
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:40 PM   #1137
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Is the SP-1 an easy car to drive out of the box? Is it hard to tune?
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:49 PM   #1138
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And one more question... Sorry for all the my doubts...

Does anybody sealed the chassis edges with CA? In touring cars we typically do it, so I wonder if in F1 is needed or not.

Thanks!!
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:57 PM   #1139
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Originally Posted by fmm View Post
Great!! Thank you very much your answer!

So the optional long steering post is basically to clear the nut of the suspension plate, am I right? Is this an option that you typically use? Or people just add shims under the steering post?

Thanks!!!
I haven't seen the optional long steering post. I would imagine that would be so you can keep the same bump steer setting when raising/lowering the suspension arms to change front ride height. I do all my ride height adjustments between the chassis and the suspension plate so that my suspension geometry doesn't change...so I don't use or need the long steering post.

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Is the SP-1 an easy car to drive out of the box? Is it hard to tune?
That will depend on the surface you are driving on and the tires you use. For the most part the box stock setup works quite well on most surfaces with the Pit Shimizu 571/572 tires. I personally find I like the feel of the 574/572 tire combination better.

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And one more question... Sorry for all the my doubts...

Does anybody sealed the chassis edges with CA? In touring cars we typically do it, so I wonder if in F1 is needed or not.

Thanks!!
Today's carbon fiber is a lot better quality than it was 20 years ago so CA'ing the chassis edge is not so needed for any RC cars these days. It is still a good thing to do but not really needed. At the very least I sand down the sharp and rough edges but rarely bother to CA them these days.
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Old 07-03-2014, 04:43 PM   #1140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmm View Post
And one more question... Sorry for all the my doubts...

Does anybody sealed the chassis edges with CA? In touring cars we typically do it, so I wonder if in F1 is needed or not.

Thanks!!
We mostly don't do that in sedan anymore either, it changes the flex of the chassis and modern CF is much less prone to delaminating. I didn't do it to my SP1 and no issues

regarding the long post: do you mean the Long steering pivot ball? I have not seen a long steering post option.
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