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Old 05-05-2014, 08:36 PM   #1096
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As the you add or remove posts, or use a more forward or backward position, you change the way the car will act. All the posts locked down will actually kill a lot of rotation/steering mid corner and calm the car. Less posts usually result in a car that will rotate more but may feel less reactive off center, also may feel like it wanders a bit. This is accentuated if you were to use only the back posts. Using only the front posts would feel more like the car with all posts locked down.

This usually becomes more sensitive on carpet, but it is pretty much the same on any surface. Also a car that is not stiff enough front to back can get a "long" feeling like you a driving a limo. The car may be "taco"-ing on corner entry. This is a cue to stiffen the top deck or use a stiffer chassis. The opposite occurs when you use a really stiff chassis or a full length top deck - instant steering off center. This is not torsional stiffness. You could twist the car like a pretzel side to side, but if it is stiff front to back it will be reactive.
This is an interesting point. Would you suggest just trying out the front posts? or the front two only? Maybe this is something I just flat out need to experiment more with!

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Old 05-06-2014, 08:42 AM   #1097
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This is an interesting point. Would you suggest just trying out the front posts? or the front two only? Maybe this is something I just flat out need to experiment more with!

Cheers
Ed
Definitely somethong to try as the change is very quick to make trackside
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:24 AM   #1098
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At the moment, no. The front upper arm shims are something I've been playing around with a fair bit, and have tended to prefer having a slightly higher front compared to rear. Normally end up 1mm front, 0mm rear (so as kit). This is even with the lower arms raised for correct ride height. Putting shims under the rear ball makes the steering too aggressive, IMO.


HiH
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Basically, if you DON'T raise the rear arm ball stud (next to the servo) when you add shims to lower the ride height (5mm vs. 2mm stock for me) you're adding caster..? Not much but running the rear ball stud lower compared to stock would essentially pull the top of the spindle back, again, adding caster compared to the stock set up..correct me if I'm wrong..
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:23 PM   #1099
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Basically, if you DON'T raise the rear arm ball stud (next to the servo) when you add shims to lower the ride height (5mm vs. 2mm stock for me) you're adding caster..? Not much but running the rear ball stud lower compared to stock would essentially pull the top of the spindle back, again, adding caster compared to the stock set up..correct me if I'm wrong..
Adding/removing shims under the inside front arms changes the camber gain and reactive caster. Static caster does not change. Raising the inner arm by the same amount changes camber gain. Adding angle to the arm by raising the rear mount or lowering the front mount increases reactive caster. Reactive caster reduces caster as the suspension compresses. This way you can have less caster at the apex of a turn where you would want less caster and more at corner entry and exit.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:29 PM   #1100
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Basically, if you DON'T raise the rear arm ball stud (next to the servo) when you add shims to lower the ride height (5mm vs. 2mm stock for me) you're adding caster..? Not much but running the rear ball stud lower compared to stock would essentially pull the top of the spindle back, again, adding caster compared to the stock set up..correct me if I'm wrong..
Correct, although as InspGadgt says, it affects the reactive castor more.
I have tried the car with the rear balls shimmed up to compensate for running extra shims under the arms (for ride height) but really didn't like how it made the car drive on track. So I set it back to kit settings after looking at my notes from the first runs with the car.
It is something I want to revisit though, now I have more of an handle on what does what with a link car, and I do think it's a useful tuning options to help get the handling just right.

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Old 05-07-2014, 09:33 AM   #1101
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I finally got back to my SP-1 last night on carpet. Got 3 packs through it, about an hour of actual driving time. I think I've solved just about about all of the self induced pain my tuning had brought me to. I just need to find a tad more balance toward off power steering.

Current setup:
1.5* camber
1* toe out
Kit silver spring, just touching for preload.
Droop is .5 mm
3 mm Ackerman shims on the steering bridge, aluminum hop up version.
Horizontal servo, modified suspension plate.
Middle hole in steering arm.
Front arms have no shims on servo side, 2 mm on caster block.
5* caster, all shims back.
inline axle.
4.5 mm ride height
571 Pit fronts

Battery back
Electronics forward of battery, up to servo.
16 gauge wire.
Kit center shock with kit oil
Kit center spring
Front upper deck posts removed

Kit side spring
Wide carbon spring mount/battery brace
Kit springs mounted wide over links (need to try lighter springs)
30k CRC Damper lube
Geared 69/24
575 Pit Rears

The rear end stayed glued down in the corners and had plenty of forward bite. The last thing I noticed at the track was the servo had started to shift, needs more tape or some shoe goo.
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:34 AM   #1102
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Photos please!
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:43 AM   #1103
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Hey guys. My first ever race with the SP1 and I got it to the podium at AOC last weekend here in Malaysia. No major setup changes. The car just loved the Solaris tires. Worked great once I got the diff right.
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:12 PM   #1104
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Hey guys. My first ever race with the SP1 and I got it to the podium at AOC last weekend here in Malaysia. No major setup changes. The car just loved the Solaris tires. Worked great once I got the diff right.

Is this you with the red shirt? Either way congratulation on a great result.


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Old 06-08-2014, 09:04 AM   #1105
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Hey nexus.

Yup it sure is. That's me and the machine. Got another 3rd place finish at a local race today. Tamiya black side springs and Solaris rubber. Car was great. Hardly touched anything else on the car. I really love the car. Took a couple of knocks here and there but remained reliable all day. :-)
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:50 AM   #1106
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Solaris makes F1 tires?
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:29 PM   #1107
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They sure do. And they're pretty decent too. The fronts don't last and start to blister up like the Pits very easily. The rears on the other hand still look new after 12 run. Only difference from the Ride R1s I usually use - the rear tires are narrower by 3mm. Strangely... Just checked their website and The tires aren't listed there... Hmm...
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:58 PM   #1108
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Interesting...I wouldn't mind trying them but I don't think any US distributor carries them.

I haven't had any problems with the Pit fronts blistering...are your running on asphalt or carpet?
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:18 PM   #1109
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Interesting...I wouldn't mind trying them but I don't think any US distributor carries them.

I haven't had any problems with the Pit fronts blistering...are your running on asphalt or carpet?
Ah I'm out here in tropical Malaysia where our asphalt regularly reaches 60C (140F) in the afternoon sun. Hers a pic of the tires. The wheels look like the new wheels from Sweep. Just wondering if Sweep makes these tires for Solaris now... Hmm...

[IMG] Solaris F1 tires by SidhuD, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:28 AM   #1110
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I'm in the tropics too in Hawaii...our asphalt gets hotter than most places in the US but I'm not sure if it gets that hot. I'd have to ask the people that actually check. I don't normally bother to check as long as the car is working.
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