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Old 04-28-2014, 01:53 AM   #1081
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Thanks I'll try that setup. I've been given some tamiya 104 tyres I'd like to experiment with and wasn't sure how to go about it.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:34 AM   #1082
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I've read somewhere that the SP1 can run F104 wheels and tyres. Can anyone point me to the details on setting up the front of the car to achieve the correct ride height? Rear is easy enough with the inserts, just not sure about how to do the front.
PS. Ed, your car ran well at Tamworth, and aside from our tangle on saturday it was a fun weekend.
I'm guessing this is Brendon? Yeah, car was pretty good, although couldn't get close to Rob, but I think that went for the rest of the field. I think I spent too much time trying to get the car perfect, rather than just drive it!

As for the ride height, as metalnut said, add shims under the arms. I currently have 4mm under (instead of the kit 2mm), to give 5mm ride height with Pit 571's, and the kit front springs. I've also added 3mm of shims under the steering posts to help remove some of the bump steer when using the higher arms.

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Old 04-28-2014, 05:58 AM   #1083
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Yeah that's it, sometimes we maybe spend too much time thinking the car isn't good enough instead of trying to turn good consistent laps. It's a shame Rob didn't make the last final cos I think he would likely have cleaned it up.
And yep, this is Brendan. On a side note, thanks for taking the time to have a chat on Saturday. It was good of you, and made for a much more enjoyable weekend!
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:17 AM   #1084
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BTW, can anyone tell me if an Australian retailer sells the Pit 571/572 tyres? Did a bit of a search but came up empty.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:23 AM   #1085
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BTW, can anyone tell me if an Australian retailer sells the Pit 571/572 tyres? Did a bit of a search but came up empty.
Normally pick them up from RCMart in HK, or TQ in the states. Both pretty similar shipping times, and cost.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:36 AM   #1086
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I followed the speed passion track width setting guide pdf on their website and it gave me perfect front ride height for pit tires.


I am having a weird issue where when I am running and I turn the wheels they never return to the same center every time, any idea's other than servo, which I am going to replace just in case?
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:39 AM   #1087
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I followed the speed passion track width setting guide pdf on their website and it gave me perfect front ride height for pit tires.


I am having a weird issue where when I am running and I turn the wheels they never return to the same center every time, any idea's other than servo, which I am going to replace just in case?
The servo could be moving around if it's not glued in properly, but also the steering rack has a lot of slop. I went to direct steering (links to servo saver, no rack) and that helped. But it could definitely be your servo failing to center if the gears are damaged and/or the servo is cheap.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:21 AM   #1088
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It could also be the pillow balls if they are set too tight.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:33 AM   #1089
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EC - SEQ Interclub 2014 Rnd1

Things to note on it are;
  • Front ride height is set with 1mm under the plate (kit) and 4.5mm under the arms.
  • Width is in 190mm setup, mainly as the Ride rear have a different offset and are wider compared to Pits. Hence also no need for axle shims with the Rides.
  • Steering rack is raised 3mm to improve bump steer, but otherwise as kit, including 1mm Ackerman shim.
  • Servo is mounted with the spline vertical, and the horn flat so as to remove angle issues with the drag link. Same setup as seen here. Also helps hold the battery in place better
  • Using carbon reinforced side links and front hubs, plus carbon battery brace, and v2 left rear axle hub
  • As mentioned above, settled on front upper arm inner shims as 2mm front, 0mm rear.

Regards
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Ed,
I am about 90% done with my build and wiring for my new SP-1 and was going to try your setup. I am running into an issue with fitting the motor/pinion however. Did you have to mod the holes on the motor/pod plate for the pinion to fit. I am using the stock spur gear and need to be around 2.8 fdr and this isn't fitting.

Do you have any spacers under the ball studs on the front arms in the back where it mounts to the servo holder?

From the setup sheet it looks like you are not using the front battery posts/upper deck holders. Is this for easier battery removal or does this have a handling effect making it less stiff?
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:51 AM   #1090
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Ed,
I am about 90% done with my build and wiring for my new SP-1 and was going to try your setup. I am running into an issue with fitting the motor/pinion however. Did you have to mod the holes on the motor/pod plate for the pinion to fit. I am using the stock spur gear and need to be around 2.8 fdr and this isn't fitting.

Do you have any spacers under the ball studs on the front arms in the back where it mounts to the servo holder?

From the setup sheet it looks like you are not using the front battery posts/upper deck holders. Is this for easier battery removal or does this have a handling effect making it less stiff?
Use like an 88t 64 or maybe a 72t 48p the stock spur is pretty big for 21.5
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:01 PM   #1091
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Originally Posted by Travis S View Post
Ed,
I am about 90% done with my build and wiring for my new SP-1 and was going to try your setup. I am running into an issue with fitting the motor/pinion however. Did you have to mod the holes on the motor/pod plate for the pinion to fit. I am using the stock spur gear and need to be around 2.8 fdr and this isn't fitting.
I'm using an 86T Kimborough Spur, as these also mean you can run a large number of balls, so still keeping a smooth diff. You might have to ream out a little material from the centre hole though, as they can be a tight fit on the axle.

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Do you have any spacers under the ball studs on the front arms in the back where it mounts to the servo holder?
At the moment, no. The front upper arm shims are something I've been playing around with a fair bit, and have tended to prefer having a slightly higher front compared to rear. Normally end up 1mm front, 0mm rear (so as kit). This is even with the lower arms raised for correct ride height. Putting shims under the rear ball makes the steering too aggressive, IMO.

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From the setup sheet it looks like you are not using the front battery posts/upper deck holders. Is this for easier battery removal or does this have a handling effect making it less stiff?
This is just a flex thing, based on advice from Robk. I do keep meaning to play with this setting some more.. But so far find too many other things to tweak! :P

HiH
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:32 PM   #1092
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I'm guessing this is Brendon? Yeah, car was pretty good, although couldn't get close to Rob, but I think that went for the rest of the field. I think I spent too much time trying to get the car perfect, rather than just drive it!

As for the ride height, as metalnut said, add shims under the arms. I currently have 4mm under (instead of the kit 2mm), to give 5mm ride height with Pit 571's, and the kit front springs. I've also added 3mm of shims under the steering posts to help remove some of the bump steer when using the higher arms.

HiH
Ed
Ed, saw pics on your site about moving the front rack higher in the car. Did you get to try it out? Any updates? About to purchase one for my F1 collection.
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:49 PM   #1093
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This is just a flex thing, based on advice from Robk. I do keep meaning to play with this setting some more.. But so far find too many other things to tweak! :P

HiH
Ed
As the you add or remove posts, or use a more forward or backward position, you change the way the car will act. All the posts locked down will actually kill a lot of rotation/steering mid corner and calm the car. Less posts usually result in a car that will rotate more but may feel less reactive off center, also may feel like it wanders a bit. This is accentuated if you were to use only the back posts. Using only the front posts would feel more like the car with all posts locked down.

This usually becomes more sensitive on carpet, but it is pretty much the same on any surface. Also a car that is not stiff enough front to back can get a "long" feeling like you a driving a limo. The car may be "taco"-ing on corner entry. This is a cue to stiffen the top deck or use a stiffer chassis. The opposite occurs when you use a really stiff chassis or a full length top deck - instant steering off center. This is not torsional stiffness. You could twist the car like a pretzel side to side, but if it is stiff front to back it will be reactive.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:48 PM   #1094
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I followed the speed passion track width setting guide pdf on their website and it gave me perfect front ride height for pit tires.


I am having a weird issue where when I am running and I turn the wheels they never return to the same center every time, any idea's other than servo, which I am going to replace just in case?
Other than what's noted I would most likely look into the servo. Even with a slight bind in a F1 car servos are generally strong enough to return/push past and return to center.

That is unless something major is binding. In that case, just disconnect your servo arm and swing the wheels back and forth to determine if that's the case.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:20 PM   #1095
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Me - "I think it's 'taco-ing' under weight transfer and it's driving 'long' in the corners".

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