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Old 04-03-2014, 10:42 AM   #1051
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You are not going to find front knuckles / uprights right now, and really you don't want to as the new better faster stronger ones are coming soon
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Old 04-03-2014, 11:33 AM   #1052
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You are not going to find front knuckles / uprights right now, and really you don't want to as the new better faster stronger ones are coming soon
I really hope that "soon" is mid April as stated. I've been lucky (knock on wood) and haven't broken one in a few weeks, but I only have a few spares if I do. I think I figured out my steering issues, so assuming I fixed them, I'd like to keep the car for the summer at least. But man, asphalt tracks are so unforgiving, I really hope we have parts support.
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Old 04-03-2014, 11:36 AM   #1053
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You are not going to find front knuckles / uprights right now, and really you don't want to as the new better faster stronger ones are coming soon
Hope they don't cost 6 millions dollars....
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:03 AM   #1054
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For the first time in a while, had a good meeting with my SP-1, although the day didn't start out so great...

I've been struggling for a bit with the car, trying to achieve a good compromise between high speed and low speed... It had gotten to the point where I was pretty sure that there was something pretty fundamentally wrong with the setup.

Anyway, we had the first round of the SE Queensland this past weekend at what I call my local track, and the one I've practised most at. The main difference was running in the daytime instead of at night, so track conditions were different.

In practise the car was better than it had been, mainly as I'd given it a full rebuild during the week, and reverted to more of a base setup, at least on the rear of the car. Whilst it was an improvement, it was still obvious that it was steering too much at high speed, whilst also being unstable at low, although some of this could be attributed to the much lower level of grip in the track.

For Q1 I left the car as is, with just wanting to put a round in and then start trying to make it better. TQ'd the round, but it was hard work, and I knew that racing it for 15minutes in the final without a mistake was going to be impossible.
Q1 results

For Q2, I threw a couple of changes at the car. Reduced the front camber and took out 0.5mm of pod droop. Both these made the car worse. It was still nervous on centre, but also lacking steering in the middle of the turns, so no improvement .
Q2 Results

In Q3 I went for my first make or break of the day. Threw a brand new set of 571/572 Pits at it, whilst also making some change for what I would expect the tyres to give (knowing that the 572's free up the rear a lot compared to the ride R1's I normally use). And... It was a break steering was certainly improved compared to Q2, but it wasn't as quick as I was expecting. Surprisingly, seemed to lack corner speed, and forward bite, making getting on throttle a gingerly affair..so consistency suffered as well, and I ended up flipping on a kurb and ending up as a dnf after the lower ball pulled out of the front arm.
Q3 results

All this left me 3rd on the grid with little confidence I would be able to duke it out for the win. So, took a huge swing at the settings, going back to R1 rears (albeit a new set), changing the front upper arm spacers (leaving 2mm under the front ball, but going to 0mm from 2.5mm under the rear), less Ackerman shims, softer side springs (Tamiya RM01 copper), and softer roll damper (Tamiya soft grease). I did briefly get a chance to run the car before the final, and it was night and day difference. Well balanced, good corner speed, and above all, consistent, even in the lower grip of the afternoon with more heat in the track.

And so onto the 15min final... Actually not much to report, with the exception that I almost didn't make the start after I drove up the back of a parked car on the grid, popping off the upper arm and pulling out the lower ball again. Managed to pop them all back in though, but didn't leave a lot of time to get ready for the start.
Despite the pre-race excitement, got into second off the line, and then passed the leader on lap 2 and was never headed. Eventually managed to lap the field, and with a race time that I was quite impressed with. Fastest lap was a tenth better than I managed all day, and this was despite the track dropping off by around 2-3/10ths from qual. Even better was a cons of 0.37 for the 15mins, despite being careful with traffic the whole time. A good improvement from earlier in the day! Talk about pulling it out when it matters
Final results

Certainly feel a lot happier with the car now, and a decent base setting. I am going to revisit the 572 rears later in the cooler nights, as there seems to be something to be found with them, if I can improve the consistency.

Anyway, setup is here;
EC - SEQ Interclub 2014 Rnd1

Things to note on it are;
  • Front ride height is set with 1mm under the plate (kit) and 4.5mm under the arms.
  • Width is in 190mm setup, mainly as the Ride rear have a different offset and are wider compared to Pits. Hence also no need for axle shims with the Rides.
  • Steering rack is raised 3mm to improve bump steer, but otherwise as kit, including 1mm Ackerman shim.
  • Servo is mounted with the spline vertical, and the horn flat so as to remove angle issues with the drag link. Same setup as seen here. Also helps hold the battery in place better
  • Using carbon reinforced side links and front hubs, plus carbon battery brace, and v2 left rear axle hub
  • As mentioned above, settled on front upper arm inner shims as 2mm front, 0mm rear.

Regards
Ed
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:30 PM   #1055
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Front arm and updated steering upright has been instock for a week now.....check out F1 Paint Lab (Brad), TQ RC Racing, Stormer and of course SP site....
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:35 PM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
For the first time in a while, had a good meeting with my SP-1, although the day didn't start out so great...

I've been struggling for a bit with the car, trying to achieve a good compromise between high speed and low speed... It had gotten to the point where I was pretty sure that there was something pretty fundamentally wrong with the setup.

Anyway, we had the first round of the SE Queensland this past weekend at what I call my local track, and the one I've practised most at. The main difference was running in the daytime instead of at night, so track conditions were different.

In practise the car was better than it had been, mainly as I'd given it a full rebuild during the week, and reverted to more of a base setup, at least on the rear of the car. Whilst it was an improvement, it was still obvious that it was steering too much at high speed, whilst also being unstable at low, although some of this could be attributed to the much lower level of grip in the track.

For Q1 I left the car as is, with just wanting to put a round in and then start trying to make it better. TQ'd the round, but it was hard work, and I knew that racing it for 15minutes in the final without a mistake was going to be impossible.
Q1 results

For Q2, I threw a couple of changes at the car. Reduced the front camber and took out 0.5mm of pod droop. Both these made the car worse. It was still nervous on centre, but also lacking steering in the middle of the turns, so no improvement .
Q2 Results

In Q3 I went for my first make or break of the day. Threw a brand new set of 571/572 Pits at it, whilst also making some change for what I would expect the tyres to give (knowing that the 572's free up the rear a lot compared to the ride R1's I normally use). And... It was a break steering was certainly improved compared to Q2, but it wasn't as quick as I was expecting. Surprisingly, seemed to lack corner speed, and forward bite, making getting on throttle a gingerly affair..so consistency suffered as well, and I ended up flipping on a kurb and ending up as a dnf after the lower ball pulled out of the front arm.
Q3 results

All this left me 3rd on the grid with little confidence I would be able to duke it out for the win. So, took a huge swing at the settings, going back to R1 rears (albeit a new set), changing the front upper arm spacers (leaving 2mm under the front ball, but going to 0mm from 2.5mm under the rear), less Ackerman shims, softer side springs (Tamiya RM01 copper), and softer roll damper (Tamiya soft grease). I did briefly get a chance to run the car before the final, and it was night and day difference. Well balanced, good corner speed, and above all, consistent, even in the lower grip of the afternoon with more heat in the track.

And so onto the 15min final... Actually not much to report, with the exception that I almost didn't make the start after I drove up the back of a parked car on the grid, popping off the upper arm and pulling out the lower ball again. Managed to pop them all back in though, but didn't leave a lot of time to get ready for the start.
Despite the pre-race excitement, got into second off the line, and then passed the leader on lap 2 and was never headed. Eventually managed to lap the field, and with a race time that I was quite impressed with. Fastest lap was a tenth better than I managed all day, and this was despite the track dropping off by around 2-3/10ths from qual. Even better was a cons of 0.37 for the 15mins, despite being careful with traffic the whole time. A good improvement from earlier in the day! Talk about pulling it out when it matters
Final results

Certainly feel a lot happier with the car now, and a decent base setting. I am going to revisit the 572 rears later in the cooler nights, as there seems to be something to be found with them, if I can improve the consistency.

Anyway, setup is here;
EC - SEQ Interclub 2014 Rnd1

Things to note on it are;
  • Front ride height is set with 1mm under the plate (kit) and 4.5mm under the arms.
  • Width is in 190mm setup, mainly as the Ride rear have a different offset and are wider compared to Pits. Hence also no need for axle shims with the Rides.
  • Steering rack is raised 3mm to improve bump steer, but otherwise as kit, including 1mm Ackerman shim.
  • Servo is mounted with the spline vertical, and the horn flat so as to remove angle issues with the drag link. Same setup as seen here. Also helps hold the battery in place better
  • Using carbon reinforced side links and front hubs, plus carbon battery brace, and v2 left rear axle hub
  • As mentioned above, settled on front upper arm inner shims as 2mm front, 0mm rear.

Regards
Ed
Ed...thanks for the setup, I would like to try it myself for the summer outdoor season. My setup was mainly very lack of steering and getting more steering does help the lap time, especially on SP1...

Are you the same ED that won the TITC F1 3 (2012) years ago..?
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:22 PM   #1057
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Ed...thanks for the setup, I would like to try it myself for the summer outdoor season. My setup was mainly very lack of steering and getting more steering does help the lap time, especially on SP1...

Are you the same ED that won the TITC F1 3 (2012) years ago..?
Hey Howard,

No problem on the setup. I do know it's a little odd because of the mis-matched tyres, believe me I would much prefer to be running the same types front and rear, but that combo is really what seems to work out here. Also bare in mind that Aus runs to loose width rules (anything up to 205mm) hence why I have it setup in 190mm config, rather than 185.

Had a brief discussion with Rob K about the settings, and on reflection, one of the big tuning parts that have helped to sort my car out has been the shimming of the front upper arms. There is quite a bit of time to be found, IMO, playing around with shimming both the front and rear balls, to see what works best. This is something I for sure will be revisiting in the future, even if to just confirm what does what

As for your other question... Yes, it is

Cheers
Ed
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:06 PM   #1058
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hey Howard,

No problem on the setup. I do know it's a little odd because of the mis-matched tyres, believe me I would much prefer to be running the same types front and rear, but that combo is really what seems to work out here. Also bare in mind that Aus runs to loose width rules (anything up to 205mm) hence why I have it setup in 190mm config, rather than 185.

Had a brief discussion with Rob K about the settings, and on reflection, one of the big tuning parts that have helped to sort my car out has been the shimming of the front upper arms. There is quite a bit of time to be found, IMO, playing around with shimming both the front and rear balls, to see what works best. This is something I for sure will be revisiting in the future, even if to just confirm what does what

As for your other question... Yes, it is

Cheers
Ed
Great....that was a good time, as every year except this year (I have to cut short for the race because they were threatened to shut down the airport...)

I will definitely try your tire combo and setup for outdoor racing this year....my only problem on SP1 was always the lack of steering...especially off power push.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:34 PM   #1059
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Great....that was a good time, as every year except this year (I have to cut short for the race because they were threatened to shut down the airport...)

I will definitely try your tire combo and setup for outdoor racing this year....my only problem on SP1 was always the lack of steering...especially off power push.
Not running a SP1 myself though I have found running Pit 571 front with Ride R1's in the back has always worked extremely well for me. Maybe its an Australian thing.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:49 AM   #1060
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Not running a SP1 myself though I have found running Pit 571 front with Ride R1's in the back has always worked extremely well for me. Maybe its an Australian thing.
Well....I just need some 80s temperature hitting USA, then I will try that setup....thanks.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:59 AM   #1061
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Any idea can R1 tire (REAR) can be mounted onto the Tamiya foam rim..? Or R1 need the Tamiya rubber tires rim or the Ride rim only? Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:52 PM   #1062
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Any idea can R1 tire (REAR) can be mounted onto the Tamiya foam rim..? Or R1 need the Tamiya rubber tires rim or the Ride rim only? Thanks.
Ride rims only , it's not the same size than the tamiya (foam or rubber rims)
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:16 PM   #1063
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571 vs. 574 fronts, both are listed as soft. What's the difference?

I'm gonna be running on prepped outdoor asphalt with a big range in temps, including running in the wet.

I'm seeing 571/572 as the most common tires to run with the 574 front being an option. All this still my best route to go?
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:42 PM   #1064
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571 vs. 574 fronts, both are listed as soft. What's the difference?

I'm gonna be running on prepped outdoor asphalt with a big range in temps, including running in the wet.

I'm seeing 571/572 as the most common tires to run with the 574 front being an option. All this still my best route to go?
A long time ago I asked the same question...but actually, when they said SOFT, it meant the SIDE WALL stiffness, not the compound of the tires itself.

I was also told...571/572 is the ideal setup for outdoor, and 574/575 is actually for indoor carpet. So if you are running outdoor asphalt, 571 is your tires choice....and you should considered the 571 with the Ride R1 rear as ED mentioned above that works really good. I am going to try that as I found 571/572 is good but I can use alot more steering.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:42 PM   #1065
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Ride rims only , it's not the same size than the tamiya (foam or rubber rims)
So RIDE tires must use RIDE rim....ok, THANKS.
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