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Old 02-03-2014, 11:35 AM   #931
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Congratulation to Fernando Gordinho and Jim Piersol to bring the SPEED PASSION SP1 F1 to the A-main of Snowbird....well done guys.
Thanks Solara. I struggled thru qualifying due to steering block breakage. This was the first time I had run open tires on the car, and it took some time to make a few small adjustmenst. It wasn't until the open practice session before the A main that I had a chance to do any tuning on the car. In the main, the car was very good. I started 10th on the grid, so had little chance to contend. I managed to make it up to 5th and was real happy with the car at the end. No doubt that if I had started closer to the front, we would have contended for the win.

Two ideas for preventing steering block breakage. First, if you replace the nut on the bottom side of the steering link with a short stand-off, it will prevent the steering block from getting torqued so far during a crash. I believe this will minimize the amount of pillow balls pulling thru the blocks. If you look at the front end, without the stand-offs, the wheel can really get torqued which puts a ton of side pressure on the pillow ball, which results in it popping out. I put the stand-offs on my car at the Birds and did not damage the pillow ball the remaining runs I had on the car (about 5 runs).

Another option that will soon be available, will be to use CRC steering blocks. The standard CRC steering block will bolt directly on the SP-1 using the SP1 pillow ball and king-pin. You will need the new CRC F-1 axles to go into the steering block though. The axles should be avail soon. I was worried about breaking in the main at the Birds, so I went ahead and made this conversion just to be safe. It worked equally as well.

For anyone interested here is the highlights of my setup:

Kit side springs
30K in damper tube
.020" front springs (slightly firmer then stock)
5 deg castor
1.5 deg camber
Tires: Pit 571 & 572. Front sidewall super glued up to ridge on sidewall.
doped 3/4 front and full rear.
Thunder power 21.5. 35 deg timing. geared 31/88
Tamiya F60 front and rear wings

All stock plastics except for steering blocks.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:39 AM   #932
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Originally Posted by jrp View Post
Thanks Solara. I struggled thru qualifying due to steering block breakage. This was the first time I had run open tires on the car, and it took some time to make a few small adjustmenst. It wasn't until the open practice session before the A main that I had a chance to do any tuning on the car. In the main, the car was very good. I started 10th on the grid, so had little chance to contend. I managed to make it up to 5th and was real happy with the car at the end. No doubt that if I had started closer to the front, we would have contended for the win.

Two ideas for preventing steering block breakage. First, if you replace the nut on the bottom side of the steering link with a short stand-off, it will prevent the steering block from getting torqued so far during a crash. I believe this will minimize the amount of pillow balls pulling thru the blocks. If you look at the front end, without the stand-offs, the wheel can really get torqued which puts a ton of side pressure on the pillow ball, which results in it popping out. I put the stand-offs on my car at the Birds and did not damage the pillow ball the remaining runs I had on the car (about 5 runs).

Another option that will soon be available, will be to use CRC steering blocks. The standard CRC steering block will bolt directly on the SP-1 using the SP1 pillow ball and king-pin. You will need the new CRC F-1 axles to go into the steering block though. The axles should be avail soon. I was worried about breaking in the main at the Birds, so I went ahead and made this conversion just to be safe. It worked equally as well.

For anyone interested here is the highlights of my setup:

Kit side springs
30K in damper tube
.020" front springs (slightly firmer then stock)
5 deg castor
1.5 deg camber
Tires: Pit 571 & 572. Front sidewall super glued up to ridge on sidewall.
doped 3/4 front and full rear.
Thunder power 21.5. 35 deg timing. geared 31/88
Tamiya F60 front and rear wings

All stock plastics except for steering blocks.
Jim.....please check your PM, just send you soemthing

And, if possible, see you can post your CRC conversion picture here to share with others....a solution is better then no solution. It is a very bad time to bring out REVISION as of right now we are going thru Chinese new year and usually these worker will not work for WEEKS.....so a alternate solution is still better then nothing.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:42 AM   #933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp View Post
Kit side springs
30K in damper tube
.020" front springs (slightly firmer then stock)
5 deg castor
1.5 deg camber
Tires: Pit 571 & 572. Front sidewall super glued up to ridge on sidewall.
doped 3/4 front and full rear.
Thunder power 21.5. 35 deg timing. geared 31/88
Tamiya F60 front and rear wings

All stock plastics except for steering blocks.
What about the top shock/spring setup? All kit?
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:44 AM   #934
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What about the top shock/spring setup? All kit?
Yes, bone stock. Spring/oil/position
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:58 AM   #935
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Jim.....please check your PM, just send you soemthing

And, if possible, see you can post your CRC conversion picture here to share with others....a solution is better then no solution. It is a very bad time to bring out REVISION as of right now we are going thru Chinese new year and usually these worker will not work for WEEKS.....so a alternate solution is still better then nothing.
pics attached
Attached Thumbnails
Speed Passion brand new F1 car - The SP1-20140203_124757-resized-500-1-.jpg   Speed Passion brand new F1 car - The SP1-20140203_124846-resized-500.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:03 PM   #936
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Originally Posted by jrp View Post
Two ideas for preventing steering block breakage. First, if you replace the nut on the bottom side of the steering link with a short stand-off, it will prevent the steering block from getting torqued so far during a crash. I believe this will minimize the amount of pillow balls pulling thru the blocks. If you look at the front end, without the stand-offs, the wheel can really get torqued which puts a ton of side pressure on the pillow ball, which results in it popping out. I put the stand-offs on my car at the Birds and did not damage the pillow ball the remaining runs I had on the car (about 5 runs).
So...that standoff (about like 20mm long?) does limited the steering angle and prevent the steering block to pull all the way to the left or right..? Is that the function about that standoff? Kinda like a steering limiter?
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:50 PM   #937
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Hello,guys. I'm planning to buy SP1. Where do you get spares for it?
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:57 PM   #938
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Hello,guys. I'm planning to buy SP1. Where do you get spares for it?
Just get it from the shop you get the car as most shop and the SP own online shop carry the spare parts and options.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:58 PM   #939
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Just get it from the shop you get the car as most shop and the SP own online shop carry the spare parts and options.
Rc-mushroom doesn't have spare parts for it, but it have kit with very good price - that's why I asked
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:16 AM   #940
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Get spares from F1rclab, Speed Passion direct and TQRcRacing
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:47 AM   #941
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I've been getting a lot of help in the main F1 thread, but I do have a setup question specific to the SP-1 with 571/572 tires. What are the effects of the spacers on the kingpin above and below the lower arm?

The 185mm setup guide says to use 3mm of spacers above the lower arm and 1.5mm below (so 1.5mm below the spring). I have the 3mm above, but I only used the .5mm spacer below. How are these spacers used as a tuning guide?

In addition, what does the front spring preload do in this case? I have my set to 3mm between the lower arm and the .5mm spacer, measured on the outside. I'm used to setting ride height and tweak on TC cars using the preload adjuster, I'm clueless as to what it does here if shims under the lower arms and lower arm plate are used for ride height setting.

Thanks for putting up with my questions, you guys have been super helpful!
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:25 AM   #942
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The kingpin spacers between the lower arm and steering block look like they are there for down travel (droop) limiting. The spacer below the spring is there to remove extra space on the kingpin and helps for setting preload so the kingpin doesn't ride up into the pillow ball. Right now with my car fully loaded with 3 spacers up and one below and preload balanced on both sides, I have about .5 mm between the steering block and the 3 spacers wheels on the ground. FYI, I ignored the recommended setting in the manual and looked at how my CRC pan car is set up for preload and droop. As a test, when I lift the nose of the car up, both front tires come off the bench at the same time. Note: The F104 front end also has droop settings, but instead of spacers, there is a hole in the lower arm for a screw. Both ways accomplish the same thing, limiting droop and down travel.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:26 PM   #943
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Can't explain it better...thanks John.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:12 PM   #944
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Spacers between the knuckle and lower arm also change the angle of the upper arm which affects camber gain.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:43 AM   #945
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The kingpin spacers between the lower arm and steering block look like they are there for down travel (droop) limiting. The spacer below the spring is there to remove extra space on the kingpin and helps for setting preload so the kingpin doesn't ride up into the pillow ball. Right now with my car fully loaded with 3 spacers up and one below and preload balanced on both sides, I have about .5 mm between the steering block and the 3 spacers wheels on the ground. FYI, I ignored the recommended setting in the manual and looked at how my CRC pan car is set up for preload and droop. As a test, when I lift the nose of the car up, both front tires come off the bench at the same time. Note: The F104 front end also has droop settings, but instead of spacers, there is a hole in the lower arm for a screw. Both ways accomplish the same thing, limiting droop and down travel.
Thank you for that explanation!

So then the front spring preload doesn't really do anything? I say that since changing the proload doesn't change the spring rate... so would you even use that for tuning?
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