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Old 12-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #826
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Thanks for posting that Solara. I am amazed at how well the car drives right out of the box. The only thing on my car that wasn't stock/kit was the side links. I used tamiya links with stock SP balls. I would have used the new plastic links but I didn't have them yet.

Car is very capable in anyone's hands. Great ride for a under $200 kit!
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #827
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Thanks for posting that carpet setup. So, my car is now slightly different from that, as I'm going to try the angled-inwards side links with slightly softer side springs. I'm hoping I don't regret that decision, as we have a big race coming up.

Also, I noticed he's running 3* front camber and trailing the front axles, interesting.. I assume both give more steering?
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:32 PM   #828
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Wow that's a lot of camber...I didn't even consider running that much previously. Might just have to try that out.
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #829
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that was more camber then I had previously been running, on a lower bite track. Cars were very pushy and had no traction-roll tendencies until the last day of the race. My car traction rolled for the first time in the last race of the weekend. It did it in same corner 2 or 3 times before I changed my line in that corner. Later in run it had no issues and could be driven very hard. Still pushy by my standards, but good enough to get the job done on that weekend.
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:43 PM   #830
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Something else to note was that we were running the Pardus tires. They are very different then others like Pits.
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:30 PM   #831
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Quote:
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Thanks for posting that Solara. I am amazed at how well the car drives right out of the box. The only thing on my car that wasn't stock/kit was the side links. I used tamiya links with stock SP balls. I would have used the new plastic links but I didn't have them yet.

Car is very capable in anyone's hands. Great ride for a under $200 kit!
You did good...and looking forward for more setup and winning from you.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:35 PM   #832
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What spur gears fit the SP-1?
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:18 AM   #833
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what the different between low nose and high nose shell ???
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:46 AM   #834
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So I got to test the SP-1 today after throwing all of the aluminum parts on it (185mm setup with Pit tires), as well as angling the side links inward. I used the "pink" Tamiya side springs, which are a little softer than the silver ones, to compensate.

The car felt good overall. I was testing it out not on the track I race it on, but one with a much tighter layout. I had to increase my dual rate from 60% that I usually run to 80-90% to be able to make the corners, so I want to say the car was pushing a bit. But it could have been the tighter layout requiring more actual steering. I'll find out for sure Saturday when I'm back on the normal track.

However, in theory.. if the car is pushing.. and the changes are 185mm front (from the 190 stock), inward side links with pink Tamiya side springs (stock SP front springs)... what would I want to do first?

Two things I can think of:
* Increase front camber from 1* to 2*
* Change front springs from kit to Tamiya silver, which I think are softer

What I don't know is what the side spring and side damper can do for me in this situation. Would going to harder side springs give me less or more steering?

Damn pan cars
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:48 AM   #835
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Quote:
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What spur gears fit the SP-1?
I've been running 64p Xenon gears. I realized just recently that you have to shave a little bit of plastic from the inside, or else it will bind on the drive shaft and cause an initial tension before the ball diff can spin. Otherwise they work great. Look earlier in this thread for other suggestions.
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:51 AM   #836
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stiffer side springs make the car more agile when changing direction , but gives you less rear grip

stiffen the lateral damper gives you more front grip, but makes the car lazy when changing direction.

it's all about compromising
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
So I got to test the SP-1 today after throwing all of the aluminum parts on it (185mm setup with Pit tires), as well as angling the side links inward. I used the "pink" Tamiya side springs, which are a little softer than the silver ones, to compensate.

The car felt good overall. I was testing it out not on the track I race it on, but one with a much tighter layout. I had to increase my dual rate from 60% that I usually run to 80-90% to be able to make the corners, so I want to say the car was pushing a bit. But it could have been the tighter layout requiring more actual steering. I'll find out for sure Saturday when I'm back on the normal track.

However, in theory.. if the car is pushing.. and the changes are 185mm front (from the 190 stock), inward side links with pink Tamiya side springs (stock SP front springs)... what would I want to do first?

Two things I can think of:
* Increase front camber from 1* to 2*
* Change front springs from kit to Tamiya silver, which I think are softer

What I don't know is what the side spring and side damper can do for me in this situation. Would going to harder side springs give me less or more steering?

Damn pan cars
Which caster setting?
How big a spacer on the caster plate for the upper arm?
What tube lube?
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #838
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Which caster setting?
How big a spacer on the caster plate for the upper arm?
What tube lube?
10* caster, 3mm spacer on the caster plate and 1mm spacer on the servo plates, using 10K AE diff fluid in the side damper.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:02 PM   #839
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All hardened parts, carbon battery holder, aluminum caster block all in place. One last steering mod finally had to be done. I have my servo horizontal, so I had to cut the bridge on the front upper plate to move it further forward to stop the linkage from binding up. Then I noticed the left turn throw was being blocked by the lower front arm. So I cut off the linkage mount on the steering rack, then ran a 13 mm set screw in place of the screw that normally goes through the bearing. I put on 3 mm of spacers, a plain 3 mm jam nut and Tamiya 4.8 threaded ball on the set screw. Now my linkage is parallel to the steering rack and at 100% on the radio, I have no binding issues and no interference problems with the lower arm. Can't wait to try it out.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:09 PM   #840
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I just noticed that my steering has been compromised by the 185mm conversion, since I didn't realize I also needed the aluminum bell crank piece. That piece has an offset servo linkage stud location, which the stock plastic does not. So, my assembly was hitting the lower right arm and thus greatly limiting my left turns. So, for now I shaved the inside of the lower arm a bit, but I'll be ordering the aluminum steering piece. We'll see how it goes on Saturday.
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