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Old 12-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #811
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How exactly? So, I'm finally putting my carbon battery holder on, and I have the grub screws... am I supposed to just force-thread them into the side holes? If so, I don't feel that's a very strong way to hold the springs, a small side impact will rip them out. Or am I missing something obvious here?
It will be fine...I have mine for about 6 months with X amount of crash including with some 1/8th....that part never expose to the impact.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:12 AM   #812
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How exactly? So, I'm finally putting my carbon battery holder on, and I have the grub screws... am I supposed to just force-thread them into the side holes? If so, I don't feel that's a very strong way to hold the springs, a small side impact will rip them out. Or am I missing something obvious here?
Yes...that is how most pan cars are. If the fit on the grub screws wasn't tight then the car would constantly need readjusting every time it hit something. Just make sure you thread them in straight.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:47 AM   #813
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It will be fine...I have mine for about 6 months with X amount of crash including with some 1/8th....that part never expose to the impact.
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Yes...that is how most pan cars are. If the fit on the grub screws wasn't tight then the car would constantly need readjusting every time it hit something. Just make sure you thread them in straight.
You guys are forgetting that I'm the guy who had his SP side springs crushed from a side impact on a straight. I spun out and got t-boned, breaking the side links as well. Call it bad driving, call it bad luck.

For now the button head screws work for me since I'm using the outside holes. I want to test running the links on an inward angle. It feels like the side-to-side tension is higher, which would make sense given the the springs are further out. I'll see how the car handles next week.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:07 PM   #814
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This may be an obvious question, but can anyone tell me if the SP-1 shares the diff rings with any other, more popular platform? I rebuilt my ball diff today (after a stripped spur) and had to flip the rings to the other, fresh side, as old side is already lumpy. I know I can sand them, but time vs. money I'd rather just buy new rings. Thanks!

Edit: crap, looks like it may be the diff balls that god damaged, as I still have a lumpy ball diff after a full rebuild (and having flipped the rings to the fresh side). I guess it's time for new balls too, but my above question stands.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:22 PM   #815
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All my new aluminum goodies came in yesterday Hope to find some time tonight to put them in
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:33 AM   #816
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Metalnut: make sure it isn't the thrust washer setup that is causing the gravelly feel
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:51 AM   #817
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The CRC Gen-X has two positions for the side springs. When using the outside position you use a softer spring to get a similar roll resistance. The car feels smoother and many of us run them that way. Also if you need more roll resistance but don't have a stiffer spring (and you are on the inside position) use the outer position.
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:56 AM   #818
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All my new aluminum goodies came in yesterday Hope to find some time tonight to put them in
Mine arrive tomorrow with long awaited spares.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:19 AM   #819
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
This may be an obvious question, but can anyone tell me if the SP-1 shares the diff rings with any other, more popular platform? I rebuilt my ball diff today (after a stripped spur) and had to flip the rings to the other, fresh side, as old side is already lumpy. I know I can sand them, but time vs. money I'd rather just buy new rings. Thanks!

Edit: crap, looks like it may be the diff balls that god damaged, as I still have a lumpy ball diff after a full rebuild (and having flipped the rings to the fresh side). I guess it's time for new balls too, but my above question stands.
Tamiya v2/417 rings
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:36 AM   #820
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The CRC Gen-X has two positions for the side springs. When using the outside position you use a softer spring to get a similar roll resistance. The car feels smoother and many of us run them that way. Also if you need more roll resistance but don't have a stiffer spring (and you are on the inside position) use the outer position.
This is exactly what I was wondering, thank you for clearing this up for me!

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Metalnut: make sure it isn't the thrust washer setup that is causing the gravelly feel
One of the things I haven't learned yet is figuring out what causes the "dented" feeling in a ball diff. I spun the thrust bearing with pressure on it and it felt ok. The rings look smooth. The balls are hard to inspect but looked ok. Yet something feels like it's dented and thus the diff isn't smooth. So, I ordered new carbide balls from Avid RC, along with a ceramic ball bearing (the thrust one) and a new diff bearing (the bigger one). I'll change one at a time and see what fixes the lumpiness. I'm pretty OCD about correctly setting the diff and it felt smooth before the dis-assembly. That's the weird part.

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Tamiya v2/417 rings
Great, thanks!
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #821
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This is exactly what I was wondering, thank you for clearing this up for me!



One of the things I haven't learned yet is figuring out what causes the "dented" feeling in a ball diff. I spun the thrust bearing with pressure on it and it felt ok. The rings look smooth. The balls are hard to inspect but looked ok. Yet something feels like it's dented and thus the diff isn't smooth. So, I ordered new carbide balls from Avid RC, along with a ceramic ball bearing (the thrust one) and a new diff bearing (the bigger one). I'll change one at a time and see what fixes the lumpiness. I'm pretty OCD about correctly setting the diff and it felt smooth before the dis-assembly. That's the weird part.

Great, thanks!
My SP1 has arrived... But is now wrapped up under the tree...

As for diff, these are the tips I've always followed on any ball diff, and come out silky smooth and easy to set. My 104 diff is like butter.

Diff rings - lightly sand both sides with 800grit wet to get the rings flat and polished. Punched out rings may not be fully flat out the packet, this is the best way to get them flat, and can also be used to polish up the rings.

Diff balls - take the carbide ones, and throw them in the bin. Ceramic balls only, last a long long time, and hugely resistant to flat spotting, so the diff can be set looser without slipping and gaining the notchy feeling (as you mention above, I would suggest it certainly is te balls that need replacing)

Thrust bearing - again, I would junk the standard type bearing, and put in a proper one piece thrust race. Looking at the bearing size, the Tamiya 103 thrust race will fit fine, just reverse the orientation of the cone washers ( like this )( not like this () ). Normal bearings are not designed to take side loads as the kit setup... Thrust races are.
Rob K has also recommended to switch out the spacer that the nut rests on for the Tamiya part, and I'll certainly be following that advice as well.

Greases - pack the thrust race the AE black stealth grease, and use Schumacher diff grease on the balls. IME these two are the best combo of greases to use for any ball diff.

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Old 12-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #822
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Default Another day of racing...

Should have sold a few more kits. Folks in this area are stoked for these cars.

Awesome day at the track, ran the chassis a bunch, fast, no breakage, no issues, just fun.

What tire wear?

oops, got my models mixed up...
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:56 PM   #823
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Should have sold a few more kits. Folks in this area are stoked for these cars.

Awesome day at the track, ran the chassis a bunch, fast, no breakage, no issues, just fun.

What tire wear?

oops, got my models mixed up...
The F1 car is not bad either...
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:39 AM   #824
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Going to have one for sale next week if anyone is interested. I built it and it just sat next to my other F1's. New never ran. I'll post pictures later this week. Looking to get $120 shipped.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #825
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Jim winning setup at Indoor Carpet Champ....

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