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Old 11-29-2013, 07:03 PM   #796
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I've ran into the same problem with the AE ones. I had to tap those as well. Get yourself a 3mm tap anyway...there will be other times you will need it. The 3mm locknuts that I have seen from several brands lately have the nylon ring too small so they spin when trying to tighten down the football...just run a tap through those too and you will find assembling the car to be much easier.
I'm surprised you've seen the same issue with the AE ones, my were flawless. But, your tip on having a 3mm tap is a good one, I definitely need to get one for other uses.

Can't wait for my carbon and aluminum parts to show up. Not that there is anything wrong with the car out of the box, but we all like shiny bits and rebuilding perfectly functional cars, don't we?
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Old 11-29-2013, 07:33 PM   #797
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Would they be Part #: 4637 ?
What size hex are used on the ball?
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Old 11-30-2013, 01:49 AM   #798
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What size hex are used on the ball?
Edit: Wait... which ball? The AE? I think the top of the ball is actually 3mm.
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Last edited by metalnut; 12-01-2013 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:15 PM   #799
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First the bad news: I broke down during a first-place run in the A-Main last night when my motor backed off after I knicked a pipe. No idea how it did that, as I'm always OCD about my screws, but it did. It then shaved the tips of the spur gear, leaving behind some plastic dust. Doh. Would have been my first ever win.

The good news: I'm in the process of installing all the carbon-reinforced, carbon fiber and aluminum goodies I ordered. I just finished converting the front end to the 185mm setup, and I'm going to tackle the rear end next. I have to say, these are very nice!!! The pillow ball retainers went in butter smooth and as they should, while the metal lower pivot balls are a big improvement as well. Thanks SP!
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:55 PM   #800
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I was told from BRAD.....SP1 TQ and won the Cleveland Indoor Carpet champ, as well as 3-4 SP1 on the A-main.....well done. I know Rob King shared some of his setup there and I will have the setup post on here soon.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:43 PM   #801
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Does anyone have a complete list of parts i need to convert the front suspension of the SP1 to the Tamiya 104? Please HELP!
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:49 AM   #802
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Does anyone have a complete list of parts i need to convert the front suspension of the SP1 to the Tamiya 104? Please HELP!
I have to ask... why do you want to do that? I've seen other guys talk about doing this, but I just don't understand it. My SP-1 is running ahead of many Tamiyas at our track, and I'm still fairly new. What do you not like about the front end?
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:09 PM   #803
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Yeah sure. I will also list some alternatives.

Youll need:

plastic pieces...
tam51380 ( servo holder parts tree)
tam51381 ( f104 front a arm )

uprights, three different choices....
tam5325 ( these are the offset types)
tam54154 ( these come in the f104pro and f104 pro version2 )
tam54357 ( these are the hopup ones and are aluminum they also feature inline or trailing position) also expensive but worth it.

spring set...
tam50509

ball connectors...
tam50875 ( i cut mine down like 1.5 to 2mm and used my sp1's turnbuckles)

ball nuts...
tam53599 ( kit ball nuts are too small. )

option camber mount...
tam54202 ( gives you more options on camber degree, you can use the one that comes in the front a arm set but you wont have but 2 options of camber degree)

kingpins...
tam54160 ( hopup king pins)

suspension balls...
tam54161 ( hopup)

hardware...
tam19808240 ( 3.35mm screws counter sunk hex heads)
tam19804246 ( these shims go on the front steering axles)

eclips...
tam84177
This was posted earlier in the thread. Try not to be so lazy

Just playing devils advocate here, but the Tamiya front end does, arguably, look more "scalish". Some places have Tamiya parts more readily available, and not all of us care whether we win or not. So sometimes performance takes a back seat to other preferences. Also, there is less adjustability on the standard F104 front end, so that may be less intimidating to some.
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:47 PM   #804
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This was posted earlier in the thread. Try not to be so lazy

Just playing devils advocate here, but the Tamiya front end does, arguably, look more "scalish". Some places have Tamiya parts more readily available, and not all of us care whether we win or not. So sometimes performance takes a back seat to other preferences. Also, there is less adjustability on the standard F104 front end, so that may be less intimidating to some.
Valid points, and ones I can respect. Not a decision I would make, but I get it
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:09 PM   #805
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Simple,

thanks for the list. I must have not looked far back enough on the thread. The big problem I have with the SP1 here is that carbon reinforced parts are not available yet here in Malaysia, and the standard front arms don't like the tropical heat - they warp!!!. There are a couple of guys who run the SP1 here and all have the same feedback.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:08 PM   #806
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I've just received my carbon battery holder plate. Anyone got any idea what the two 10mm grub screws that are in the packet are for?

Replace the button head screws for the spring mounts
How exactly? So, I'm finally putting my carbon battery holder on, and I have the grub screws... am I supposed to just force-thread them into the side holes? If so, I don't feel that's a very strong way to hold the springs, a small side impact will rip them out. Or am I missing something obvious here?
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:47 AM   #807
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The holes seem to be pre-threaded. I also worried about breakage or the threads stripping, but actually the springs/holders/screws aren't that exposed to crash damage, certainly no more than on a TRF or Exotek chassis.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:04 AM   #808
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This is mine
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:16 AM   #809
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Originally Posted by zephuros View Post
Simple,

thanks for the list. I must have not looked far back enough on the thread. The big problem I have with the SP1 here is that carbon reinforced parts are not available yet here in Malaysia, and the standard front arms don't like the tropical heat - they warp!!!. There are a couple of guys who run the SP1 here and all have the same feedback.
HH brought in the new parts a couple of weeks ago
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:49 AM   #810
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This is mine
With that much of the grub screw sticking out on top, it's basically no different from using the button head screw, imho. For my install, since I'm using the outer holes of the battery holder which do not interfere with the side damper top deck, I just continued to use the button head screws. If I move the springs inward I may try the grub screws.
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