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Old 11-07-2013, 12:12 PM   #691
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Hmmmm....you will learn. But I think I should mention that on my write up before. Yes, that is one of the first thing I did...is to SAND, ROUND OFF alittle bit of carbon fiber material off that brace so the +/- plugs from the ESC/LIPO won't be able to touch each other...at least, even if 1 side of it touched, it won't connected across the whole series....

Lesson learned...I guess.

Yeah, I missed that part, it's totally my fault. I actually plan to sand my brace as I like the extra security it provides in holding both the battery and servo in place.

Solara, while I have your attention, can you explain what this part is for? http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...SP001134&c=CAR
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:10 PM   #692
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Yeah, I missed that part, it's totally my fault. I actually plan to sand my brace as I like the extra security it provides in holding both the battery and servo in place.

Solara, while I have your attention, can you explain what this part is for? http://www.speedpassion.net/en/produ...SP001134&c=CAR
This part, originally for our LeMan LM1 car because the rear wheel use a wider offset rim....so, if you are planning to spacer out the SP1, this adaptor is what you want because the rear rim will have a better grip to the HEX compare to the stock one came with it....
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:04 PM   #693
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How are you guys setting the front ride height? It's easy to adjust the rear, but what about the front? Most of the setup sheets I've seen list a ride height of 4mm front and rear. I built the car per the instructions using 1mm shims under the Lower Arm Plate and 2mm spacers under the Lower Arms. I'm running Shimizu tires on Tamiya wheels and my front ride height is 6.5mm. If I add shims under the Lower Arm Plate I'll have to cut the L and R servo mount. If I shim under the lower arms then the steering geometry is changed. What are you guys doing?

BTW, non of the setup sheets I've seen list the shim settings for front ride height either.

Thanks,
Jim

Oops! Ask questions first and then search; sorry, got that backwards. I found your information on ride height adjustments.

Thanks,
Jim

http://s146.photobucket.com/user/Opt...03a2e.jpg.html
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:11 PM   #694
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I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these. Without making me read 47 pages, is there anything that i need to order with this kit that will make it better? What wheel/tire combo would be a good start for a medium bite technical track?

I have to say it looks very trick, cant wait to get one!
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:20 PM   #695
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Pit 571/572 or 574 /575 ... 571/572 are more all around asphalt and carpet, 574 575 is better for carpet...with Tamiya FOAM tire rims


Carbon side links from Tamiya, which are direct fit. Or you can wait until the SpeedPassion parts arrive, which is very soon.

A variety of side springs and front springs. CRC, Associated and Tamiya all make a good range.

When the Speed Passion options show, the aluminum front bulk head and lower pivot balls will be important. The Front bulkhead allows you to get the front end to exactly 190mm without any drilling of plastic, and the lower balls will help the front end smoothness.

Otherwise, you don't need much. In fact you could just buy the tires and be done with it.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:48 PM   #696
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I'm posting some pictures for Nikko Rhino. They are shots of the bulkhead where a screw stripped out during his build. He said the screw stripped on initial installation. In one of the pictures you can see how the metal actually cracked on the bulkhead.
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Speed Passion brand new F1 car - The SP1-photo-1.jpg   Speed Passion brand new F1 car - The SP1-photo-2.jpg  
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #697
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
This part, originally for our LeMan LM1 car because the rear wheel use a wider offset rim....so, if you are planning to spacer out the SP1, this adaptor is what you want because the rear rim will have a better grip to the HEX compare to the stock one came with it....
Awesome! That's exactly what I was hoping for, thanks!
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:35 PM   #698
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The Front bulkhead allows you to get the front end to exactly 190mm without any drilling of plastic, and the lower balls will help the front end smoothness.
I read this before and tried to look at the car last night to figure out exactly how that will work. The lower arm mounting holes won't change, right? Just the front hole for the upper arms? How exactly will that bring the front wheels in enough to be 190mm wide? The way I'm seeing it, it'd just pull them in to give them more toe in and more camber, which you'd then have to adjust back using the steering links and pivot ball screws...

Apologies if I'm missing something obvious!
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #699
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Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
How are you guys setting the front ride height? It's easy to adjust the rear, but what about the front? Most of the setup sheets I've seen list a ride height of 4mm front and rear. I built the car per the instructions using 1mm shims under the Lower Arm Plate and 2mm spacers under the Lower Arms. I'm running Shimizu tires on Tamiya wheels and my front ride height is 6.5mm. If I add shims under the Lower Arm Plate I'll have to cut the L and R servo mount. If I shim under the lower arms then the steering geometry is changed. What are you guys doing?

BTW, non of the setup sheets I've seen list the shim settings for front ride height either.

Thanks,
Jim
Rather than cutting the servo mount...just space that up as well. I put my shims on the 4 screws under the suspension mount plate and the 2 screws under the servo mounts.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:28 PM   #700
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I read this before and tried to look at the car last night to figure out exactly how that will work. The lower arm mounting holes won't change, right? Just the front hole for the upper arms? How exactly will that bring the front wheels in enough to be 190mm wide? The way I'm seeing it, it'd just pull them in to give them more toe in and more camber, which you'd then have to adjust back using the steering links and pivot ball screws...

Apologies if I'm missing something obvious!
The new upper arm mount has 2 sets of holes so that the lower arms can be moved in to their narrowest setting. Yes when you do that you have to re-adjust camber and steering links. Technically you have to even trim a little off of the upper front suspension arm. The stock 190mm setting will put you at about 193mm if you use Pit Shimizu tires due to how the rubber over hangs the rim. The car was built to 190mm at the Tamiya rim edge so if your running the old Tamiya tires you will be at 190mm. So to get to 190mm with Pit Shimizu tires you have to go to the 185mm setting and space the wheels back out.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:30 PM   #701
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Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
Oops! Ask questions first and then search; sorry, got that backwards. I found your information on ride height adjustments.

Thanks,
Jim

http://s146.photobucket.com/user/Opt...03a2e.jpg.html
Its far easier just to shim up the servo mounts as well and not touch any of the other suspension shims. I shoe goo the servo to the chassis then use thin sero tape on the servo mounts so they are easier to move up and down and still provide support to the servo. Depending how much you go up you may find you need to move the ball stud on the servo horn up 1 hole as well.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:12 AM   #702
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The new upper arm mount has 2 sets of holes so that the lower arms can be moved in to their narrowest setting. Yes when you do that you have to re-adjust camber and steering links. Technically you have to even trim a little off of the upper front suspension arm. The stock 190mm setting will put you at about 193mm if you use Pit Shimizu tires due to how the rubber over hangs the rim. The car was built to 190mm at the Tamiya rim edge so if your running the old Tamiya tires you will be at 190mm. So to get to 190mm with Pit Shimizu tires you have to go to the 185mm setting and space the wheels back out.
Right, so, if you look here: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...F1_Trackwidth/

I'm currently using the "Type B" setup, which is 190mm, which gives you the 193mm width with Pit tires, BUT... I flipped my aluminum arm inserts the other way, so with the lines pointing in, which gives me just a tad more narrower setup. But, I'm still over 190 last time I checked.

You're suggesting the "Type A" setup, correct? If so, I think that would also require cutting/trimming of the vertical servo holders, so that the rear insert for the lower arms can be screwed into that inside chassis hole. For that reason, I think the aluminum servo mounts are out of the question. Of course I could be wrong here.
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:09 AM   #703
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Right...line in on the outside holes is the Type A setup. Line in on the inside holes is not measured so I don't know if that is more or less than line out on the inside hole. My guess is it is probably a bit wider than line out on the outside holes (Type B). For Type A you will have to trim the servo mounts a bit. I just timed mine to the mount hole. The aluminum servo mounts are pre-trimmed.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:21 AM   #704
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Finally finished up my dedicated indoor carpet setup SP1 with mix of options that I can gather plus new options parts....using Tresrey option parts (just RED looks cool) with full SP1 aluminum options, carbon rear battery brace/side springs mount.....I flipped the front alum insert (white bar pointing inside) and it narrowed the front end from 185mm to 182mm (very close to F104 spec). Using 574/575 Pit Z combo mounting 574 outside face inward. Using full length lipo instead of shorty...it seems to work better then shorty on carpet. Using Rob King latest indoor carpet setup with 6.25mm right height front and 4mm right height rear with long shock setting...

Brand new optional Speed Passion SP1 front and rear wings...rear wing are much wider then the F1 type. I never like it until they are mounted on the car, I think they are much cooler then the stock F1 type.

Full carbon reinforced plastic parts (yes, the side links are much thicker and stronger now..)....except re-using the stock soft plastic front arm set due to the carpet racing. The flex of the arm might be the reason why the SP1 can turn to much smoother and tighter...I will test the hardened version and see the difference...





Retrofit the F104 low motor mount wind deflector to the SP1 motor mount....2 minutes work. SP1 optional carbon fiber battery mount with side springs brace, setting on outside holes, link pointing inward on the main chassis. (Toe in setting...)



Brand new 1cell Reventon Pro V1.1 EX.....(also work on 2 cells). 18ga wires throughout.

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Old 11-11-2013, 09:46 AM   #705
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I see that the reinforced parts are now available in the Worldwide warehouse; except for the front arms. Any idea when these will become available?

Also, would an F104 football fit the SP-1?
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