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Old 09-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #556
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My manual shows 2mm under the arms. I left the shims under the arms the same and raised the plate and servo mount for ride height. That way the steering geometry didn't change.
In that case you also had to raise the servo mounts, correct?

If you look in the sidebar of the manual, they mention 1x2mm or 2x2mm shims under the lower arms. They describe it in terms of 200mm and 190mm widths respectively, though, which I don't fully understand either.

So much to learn
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:52 AM   #557
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Ok, one more late night question/observation. I've read a lot of discussion about the front 190mm setting being 2mm too wide when running Shimizu tires, hence a lot of crazy modifications. So, according to this chart, you get 190mm by using both "outside" holes, with the notches pointing out: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...F1_Trackwidth/

However, I used that outside holes and pointed the notches inward, which narrowed the width by almost 2mm. So, the 190mm setting, but with notches pointing inward the chassis.

So... am I crazy? What's wrong with my idea? Won't this give me very close to 190mm with Shimizu tires?
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:14 AM   #558
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Yes I raised the servo mounts as well but the servo I did not raise.
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:21 AM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
In that case you also had to raise the servo mounts, correct?

If you look in the sidebar of the manual, they mention 1x2mm or 2x2mm shims under the lower arms. They describe it in terms of 200mm and 190mm widths respectively, though, which I don't fully understand either.

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it's because in 200mm you are supose to use F103 tires wich are 3 or 4 mm smaller than the f104 in the front
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:53 AM   #560
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Nothing I did the same on mine to narrow the front up a touch

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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Ok, one more late night question/observation. I've read a lot of discussion about the front 190mm setting being 2mm too wide when running Shimizu tires, hence a lot of crazy modifications. So, according to this chart, you get 190mm by using both "outside" holes, with the notches pointing out: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spee...F1_Trackwidth/

However, I used that outside holes and pointed the notches inward, which narrowed the width by almost 2mm. So, the 190mm setting, but with notches pointing inward the chassis.

So... am I crazy? What's wrong with my idea? Won't this give me very close to 190mm with Shimizu tires?
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:12 PM   #561
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I see the site is back! So... I basically finished by kit build. I have two questions:

1. Are you guys seeing a lot of play in your shock around the two mounting ball studs? I know the shock goes in "upside down" due to the different size balls (4.7 and 4.3 if I recall), and will only mount one way. But.. even then, there is play around the balls. I know the idea is to not bind the shock, but it seems rather sloppy.

2. For those of you running shorty packs, are you running it fully forward, fully in the back, or somewhere in between? I have room to mount my ESC inline and I'm trying to decide where to put it. I'm thinking battery all the way forward, but that means removing both pieces of the upper deck to get it in there (not a huge problem). From what I've read, most F1s run it fully forward, but I wanted to check.

3. If I do run the ESC in the back, am I at all worried about the tweak the wires may introduce on the back pod? I'd be using 14ga wires, but they're still stiff enough to "press" down on the motor. I'm thinking of running them over the top of the rear shock brace.

Thanks!
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #562
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Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Hey guys, i am not sure if this was already posted
http://rcf1blog.blogspot.ca/2013/07/...sion-sp-1.html

What does moving the links at an angle do to make it "feel more planted"?
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My guess would be that it reduces rear steer inherent in any link style pan car suspension.
Correct
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:33 PM   #563
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I see the site is back! So... I basically finished by kit build. I have two questions:

1. Are you guys seeing a lot of play in your shock around the two mounting ball studs? I know the shock goes in "upside down" due to the different size balls (4.7 and 4.3 if I recall), and will only mount one way. But.. even then, there is play around the balls. I know the idea is to not bind the shock, but it seems rather sloppy.

2. For those of you running shorty packs, are you running it fully forward, fully in the back, or somewhere in between? I have room to mount my ESC inline and I'm trying to decide where to put it. I'm thinking battery all the way forward, but that means removing both pieces of the upper deck to get it in there (not a huge problem). From what I've read, most F1s run it fully forward, but I wanted to check.

3. If I do run the ESC in the back, am I at all worried about the tweak the wires may introduce on the back pod? I'd be using 14ga wires, but they're still stiff enough to "press" down on the motor. I'm thinking of running them over the top of the rear shock brace.

Thanks!
1. Yes I have a lot of play there too. You can probably use the bag trick to take up the slop but I'm not fond of that one on open ball cups. If you find something better let me know.

2. I run mine fully forward with the ESC in the back.

3. Use 16awg wire. Unless your running some really hot motor you don't need more than 16awg.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I see the site is back! So... I basically finished by kit build. I have two questions:

1. Are you guys seeing a lot of play in your shock around the two mounting ball studs? I know the shock goes in "upside down" due to the different size balls (4.7 and 4.3 if I recall), and will only mount one way. But.. even then, there is play around the balls. I know the idea is to not bind the shock, but it seems rather sloppy.

2. For those of you running shorty packs, are you running it fully forward, fully in the back, or somewhere in between? I have room to mount my ESC inline and I'm trying to decide where to put it. I'm thinking battery all the way forward, but that means removing both pieces of the upper deck to get it in there (not a huge problem). From what I've read, most F1s run it fully forward, but I wanted to check.

3. If I do run the ESC in the back, am I at all worried about the tweak the wires may introduce on the back pod? I'd be using 14ga wires, but they're still stiff enough to "press" down on the motor. I'm thinking of running them over the top of the rear shock brace.

Thanks!
1. I've never noticed but will check my my SP-1.

2. Fully forward w/ ESC behind.

3. I run this way and have no issues.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:50 AM   #565
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Another trick to narrow the front is to use a 5x10x3 bearing on the inside of the front wheel. This will narrow the front end another 2 mm. Make sure to use 1 shim on the inside of the axle or the wheel may bind on the steering hub.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:32 PM   #566
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Ok, time for me to start giving back to this thread. Two build tips for those of you who are thinking of getting this kit:

1. A lot of people are having trouble with the lock nuts that hold the "football" to the chassis, as they want to spin inside their soft plastic slots. I took a pretty easy approach to this: hold the lock nut in place (from spinning) with smooth needle nose pliers. If the lock nut is up against one side, squeeze it gently into the plastic with one side of the pliers, the other side resting on the outside of the football. If the lock nut is more in the middle, then just hold the flat sides with pliers. Since you don't tighten those too much, not much force is needed.

2. The first step has you assemble the pivot balls. As has been described here, they aren't properly finished and have metal flashing left behind. Some dremel it out, some force it, I was unable to do either. So, just save yourself the headache and order a set of these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=2020 They are a direct fit and bolt right up with the kit hardware. They're also finished really nicely and well worth the price.

I'll have more once I try the car out on carpet and verify some of my other ideas
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:43 PM   #567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Ok, time for me to start giving back to this thread. Two build tips for those of you who are thinking of getting this kit:

1. A lot of people are having trouble with the lock nuts that hold the "football" to the chassis, as they want to spin inside their soft plastic slots. I took a pretty easy approach to this: hold the lock nut in place (from spinning) with smooth needle nose pliers. If the lock nut is up against one side, squeeze it gently into the plastic with one side of the pliers, the other side resting on the outside of the football. If the lock nut is more in the middle, then just hold the flat sides with pliers. Since you don't tighten those too much, not much force is needed.

2. The first step has you assemble the pivot balls. As has been described here, they aren't properly finished and have metal flashing left behind. Some dremel it out, some force it, I was unable to do either. So, just save yourself the headache and order a set of these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=2020 They are a direct fit and bolt right up with the kit hardware. They're also finished really nicely and well worth the price.

I'll have more once I try the car out on carpet and verify some of my other ideas
Thank you for your effort....and let us know about your CARPET testing...my carpet SP1 still in the box, I hope one day I can put her on the rug....
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:06 PM   #568
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Thank you for your effort....and let us know about your CARPET testing...my carpet SP1 still in the box, I hope one day I can put her on the rug....
No problem! This build has been slower than most as all this is new to me. Never had a pan car, so a lot about this car took me a while to figure out.

My current issue: fitting the McLaren body to the chassis. Cut out per the mold lines, it almost fits, but hits in several places. My biggest point of confusion is whether or not I'm meant to keep the "tail" of the body, the part that swoops down over the motor, behind the air intake. If I am, soldering wires back there will be super tight, and there is no way I can run a heat sink. I may just wait till Saturday and see what others have done before I start cutting.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:21 PM   #569
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No problem! This build has been slower than most as all this is new to me. Never had a pan car, so a lot about this car took me a while to figure out.

My current issue: fitting the McLaren body to the chassis. Cut out per the mold lines, it almost fits, but hits in several places. My biggest point of confusion is whether or not I'm meant to keep the "tail" of the body, the part that swoops down over the motor, behind the air intake. If I am, soldering wires back there will be super tight, and there is no way I can run a heat sink. I may just wait till Saturday and see what others have done before I start cutting.
It may be easier if you just mount a fan on the side of the motor pod. There are holes there to mount 20 or 25mm fan. Mount a black fan there so you won't have a big sink sticking out the back of the car...... for the motor wires I run it inside the "air intake" of the body and it seems to fit quite well and donot effect the movement of the rear pod.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:40 PM   #570
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So, I had a chance to have a few local F1 guys look over my newly built kit last night. Overall I think I did a good job, but one of them noted a problem: my rear pod droops down past horizontal. I built everything per the manual as far as I can tell, but it looks like the length of the shock lets the pod droop. I have the shock mounted in the hole closest to the rear pod, and I'm using the shortest shock end screwed all the way in. So... what's the best fix here? I can add spacers to the inside of the shock to limit it's travel, or I could try mounting it in the "middle" hole. Have you guys done either, or did I screw something else up that is causing this droop?
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