BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

We also have a good stock of kits and spares
http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com
And we will be getting the hop ups in as they become available

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Awesome...I forgot.

I'll be looking to buy this for my SP-1

http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com/...ferrari-f2012/

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

We have plenty of those in stock as well as F60's, McLarens, and F104 Pro bodysets

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

How is the durability of the SP-1?

Trying to decide between F104 v2 and SP-1 for my 13 year old son. We race on outdoor asphalt and want to run rubber tires.

Now that the SP-1 has been out a few months, thoughts/opinions?

Thanks,

-Rich

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

Both are good cars, you can't beat the SP1 for the money. I have only run one pack on the carpet, but it ran well. I did clobber the wall a couple of times but nothing broke. I am lending the car to someone this weekend for the UF1 Midwest race in Cincinnati so we will see how it fares outdoors

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

Yes, for the money the SP1 looks like an incredible deal.

I'd rather not spend $300-$400 on a TRF101 or anything super high-end (he's only 13) the new Serpent F110 looks nice too, but would like him to have a competitive setup.

Seems like the 104v2 with hopups would be quite a bit more money that the SP1.

Thanks,

-Rich

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

There is actually a price reduction coming, so a great deal will be even better. And yes as good as the TAMIYA stuff is you will be over $300 for a competitive setup with the V2

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

I received my kit the other day, and I am currently about half way done. One thing I noticed though, as the motor pod plate does not sit flush with the main chassis. The problem is the football sits to high up, and makes the center pivot point about .5 to .75mm higher then the main chassis. An easy way to fix this was some sand paper on a piece of glass, and slowly sanded the lower football piece until he pivot ball was at the same height as the pivot balls in the side links. (the way it should be!)


Does anyone know when the carbon (wider) battery holder will be coming out?

Shawn.

InspGadgt

The chassis plate is thicker than the rear pod plate by .5mm so it will be .5mm higher at the pod than at the chassis.

Ph3nyx

i think you may have put the pivot ball support in a wrong position (flip it maybe ?) , normaly it'll be perfectly aligned

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I guess that would explain it! I didnt even notice the difference in thickness. Assumed (from other pan cars) that the motor plate and main chassis would be the same material. Opps!


Shawn.

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

Looking for peoples opions on where is the best place to install the battery for this car. I am going to use a 2S Shorty pack, which is 96mm long. It leaves just enough room to install the ESC (juststock), and RX'er inline with the battery.

I was thinking of mounting it aft for better rear grip, but the ESC wires are going to be VERY long.

Has anyone tried mounting the battery foward, and how did it effect your car?

Shawn.

InspGadgt

I mounted my electronics on the sides initially to test how the car handles with the battery in several positions. For my car running the battery up front worked best.

simple

iTrader: (2)

See last post on page 27 of this thread.
I have my 2s positioned where the balance port is right under the middle hole of the "upper plate". I've seen several other posted cars with a similar position.
Allows mounting of the receiver in front, between the battery and steering servo. Also allows enough room behind for the esc.
Its a logical position to start with.
For reference, I run on carpet. No traction concerns at all.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

This is my setup since day 1...trying to place the lipo more forward for more steering, but still, I need more more more steering...I am still looking for more ON POWER steering running this outdoor with 571 572 combo. I might need to work on the tires....