Help ID this Old School pan chassis.
#1
Help ID this Old School pan chassis.
I received these yesterday for free, see pics below. They were my uncles and we raced them when I was about 15... man thats about 17 years ago. I know the one is a RC10 gold pan that was setup for carpet and I'm not sure about the other. I think it's a Bolink, but I am unable to find much info since they are no longer in business. I would appreciate any help.
I plan on brining them back to life (they actually both have working motors and electronics, I need an am transmitter), the RC10 for playing in the yard that is too small for my nitro MT and the other for messing around on the parking lot. Are there still parts available for this vintage stuff? I d/l'd the RC10 manual last night but couldn't find anything on the other. Here's the pics'.
RC10 #1
RC10 #2
Bolink?? #1
Bolink?? #2
Bolink?? #3
Bolink?? #4
Thanks again.
I plan on brining them back to life (they actually both have working motors and electronics, I need an am transmitter), the RC10 for playing in the yard that is too small for my nitro MT and the other for messing around on the parking lot. Are there still parts available for this vintage stuff? I d/l'd the RC10 manual last night but couldn't find anything on the other. Here's the pics'.
RC10 #1
RC10 #2
Bolink?? #1
Bolink?? #2
Bolink?? #3
Bolink?? #4
Thanks again.
#3
Thanks for the quick response, i thought I'd remembered it being a Bolink. What kind of body can I run on the Bolink? I want the 66' Chevy II body I saw on page 55 of the June 2005 RCCA mag. My first car was a duece.
#4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
You'll need a "wide" pan car body - that means 235mm or @9" - anything that meets that width will work. Those cars would usually run a GTP-style body but I'm sure if you look hard/long enough you can find just about anything you'd want. Bolink used to make about 50 classic car bodies for those before they closed.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
On the E-10 as long as you don't mess up the main chassis, front bumper, or either fiberglass parts for the front end you should be good... everything else can be fixed up with new stock.....
Rear axle and diff--- Associated, IRS have you covered
Front steering blocks and axles---- Associated 10L or BRP
Body posts--- Duratrax, associated, among others....
shocks--- just replace them with new ones if they are in too bad of disrepair.....
Rear axle and diff--- Associated, IRS have you covered
Front steering blocks and axles---- Associated 10L or BRP
Body posts--- Duratrax, associated, among others....
shocks--- just replace them with new ones if they are in too bad of disrepair.....
#7
Originally posted by Mdoc
the car was easy.....but what the .... is that motor lol
the car was easy.....but what the .... is that motor lol
#8
Thank you all for the help. This thing still runs and it's quick too. I need a radio for it, he kept the Magnum Jr it had for another car. I plan on tearing it down completley and making patterns of the chassis and bumper. It is nice to know that some of the Associated stuff will work if I need it. That is a heat sink on the motor, I have yet to pull it to see what the motor is.