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Old 11-05-2014, 06:59 AM   #256
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Hello yb2fast ,
This is the motor mount

Machined on high quality 7075 t6 alluminum.

i ll right send you infos with pm so you can buy the motor mount
The pinion gear is the traxxas #6493 34t .
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:22 AM   #257
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....and some photos of a guy's nitro gt2 i recently converted to electric , using my high speed conversion kit for 42mm motors and a leopard 4092 1480kv motor.









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Old 11-09-2014, 08:53 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koval View Post
Hello yb2fast ,
This is the motor mount

Machined on high quality 7075 t6 alluminum.

i ll right send you infos with pm so you can buy the motor mount
The pinion gear is the traxxas #6493 34t .

Thank you Kostas..and thank you for the PM !!... I will be converting my GT2 Nitro very soon with your mount !
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:39 PM   #259
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Default Diff strength and power consumption?

Hi guys, new GT2 VE owner here. I have some questions for you GT2 veterans:
  • How do the aluminium internal gears and the plastic diff cases hold up? Any issues with the spider gear shafts digging into the plastic cases (I know for example people with the Scorpion XXL do have those issues)? On my Losi I use these (LOSB3528):



    but they won't fit the GT2 and I don't know if there is an equivalent of (or need for) that in the GT2.
  • Does anyone happen to have datalogs of set-ups geared for 90-100mph? I am wondering how much Power that would require and if I should go with a 200A 1/5 ESC, or just a 1/8. I have some logs myself of my 78mph Losi 8ight-T, and with some throttle feathering, I can keep most transient peaks below 200A and average top speed Current is around 130-150A @ 6S Voltage, which my Xerun 150 is able to deal with without issues. I want to gear my GT2 for around 100 mph (a GT has got to be quicker than a stupid truggy no? ), but the GT is way lighter (will be adding some motor and battery weight though) and has way less rotating mass (esp. the wheels/tires), so I was wondering if I would be able to get away with just a 1/8 ESC.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:54 PM   #260
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If you are only after top speed and speed runs a 1/5 scale ESC would be a good way to go in my point of view.

The Mamba XL2 would be a solution to look at. It can handle more ampīs and is also able to run on 8s.

8s is an option worthwhile to look at.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:06 PM   #261
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Thanks! I'm not really after Guinness record single pass speeds, but I would like my set-up to be able to run around 100mph gearing for a full battery (and batteries back-to-back) without having to worry about temps. Trying to get an idea of the Currents involved in running a GT kind of car at 90-100 mph.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:22 PM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_T View Post
Hi guys, new GT2 VE owner here. I have some questions for you GT2 veterans:
  • How do the aluminium internal gears and the plastic diff cases hold up? Any issues with the spider gear shafts digging into the plastic cases (I know for example people with the Scorpion XXL do have those issues)? On my Losi I use these (LOSB3528):



    but they won't fit the GT2 and I don't know if there is an equivalent of (or need for) that in the GT2.
  • Does anyone happen to have datalogs of set-ups geared for 90-100mph? I am wondering how much Power that would require and if I should go with a 200A 1/5 ESC, or just a 1/8. I have some logs myself of my 78mph Losi 8ight-T, and with some throttle feathering, I can keep most transient peaks below 200A and average top speed Current is around 130-150A @ 6S Voltage, which my Xerun 150 is able to deal with without issues. I want to gear my GT2 for around 100 mph (a GT has got to be quicker than a stupid truggy no? ), but the GT is way lighter (will be adding some motor and battery weight though) and has way less rotating mass (esp. the wheels/tires), so I was wondering if I would be able to get away with just a 1/8 ESC.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
Good luck with your new top speed IGT.

The stock gears hold up pretty well, just need to make sure the shimmed back lash & pinion depths are checked well.

Kyosho makes optional hi-strength "straight-cut" diff gears that would be an upgrade worth considering if you have any issues with the factory original gears.

The Mamba XL2 speed control seems the best way to go for 8 cell running.

The Kyosho chassis is lite weight, which is a good thing. You'll need a hi-downforce body that has low drag resistance. I make the Warrior body, a lot of the fastest GT's use it for top speed & control. It's gone 146mph, that's pretty fast!

"Koval" is the guy to talk with about gearing, mounts and rigging the 8 cells.

Welcome to the thread, let project 100mph begin!
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:53 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
Welcome to the thread, let project 100mph begin!
Thanks for the advice and kind words Jspeed! I've already been talking a bit to Koval; he makes some awesome stuff and gives great advice indeed and is going to help me fit this:



I got that motor for $10 in a Hobbyking blow-out sale. Specs seem a bit flimsy for 1/5 scale, but in a light 1/8 GT it could be fun. If it dies prematurely, I will at least have a very nice motor mount to fit a proper one. It's 6S only, which with the low kv requires some ridiculous gearing (50T pinion / 34T spur for ~100 mph no-load @ nominal Voltage), but it should be doable - worst case, Kershaw has some monster heavy steel mod 1 pinions up to 60T (larger diameter than the 56mm motor ).

Interesting you brought up body-design. I haven't really decided whether to go GT-style body, or try and work out something more buggy-ish. I realize the GT style, and especially your Warrior design, is aerodynamically superior and would enable higher top speeds (or require lower motor output Power, and thus heat, at equivalent speed) compared to a buggy, but I am a bit worried about blow-overs caused by bumps or irregularities on normal, non-prepped, street conditions. A car with buggy body (maybe with added front splitter or front spoiler to keep front down) would have more drag and as a result lower top speed, but will also generate less lift at small pitch disturbances caused by bumps. I know it's gonna be a bit of a trade-off, but I'm more after high speed "fooling around", than record breaking single passes. It might look a bit odd , but I kinda like this idea:



Also have one more question: does anyone know the rear toe angle that comes out-of-the-box? I can't find any reference to that in the manual. Seems (to my inexperienced and untrained eye ) quite high for an on-roader, no? Does Kyosho not offer any option parts to change rear toe? Manual only lists the IFW130-133 suspension plates, but those seem to only address anti-squat.
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Last edited by Dr_T; 11-24-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 11-24-2014, 03:20 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_T View Post

Also have one more question: does anyone know the rear toe angle that comes out-of-the-box? I can't find any reference to that in the manual. Seems (to my inexperienced and untrained eye ) quite high for an on-roader, no? Does Kyosho not offer any option parts to change rear toe? Manual only lists the IFW130-133 suspension plates, but those seem to only address anti-squat.

Κyosho's stock rear suspnsion plate gives 3 degrees toe in ,i dont think that you need to change the angle ,this will cause no good stability of the car in high speeds.
However with KYOIF124B

you can change the toe in angle to 2,5 or 2 degress.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:46 PM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_T View Post

Interesting you brought up body-design. I haven't really decided whether to go GT-style body, or try and work out something more buggy-ish. I realize the GT style, and especially your Warrior design, is aerodynamically superior and would enable higher top speeds (or require lower motor output Power, and thus heat, at equivalent speed) compared to a buggy, but I am a bit worried about blow-overs caused by bumps or irregularities on normal, non-prepped, street conditions.

A car with buggy body (maybe with added front splitter or front spoiler to keep front down) would have more drag and as a result lower top speed, but will also generate less lift at small pitch disturbances caused by bumps. I know it's gonna be a bit of a trade-off, but I'm more after high speed "fooling around", than record breaking single passes. It might look a bit odd , but I kinda like this idea:


The buggy type modified body of yours looks cool.

There are a few things to consider when attaining higher speeds and stability control, both are goals that shouldn’t be overlooked or disregarded.

While “blow-over” is an issue that shouldn’t be forgotten, there are ways to minimize the possibility of its occurrence. All of these principles are derivatives from “Bernoulli’s Principle” which are based on physics and vehicle dynamics.

Running your car head first into the wind at high speeds is the #1 way to total it.

Most all of the “blow-over’s” seen on YouTube occur when people try doing their top-speed runs going into the strong winds; it might seem obvious in retrospect, but people continually try it and their cars suffer the results of nature’s strength.

Minimal frontal area of a body is crucial in several areas in hi-speed body design. The leading edge of a body and all subsequent distractions of air flow going over/around a body, not only induce drag resistance, but cause aerodynamic vibration/buffering.

Any item extending outward or inward to what is commonly called the “slipstream” will result in change in wind direction that create problems at hi-speeds.

Changes in “slipstream” affect directional stability and control. The ability to control a car at high speeds can’t be overstated, because without it the car can easily get sideways, catch a tire’s edge and cause a rollover or out of control crash situations. Vibrations caused by changes of air flow over the top and around the sides of a body cause more problems at high-speeds too.

There are several reasons why I designed the Warrior body to look the way it does and why it has also helped thousands of top-speed runners around the world. You don't have to buy one if you are so inclined, but after watching so many people succeed with their top-speed objectives while using it, one would almost have to be crazy not want to try it too.

I also designed a form fitting thick foam front bumper for the body, which virtually eliminates air from getting trapped up under the frontal area of the body and keeps body distortion from wind pressure from ever being an issue. It also provides an excellent location for GPS units and any additional chassis weights to improve hi-speed balance to combat hi-speed body lift.

Sorry for the long post, I could go on & on about the importance of aerodynamics and how they affect top-speed car running. Aerodynamics is free horsepower, stability and speed; all three are your very best friends if you’re looking to go fast and maintain control while you're doing it.

Good luck with your project, hope you have a lot of fun too!

Last edited by Jspeed; 11-24-2014 at 07:41 PM. Reason: specifics
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:17 AM   #266
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Thanks for your explanation Jspeed, I like reading about that stuff! Besides the actual playtime, the Physics part of RC is one of the main attractions of it for me, whether it's trying to understand and apply the principles behind electric motors, mechanics or aerodynamics . It's great to see the work you put in your body design.

I'm not inclined to GT bodies at all; in fact, this will be my first on-road adventure, so I have no experience with either one or the other. With my Truggy though, I did already experience how a big body can easily catch a lot of air when slightly pitching up - hence my concern with the big bottom surface area of GT bodies. Trying to figure out a bit what would make most sense for my driving style and the surface and speeds I think I'll be running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by koval View Post
Κyosho's stock rear suspnsion plate gives 3 degrees toe in ,i dont think that you need to change the angle ,this will cause no good stability of the car in high speeds.
However with KYOIF124B

you can change the toe in angle to 2,5 or 2 degress.
Thanks Koval!
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:42 PM   #267
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Originally Posted by SNR Graphite View Post
Here is Kyosho GT2 4mm thick Graphite chassis with no kick up in the front and new front top plate
to accommodate for the flat chassis.

Has anyone tried this carbon fiber chassis or dealt with SNR
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:11 PM   #268
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Hi guys, just wanted to show my new GT2 "Awesome Spec" conversion, including a motor mount for 1/5 scale motors, made by Koval. He actually made and shipped it within 2 days! Thanks again Koval!



I happened to overlook the clearance required for the rear endbell screws on the motor, so I ended up adding a 1.5 mm DIY CF spacer (I know, poor heat transfer... might have to redo later in alum). Made it a bit bigger so it also closes up a bunch of the unnecessary chassis holes. Project is work in progress; for anyone interested, build thread's here: T's Kyosho GT2 project - 56 mm motor
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:51 AM   #269
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Finally completed my Kyosho Inferno GT2... Bought as a new roller, I've added a Castle 2200kv & Mamba Monster combo, and Ace servo. Looking forward to giving it a run over the next few weekends













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Old 02-24-2015, 05:32 PM   #270
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Default Kyosho Rollers

Hi everyone,

I noticed some of you saying that you bought the GT2 E as a new roller, my question is where did you buy them? I can only find the car in RTR form for about $500. I would much rather have a new roller to begin with. Thanks for your time.
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