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Old 02-25-2013, 02:25 PM   #16
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The car is really disappointing. If you take the retail price + shipping + all the parts needed to get a half-decent WGT car, you come closer and closer to the price a US pan car but it's still a turnigy. Overpriced.
I dont believe there is a way to make the GT-10x "half decent".
You would buy one of these as a plaything, not a racer.

Having had a few runs with mine now i have decided it is a car in its own class, too big for 1/12 too small for 1/10 so it really doesnt fit in.

At the end of the day for $100 it is an enjoyable street basher sort of thing nothing more but possibly much less.

If anyone reading wants to race a pan get buy a pan car, not one of these.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #17
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Ok well either I didn't get the notice in a timely manner or this is the fastest shipment I have ever had from HK. 11 days from the day I got the notice the package went out, car is in my hands.

At first glance, it looks like I got what I paid for but I think there is value here. The body is decent and finished so that's worth at least $25 and a few hours of my time. So what do you get for $45?

The good:
-Assembled. (surprising considering the cost)
-The main chassis pieces and pod plates are real graphite, not FRP.
-Typical pod design with strong aluminum side plates.
-Aluminum body shock with threaded preload.
-Threaded side-spring adjusters. (wish my CRC Xti had that)
-Aluminum/plastic damper tubes.
-Nice foam chassis bumper with removable cut-outs. Nice density and goes up to the body.
-Durable wheels.
-Hex screws throughout, countersunk on chassis bottom.
-Front suspension appears durable.


The bad:
-Assembled. (Most would rather build and "fit" parts to their liking)
-Tires feel hard and "slippery" for lack of a better word. Might be better on asphalt than carpet, probably durable due to firmness but I think traction will not be very good.
-Oddball axle size. (bigger than Tamiya or typical pan car axles)
-Oddball wheel mounting. Kinda like a Tamiya F1 where you can take the wheels off without changing your diff setting.
-Notchy diff action
-Play in the forward shock mount. (just a bit)
-Servo saver is marginal.
-Manual is just an exploded view and parts list.
-Front suspension adjustments limited. Camber is adjustable but not caster. Play in the lower kingpin ball mount.
-Wheels are oddball size.


Well that' all I can comment on just from a cursory look at it. I'll take some pics tomorrow and share more thoughts. Maybe toss some electronics in it and run it on carpet next week.



Sean
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:15 PM   #18
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As expected, the kit tires suck on carpet. Looking for donuts that will fit the stock wheels.

You need to threadlock all the link screws on it before driving it. Otherwise you'll eventually have a yard sale all over the track.

The car is holding up well despite the abuse from hitting walls and lane dividers (no rear traction). So basically this car is some threadlock and tires away from being a good beginner's car IMO.


Sean
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:44 PM   #19
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Tamiya F1 donuts fit the wheels nicely as far as diameter goes. The fronts are a few mm too wide but that's not a big deal. The rears are about 3/8 inch too narrow but I mounted them flush with the outside and ran them anyways. They are a bit too big for serious competition and the body won't fit properly without trimming but what a difference it makes to have traction. I only had a 17.5 motor on 4 cell NiCd (yes you read that correctly) so I wasn't really going that fast but the car handles nicely. With the tires trued down I'm sure it will work much better.


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Old 03-20-2013, 08:56 AM   #20
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Here are some pics of the Tamiya donuts I used with the spare set of wheels I bought when I bought the car. Fronts are 4430 Hard and rears are 4435 Soft.



You can see the fronts bulge out just a bit. The wheels have a shoulder so it was impossible to slide the tire down any further. If you have a tire truer you could easily fix this.

The rears are a bit narrow but they still worked quite well. I suppose you could buy a second set of rears and cut small donuts from them to fill the wheel completely.





When I ran the car I did not use any traction compound. I adjusted the front to have 0.5 degrees of camber (it came with close to 2 degrees!!) and the hard Tamiya fronts had a lot of traction. I couldn't break the rear loose but it made the car very twitchy. You can't adjust the caster on this car as it comes but I might be able to remove some material from the arms and use shims to accomplish this.



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Old 05-19-2013, 03:38 PM   #21
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To add to the post above, I ordered 2 rear sets and sliced them to fit the wheels. I also added shims to the front as these tires are much thicker, and I don't have a truer. I would add a picture but I'm not allowed yet
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:27 AM   #22
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i haven't run mine yet but have noticed that the front balls pop out of the arms with even the slightest bit of movement. will be doing a full strip down soon to get it ready to "race" in our outlaw class on the velodrome. either it'll be a bullet with the 3.5t brushless or it'll be a pile of broken carbon fibre real quick.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:26 AM   #23
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This car cost 71.00 US dollars. I am expecting a 70 dollar car. not a race worthy one. the US warehouse is only 20 minutes away. so that is the total cost of the car for me, and no I don't count my time or gas. there is a "normal" hobby shop a block away and I'm going there anyway.

I have RACE cars. hoping for a FUN car.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:28 AM   #24
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next to a crc 1/10 pan car
I gotta ask, what type of battery is that, and what crazy ass class have you guys come up with
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:41 PM   #25
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I may order one but need more info.
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:06 PM   #26
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I've just ordered a bunch of F103GT parts so hopefully I can mod it to run normal touring car wheels. Bought the F103GT knuckles, bearing set, front axles, rear hubs and diff holder. I am using 6mm carbon for the new rear axle, and a 7mm aluminium sleeve to make it fit the GT10x bearings. I will post updates as the parts arrive, some are from UK and others from china.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:34 AM   #27
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Bent my rear axle at last saturdays racing, good timing as some F103GT parts have turned up Now only waiting on a bearing set and the right rear hub.
Attached Thumbnails
The Turnigy GT-10X thread-20140122_151740.jpg   The Turnigy GT-10X thread-20140122_151932.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:19 PM   #28
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Bent my rear axle at last saturdays racing, good timing as some F103GT parts have turned up Now only waiting on a bearing set and the right rear hub.
So does a F103gt axle fit?
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:54 PM   #29
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So does a F103gt axle fit?
The turnigy axle is 7mm, F103GT axle is 6mm, so I used some aluminium tubing to space it out which worked ok. I did put a bit of tape on the F103GT axle just to space it in perfectly. Really it could do with some 6mm spacers too as the back looks quite a bit narrower than the front with it on.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:45 PM   #30
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Hi all,

First post here, I usually reside on a Dutch forum... I would like to give Pro 10 racing a go, on a budget to see if I like it. If I buy this kit, a better / more common rear axle, wheels and tires, would that get me going? I don't mind making spacers and such as mentioned above. I know what motor/esc/body etc, and I know this car will not be a winner right out of the box. Nor will I, for that matter, in my first season...

All info is appreciated,
Cheers,

Hugo
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