1130LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
01-14-2021, 03:44 PM - Wikipost
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04-22-2017, 06:23 AM
#1306
A cheap alternative to O-rings is to use medium size glow fuel tubing. With a sharp razor blade, you can slice off whatever sized spacers you need. This also works inside the spring/shocks to limit ride height. A 12 inch piece of tubing would likely be more than enough for everyone.
04-25-2017, 10:38 PM
#1307
Our 90s DTM approach with TT-02 this season. Can't wait to battle it out
04-26-2017, 01:13 AM
#1309
04-26-2017, 04:57 AM
#1310
On that particular day we ran this track in the video which shows me driving the FF03 chassis (cold weather again in Germany): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-yPAMpqyKRo
Normally we do parking lot racing with our TT02. Unfortunately no videos of our last years SuperGT series races
You can search for "Blautal RC Car Racer" on Facebook. There are some very nice pics of last years cars on track.
Normally we do parking lot racing with our TT02. Unfortunately no videos of our last years SuperGT series races
You can search for "Blautal RC Car Racer" on Facebook. There are some very nice pics of last years cars on track.
04-26-2017, 09:31 AM
#1311
Hello Again all,
So I have all the parts I need inbound and hoping they are here in the next couple days. I have done a bunch of reading and I have a couple questions I have not found answers to and was wondering if anyone has any advise?
1. I am building the car in what I would call "tarmac rally spec" for unprepared roads and parking lots. I ordered CVA's and sport tuned springs. What piston would you recommend and with what weight oil? I am guessing I will want a bit softer set up for fairly low traction. I already have 30 and 40wt shock oil.
2. Gearing- So I still love flying inrunners in gear boxes on my planes and am pretty darn good at getting the gearing pretty decent right off the bat but I am a newbie to this whole car thing and not sure where I should start. I am going to run a old Novak 17.5 Havoc Sport, basically it is a 17.5 Blinky set up. I have not ordered the YR motor mount or the Speed Tuned Gears yet but it sounds like the stock gearing is pretty short. What would you think a good all around FDR would be for bashing that would produce a good turn of speed but also offer good grunt off the line all while keeping the motor "comfortable" temp wise.
I am looking forward to putting it together once the last box from Hong Kong arrives.
Love the DTM bodies above.....that was some great racing back in the day. I am a huge Audi fan (I have owned a Ur-S4, B5 S4 and currently a B6 S4 plus I own an original '84 Ur-q) and in my searching I found an Audi V8 DTM shell that looks sweet but they want like $70 for it....Maybe one of these days I will be feeling a bit flush and put it on order.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
So I have all the parts I need inbound and hoping they are here in the next couple days. I have done a bunch of reading and I have a couple questions I have not found answers to and was wondering if anyone has any advise?
1. I am building the car in what I would call "tarmac rally spec" for unprepared roads and parking lots. I ordered CVA's and sport tuned springs. What piston would you recommend and with what weight oil? I am guessing I will want a bit softer set up for fairly low traction. I already have 30 and 40wt shock oil.
2. Gearing- So I still love flying inrunners in gear boxes on my planes and am pretty darn good at getting the gearing pretty decent right off the bat but I am a newbie to this whole car thing and not sure where I should start. I am going to run a old Novak 17.5 Havoc Sport, basically it is a 17.5 Blinky set up. I have not ordered the YR motor mount or the Speed Tuned Gears yet but it sounds like the stock gearing is pretty short. What would you think a good all around FDR would be for bashing that would produce a good turn of speed but also offer good grunt off the line all while keeping the motor "comfortable" temp wise.
I am looking forward to putting it together once the last box from Hong Kong arrives.
Love the DTM bodies above.....that was some great racing back in the day. I am a huge Audi fan (I have owned a Ur-S4, B5 S4 and currently a B6 S4 plus I own an original '84 Ur-q) and in my searching I found an Audi V8 DTM shell that looks sweet but they want like $70 for it....Maybe one of these days I will be feeling a bit flush and put it on order.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
04-26-2017, 01:04 PM
#1312
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Hello Again all,
So I have all the parts I need inbound and hoping they are here in the next couple days. I have done a bunch of reading and I have a couple questions I have not found answers to and was wondering if anyone has any advise?
1. I am building the car in what I would call "tarmac rally spec" for unprepared roads and parking lots. I ordered CVA's and sport tuned springs. What piston would you recommend and with what weight oil? I am guessing I will want a bit softer set up for fairly low traction. I already have 30 and 40wt shock oil.
2. Gearing- So I still love flying inrunners in gear boxes on my planes and am pretty darn good at getting the gearing pretty decent right off the bat but I am a newbie to this whole car thing and not sure where I should start. I am going to run a old Novak 17.5 Havoc Sport, basically it is a 17.5 Blinky set up. I have not ordered the YR motor mount or the Speed Tuned Gears yet but it sounds like the stock gearing is pretty short. What would you think a good all around FDR would be for bashing that would produce a good turn of speed but also offer good grunt off the line all while keeping the motor "comfortable" temp wise.
I am looking forward to putting it together once the last box from Hong Kong arrives.
Love the DTM bodies above.....that was some great racing back in the day. I am a huge Audi fan (I have owned a Ur-S4, B5 S4 and currently a B6 S4 plus I own an original '84 Ur-q) and in my searching I found an Audi V8 DTM shell that looks sweet but they want like $70 for it....Maybe one of these days I will be feeling a bit flush and put it on order.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
So I have all the parts I need inbound and hoping they are here in the next couple days. I have done a bunch of reading and I have a couple questions I have not found answers to and was wondering if anyone has any advise?
1. I am building the car in what I would call "tarmac rally spec" for unprepared roads and parking lots. I ordered CVA's and sport tuned springs. What piston would you recommend and with what weight oil? I am guessing I will want a bit softer set up for fairly low traction. I already have 30 and 40wt shock oil.
2. Gearing- So I still love flying inrunners in gear boxes on my planes and am pretty darn good at getting the gearing pretty decent right off the bat but I am a newbie to this whole car thing and not sure where I should start. I am going to run a old Novak 17.5 Havoc Sport, basically it is a 17.5 Blinky set up. I have not ordered the YR motor mount or the Speed Tuned Gears yet but it sounds like the stock gearing is pretty short. What would you think a good all around FDR would be for bashing that would produce a good turn of speed but also offer good grunt off the line all while keeping the motor "comfortable" temp wise.
I am looking forward to putting it together once the last box from Hong Kong arrives.
Love the DTM bodies above.....that was some great racing back in the day. I am a huge Audi fan (I have owned a Ur-S4, B5 S4 and currently a B6 S4 plus I own an original '84 Ur-q) and in my searching I found an Audi V8 DTM shell that looks sweet but they want like $70 for it....Maybe one of these days I will be feeling a bit flush and put it on order.
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
Whatever you do, keep a temp gun handy and check after a minute or so after every ratio change or timing change. Keep it under 160 degrees and you should be fine.
04-27-2017, 10:22 AM
#1313
Our 90s DTM approach with TT-02 this season. Can't wait to battle it out
04-27-2017, 10:26 AM
#1314
For 17.5 gearing, somewhere in the 4.2 - 4.5 range depending on the size of your running space. I am running a Trinity D3.5 17.5 with timing advanced all the way to the stop on a carpet track that is about 70x40 feet and running a 4.42 FDR. Temps after 5-6 minute race is staying around 105 degrees, but I am running a fan. The car jumps off the line and is pretty quick in the space. If you are running in a larger area, you could go a little lower on the FDR. Or, if you don't crank your timing up, you could run a lot lower FDR. Its up to you how you want the car to behave, but for me, I had too much torque with the lower timing setting.
Whatever you do, keep a temp gun handy and check after a minute or so after every ratio change or timing change. Keep it under 160 degrees and you should be fine.
Whatever you do, keep a temp gun handy and check after a minute or so after every ratio change or timing change. Keep it under 160 degrees and you should be fine.
Funny thing, I have been flying high performance RC planes for 20+ years and have always used my finger as a thermometer. If I can't keep my finger on the motor for 20 seconds it is too hot. I have yet to smoke a motor.
This morning before work I built my shocks, I went with the 2 hole piston and 40wt associated oil to start. Once I get the car running I will experiment.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Jim
04-27-2017, 01:23 PM
#1315
OK, another question.
I did some preliminary assembly of the drive line but have not gotten into the suspension as of yet because I am waiting on some shims. With that said I see in the manual that they recommend lubing the suspension pivot points, what are your thoughts on this? I am kind of the school of thought that if you grease them any dirt that gets in there will be trapped where are with no grease the dirt will get in there but it can also get out.
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Jim
I did some preliminary assembly of the drive line but have not gotten into the suspension as of yet because I am waiting on some shims. With that said I see in the manual that they recommend lubing the suspension pivot points, what are your thoughts on this? I am kind of the school of thought that if you grease them any dirt that gets in there will be trapped where are with no grease the dirt will get in there but it can also get out.
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Jim
04-27-2017, 01:40 PM
#1316
We race mainly outdoors and never lube the suspension. And like you said it is not recommendable for catching all the dirt. I also would not recommentd to shim all the slop out of the car. I drive it with all slop and was fastest guy all weekend on one of the Eurocup races here in Germany. Even the extremly sloppy steering is no problem at all.
04-27-2017, 03:46 PM
#1317
On that particular day we ran this track in the video which shows me driving the FF03 chassis (cold weather again in Germany): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-yPAMpqyKRo
Normally we do parking lot racing with our TT02. Unfortunately no videos of our last years SuperGT series races
You can search for "Blautal RC Car Racer" on Facebook. There are some very nice pics of last years cars on track.
Normally we do parking lot racing with our TT02. Unfortunately no videos of our last years SuperGT series races
You can search for "Blautal RC Car Racer" on Facebook. There are some very nice pics of last years cars on track.
04-27-2017, 05:50 PM
#1318
We race mainly outdoors and never lube the suspension. And like you said it is not recommendable for catching all the dirt. I also would not recommentd to shim all the slop out of the car. I drive it with all slop and was fastest guy all weekend on one of the Eurocup races here in Germany. Even the extremly sloppy steering is no problem at all.
As for shimming I will continue to do so. While I am far from an expert on racing RC cars I spent a few years campaigning in SCCA SOLO in full scale. There is a reason people spend thousands of dollars on Heim joints.
Cheers,
Jim
04-28-2017, 02:11 PM
#1319
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
I agree with you on the shims. I flew r/c helicopters for years and slop was the enemy. The slop will make the car a little less consistent, because it will behave differently based on what position the slop allows from corner to corner. Just the from toe and steering angle changes are enough to cause issue. If in one corner you have 1 degree of toe out and the next has one degree in, you are going to have a vastly different experience in those corners.
I am not discounting that some people can drive their cars like that and be very fast, but I am not one of those. And I'm not trying to start an internet argument, I just think shimming out slop is a good plan.
05-04-2017, 06:55 AM
#1320
Hello All,
Last night I have pretty much finished the build of my TT02 Porsche chassis. As with all the Tamiya kits I have assembled it was a joy to put together. It took about 4 hours but a lot of that was Because I spent time finding just the right shim size to allow the arms to flop but not have much slop which I was able to achieve. I also cleaned the grease out of the bearings and applied lube to them.
I could have sworn that I had included the high speed gear set in my order but apparently I forgot it so that is on order with a spur and pinion to get me to 4.10 FDR which I am hoping works well for bashing.
I know this was suppose to be a low budget build but I am thinking about getting a new radio, I have a old and very basic Futaba AM radio but thinking of getting the Futaba 3PV which seems to offer some nice features and the reviews are decent.
I am still in a quandary as to how to paint it. I am not sure if I will follow the box art or if I will do some rendition of another Martini livery.....or maybe go with a street car paint job. Right now I am thinking of a facsimile of the #59 car that Hurley Haywood drove as I am a big Hurley fan.
Once it is done I will post some pics of it.
Here is my set up:
Bearings
CVA shocks- I built them with the two hole pistons and 40wt oil, Yellow springs in the rear and stock springs in the front which seem really stiff...to stiff?
Yeah Racing 2* rear hubs
Yeah Racing motor mount
High Speed Gear Set with 64P gears
Cheers,
Jim
Last night I have pretty much finished the build of my TT02 Porsche chassis. As with all the Tamiya kits I have assembled it was a joy to put together. It took about 4 hours but a lot of that was Because I spent time finding just the right shim size to allow the arms to flop but not have much slop which I was able to achieve. I also cleaned the grease out of the bearings and applied lube to them.
I could have sworn that I had included the high speed gear set in my order but apparently I forgot it so that is on order with a spur and pinion to get me to 4.10 FDR which I am hoping works well for bashing.
I know this was suppose to be a low budget build but I am thinking about getting a new radio, I have a old and very basic Futaba AM radio but thinking of getting the Futaba 3PV which seems to offer some nice features and the reviews are decent.
I am still in a quandary as to how to paint it. I am not sure if I will follow the box art or if I will do some rendition of another Martini livery.....or maybe go with a street car paint job. Right now I am thinking of a facsimile of the #59 car that Hurley Haywood drove as I am a big Hurley fan.
Once it is done I will post some pics of it.
Here is my set up:
Bearings
CVA shocks- I built them with the two hole pistons and 40wt oil, Yellow springs in the rear and stock springs in the front which seem really stiff...to stiff?
Yeah Racing 2* rear hubs
Yeah Racing motor mount
High Speed Gear Set with 64P gears
Cheers,
Jim