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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 04-12-2017, 10:40 AM
  #1291  
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Originally Posted by soze
Anyone know if the TT-02R can be adjusted to the 251mm wheelbase so that I can fit the Tamiya 1/10 RC Porsche 911 GT3 Cup VIP '07 body? (made for the TT-01E)
As the R uses regular TT02 top and bottom arms I believe you can shorten to 251 like a regular TT02. The alloy hubs shouldn't stop you doing that. Caveat: I don't have an R but too many normal ones and far too many Type S versions lol.
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Old 04-12-2017, 11:14 AM
  #1292  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
Yes. From memory it's a single 0.2mm shim. They can vary depending on the mould tolerance of the individual chassis.
I suspect my lack of shims lead to my newfound lack of teeth. Oddly enough, my family ~litterally~ makes gears for a living, so I have some grasp on this. :-) I orders some .1mm shims so I can do the stack properly.

I've also got the fancy hard chassis.
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Old 04-12-2017, 01:09 PM
  #1293  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
I suspect my lack of shims lead to my newfound lack of teeth. Oddly enough, my family ~litterally~ makes gears for a living, so I have some grasp on this. :-) I orders some .1mm shims so I can do the stack properly.

I've also got the fancy hard chassis.
I too have the Hard Deck in blue on my recently rebuilt Type S. I ran it last weekend on gray carpet with an old 17x2 brushed motor and it felt very direct. I like it a lot.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:45 PM
  #1294  
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If I bought a TT02R, what are other must have upgrades for TCS?
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:21 AM
  #1295  
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Hello All,
After 7 years I am getting back into an "on-road" car after my F201 and TA-03 were stolen in a home robbery. I found a sealed TT02 Porsche RSR on RCgroups for $100 delivered so I thought what the heck. I am a big rally fan (I own a full scale '84 Audi Turbo quattro coupe) and plan on building this into a rally car.

With that said I have read quite a bit on the TT02 last night but have some questions on some parts I am looking at.

Shocks- Are the 54753 Super Mini CVA the correct shock to go with? As for oil should I go 40wt or drop down to 30wt for rally?

Shims- One thing I have learned about Tamiya kits over the years is that shimming the suspension helps a lot. I am assuming that I need 3MM ID shims for that? I have also read that it is a good idea to shim the diff's and wondering what size shims I need for that.

Steering- One thing that annoys me is sloppy steering. While I am trying to keep this a pretty budget build and not looking to go full Aluminum I am wondering if the 54550 stepped screws are worthwhile? They are cheap and I have read some positive reviews. On the TA03 it was common practice to use small o-rings in the ball links to take out some slop, it this necessary on the TT02?

Differentials- So I am use to ball diffs but reading about using different weight grease and oil in the diffs to get the proper limiting effects. I laymans terms what should I put in the front and rear?

Bearings- Already ordered.

I also have an old Novak Havoc 17.5 turn motor/ESC which was going to go in the TA03 back in the day. The motor looks like it is 2200KV so I am guessing the stock gearing would be fine?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:42 AM
  #1296  
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Originally Posted by Dan
If I bought a TT02R, what are other must have upgrades for TCS?
The usuals.. cvd, better dampers. Steering arms..
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:37 AM
  #1297  
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My M05, and TT02b both have.. pretty sloppy steering. Well "had" sloppy steering. The M05 I swapped out for metal steering gear. I have it ordered for the TT02 as well.

To reduce slop on any ball cup, I use a slice of silicone tube that's ~very lightly lubed~ with light oil. The slice allows adjustment of the preload on the ball cup.

IIRC, the shims for the differential are 8mm shims. (at least that's what I ordered for my car...)
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:59 AM
  #1298  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
My M05, and TT02b both have.. pretty sloppy steering. Well "had" sloppy steering. The M05 I swapped out for metal steering gear. I have it ordered for the TT02 as well.

To reduce slop on any ball cup, I use a slice of silicone tube that's ~very lightly lubed~ with light oil. The slice allows adjustment of the preload on the ball cup.

IIRC, the shims for the differential are 8mm shims. (at least that's what I ordered for my car...)
Perfect,
Thanks for intel.

I did a bunch of reading on diffs last night and I may be more confused now then I was. The car will be used on unprepared tarmac and dirt. It sounds like the less grip there is the "locking" you need? Anyone care to take a educated guess what I should run. I will not be racing at all but just looking for some guidance here.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:44 PM
  #1299  
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We've started a spec class at our indoor racing club - TT02, Torque Tuned motors. Basically kit plus bearings. No other mods.

Some great racing is happening, but last night in one race 3 of us all lot a front doggone in one race. I understand the flex and slop in these things, but is there any cheap way of minimising this? O rings in the cups or anything? Or just accept its going to happen from time to time?
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LJH
Perfect,
Thanks for intel.

I did a bunch of reading on diffs last night and I may be more confused now then I was. The car will be used on unprepared tarmac and dirt. It sounds like the less grip there is the "locking" you need? Anyone care to take a educated guess what I should run. I will not be racing at all but just looking for some guidance here.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim
you want to keep the rear diff relatively free. Tamiya AW grease works well for adding a little resistance. A common practice is to either run aw grease in the from as well , or if you like more "front pull" you can run a putty filled diff.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:06 PM
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I just completed an R for USGT have not tested it out yet but that time will come
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:35 AM
  #1302  
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Originally Posted by Sith Lord
We've started a spec class at our indoor racing club - TT02, Torque Tuned motors. Basically kit plus bearings. No other mods.

Some great racing is happening, but last night in one race 3 of us all lot a front doggone in one race. I understand the flex and slop in these things, but is there any cheap way of minimising this? O rings in the cups or anything? Or just accept its going to happen from time to time?
Not a very inexpensive way to solve it, but how it is solved in the Tamiya Euro Cup is with parts 53792 and 54477.
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Old 04-22-2017, 02:49 AM
  #1303  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
Not a very inexpensive way to solve it, but how it is solved in the Tamiya Euro Cup is with parts 53792 and 54477.
Yeah, thats the obvious way. No CVDs, or other major mods allowed though.
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:43 AM
  #1304  
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Originally Posted by Sith Lord
We've started a spec class at our indoor racing club - TT02, Torque Tuned motors. Basically kit plus bearings. No other mods.

Some great racing is happening, but last night in one race 3 of us all lot a front doggone in one race. I understand the flex and slop in these things, but is there any cheap way of minimising this? O rings in the cups or anything? Or just accept its going to happen from time to time?
I think the class is a great idea. I would try "o" rings in the out drives. I wonder if you put a spacer inside the shock body to limit rebound if that would help? I have never tried it.
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:20 AM
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Aah ok...
My friends and I are driving the same rules as your class states, but later allowed this "tuning" as it doesn't change your speed and gives the freedom of contact racing. I for myself never had a problem with bones falling out. I guess it is a little different with each car...
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