porkybmx

Hey Guys,
I need a good starting point for a stock motor set-up.
I'm going to be running my school club races on tennis court surfaces, and I have 40wt oil in the shocks right now, so what piston setting should i have them at for stock condition? thanks

-ty

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

It not the motor you should be concentrating on. The only concerns for the motor is what gearing you use. Find out how they will be setting up the track. Is it tight or is it wide open with few tight turns. That will determined what set up you use. I basically use the tight track set up from CorallyUSA on both our local tracks(one tight one large) I like this set up because I prefer to run a reasonably firm suspension set up.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Had an excellent weekend with the Corally. Won all 3 rounds of xpert stock at the 2nd annual Fall Classic -dedicated my racing to Alex Zanardi who is in critical condition after this weekends CART race.

Porkybmx- Try using the all the way open position for pistons. orange springs front- white rear. Actually you can't go wrong with the Sakke set-up even for stock. But try running a little less rear toe in if the traction is good- experiment with it till it feels right without spining on corner exit. That will give you a little less drag on your stock motor.
I've tried the Sorex tires but they don't seem to be as fast as Take-off 22's or 27's when your running on multi-use regular asphalt. Your tire selection will be the most important set-up. The p2k is still the stock motor to beat when geared at 6.0 starting point. And don't forget the split top plate modification! >)

Nuno

This weekend I head up to the 7th round of our National Championiship. During qualifying I never got the car to my liking, I was using Sakke's Euro's setup with the top deck mod. A bad shotky diode caused interference during the first 3 qualifiers, I only discovered it in the last qualifier but didn't make the A-main, ended up with number 4 in the B-main. Won the first B-main heat plus a 3rd a 2nd places giving me the 2nd place in the B, 12th overall.
The track is a very large track with big straights ending in sharp hairpins, the surface was VERY dusty and I had to lock up the one-way in order to do some strong braking.
I used a Corally 9*2 geared 30/122, awesome power!

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

MikeR: I thought you said you weren't going to race over the weekend?

Well I didn't get to do any racing. It rained both Sat. and Sun.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Oh no, I was definately going racing. It was nice hanging out with the pals and getting away from the real world for a day, you know what I mean?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Oh, I just misunderstood your post. Now that I read it over again I see that you were saying that going racing was your "moment to get away and appreciate life"

So actually we were saying the exact same thing. duhh, on my part.


by the way: how do you put someones entire post into a quote like that? I've always wondered that but never bothered to ask anyone.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I'm selling two C4.1's in the for sale thread here.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

I have a question for you guys. If you had the choice of rebuilding your diffs with the Corally diff grease or Associated's diff grease, which would you use? I didn't have a choice before so I used the Associated grease. But, now I have both and I'm not sure which is best. The Associated grease seems that its thicker and would stick to the balls better, but the Corally grease is what they feel is best. So which should I use?

Another quesiton. What are you guys running as far as rear anti-squat. Right now I have it in the 3mm position which gives more traction. But, what about the .5mm position? How does the car handle with the anti-squat in this position. Let me know, I was thinking of trying it because I already have all the rear traction I could ever want.

Matt: why are you selling?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Nuno- how did you know your shotky is bad? I wonder if mine is giving me problems.

Darkside- There's an icon (the last one) near your text box that I clicked to automaticaly pull up your quote. I like the corally lube too as far as smoothness goes but the downside is you have to apply more lube after about 3 weeks so it can be a pain.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Aw, ok, I got it, duh on my part. Never paid much attention to that little sprite there.

Thanks for those two answers, what about the rear anti-squat though. What do you usually run, the .5mm or 3mm?

Nuno

MikeR- the shotky is the first thing I check when I have interference. Most times a bad shotky has a visible crack on the outside but many times you don't see it. I guess you can check it with a multimeter but I don't know how.
Just take the shotky out or replace it with a new one abd try.
A bad shotky generates many noise that causes interference.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Nuno, that's a good point. Going to replace them this week.
Darkside- Actually, .5 is supposed to give you more traction while 3deg. is supposed to give you more steering. I like .5 because the suspension works more effeciently that way as a result more traction, more rear traction means less toe in, less toe means more speed... hehe, works for me.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

MikeR: Thats odd.The manual that came with all my various Schumacher cars says the exact opposite as what you just said.

"The more anti-squat, more traction, but at maximum the car will get unstable when turning into high speed corners. With zero anti-squat the steering will be very sharp."

Thats straight out of Schumacher's tuning section at the back of all their manuals. Everything else in their manual's tuning section matches spot on with what Corally puts in their tuning section. I would assume then that Corally would say the same thing they did about the anti-squat.

I will do some more research on the matter and see if I can discover which statement is right. Maybe I will go straight to the source and ask CorallyUSA. Thanks for the input though. I will let you know what I find.

Nuno

Anti Squat:

from the Associated handbook:
Adding Anti-Squat: If you add anti-squat, your car will (in general) get more ‘driving traction’ and hence accelerate faster. When you come out of corners, you will be able to use more throttle and your car will be more stable. But (and it’s a big but), when you back off to turn into a corner, your car will have less rear grip. This might result in you spinning out when you back off the throttle. Adding anti-squat also effects the way your car drives through bumps on the track. If the track is bumpy right where you want to accelerate, anti-squat is not a good thing - it will make the rear of your car very ‘bouncy’. On the other hand, if the rough stuff is in a place where you are cruising on constant throttle, or even decelerating, then anti-squat will actually help your car to ‘cruise’ through the bumps more smoothly.

Decreasing Anti-Squat: When you decrease anti-squat you lose rear ‘driving’ traction. You car will be a little more prone to power slides and fishtails. However, you will have more traction on a trailing throttle - resulting in your car being more stable into corners. It will also accelerate better through bumpy parts of the track.