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Old 06-18-2002, 11:10 PM   #871
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ok, i hear ya. as it turns out my c41 didn't come today. shucks. soon though. i think i'll copy you're layout for starters. do you think there's ever a time that i'll need to run the stock layout? oh and what's the reason for the front upper hingepin mod on your project car. seems like there's no reactive camber if your arms are parallel. just wondering. i dig your creativity though. ok, check in again cookie. later for now.
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Old 06-19-2002, 03:00 PM   #872
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Never noticed your site before Cookie- I'm glad Seaball pointed it out. Looks like you've got one solid C4 there. Makes me want to dust mine off and race the ol warrior again but it desperately needs a new chassis. I hate to buy an expensive new one knowing the new car might be out soon though ??
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Old 06-19-2002, 04:11 PM   #873
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That is a nice site you got their cookie.
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Old 06-19-2002, 06:25 PM   #874
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Cookie - What did all the factory guys say about your car when they saw it at the worlds?

Guys i have seen this car in person and it is immaculate, well done cookie, all the changes look factory, especially things like the sway bars.
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Old 06-19-2002, 10:31 PM   #875
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Seaball - I would recommend building it and running it standard first and then moding it, but if you're crazy like me then just go nuts! This battery change also brings the weight more centralised fore and aft so the pitch characteristics will be more rapid giving quicker turn in reaction and less exit steering, so keep this in mind. But it is awesome for left to right balance.

The front arms was just an experiment of different roll centres, not specifically no reactive castor. Although I usually run non-reactive castor position anyway. I like the sway bars most, this allows a softer suspension setup will still not having the car roll too much.

Darkseid - thanks

Besercoe - They seemed to like it. Marcus wanted to take it home with him for the Euros!!

The new car is sounding like it may be raced in late August or September but nothing confirmed yet.
Everyone cross your fingers!
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Old 06-20-2002, 10:19 PM   #876
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We're hanging out for those pics, Andy
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Old 06-23-2002, 11:24 PM   #877
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Sorry, I am slack with the scanning lately..... :-P


How about this in the mean time...........






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Old 06-24-2002, 03:50 PM   #878
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that sucks! nah. oh, hey finally got the c4.1 today. kinda nice. i was surprised how little travel the pivot ball system allows. not that it's not enough, but whatever. i still have to build some of it, so i'll post again with some questions. later.
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Old 06-24-2002, 09:59 PM   #879
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Awesome seaball!

Yes! As you said, the movement is limited somewhat, but you can still get the maximum required travel once everything is together and operating normally.

Especially note that when you add the top rear link it will seem like there is insufficient down travel as the plastic ball end hits the hub/ball.

But not to worry! As when the droop screws are in and the shocks hooked up it all works fine even with up to 12 or 13 mm of droop (I usually run about 9mm measured inclusive of ride height.

Tell us how you go building and running it and all questions you have.
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Old 06-24-2002, 10:02 PM   #880
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will do sir.
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Old 06-25-2002, 08:18 PM   #881
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Nice work Andy,
How long did you hold him hostage?
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:40 AM   #882
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...until we sobered up a little......
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Old 06-26-2002, 07:35 PM   #883
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Niiiiiice....
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Old 06-26-2002, 08:40 PM   #884
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everyone on this thread sucks.
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Old 06-26-2002, 08:47 PM   #885
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ok, ok. now that i have your attention. i'm still assembling the c41. do you know of any shims to use on the axles? like say .500 id, but with only what... say .600 od. .003 thick? i found some on mcmaster-carr but they are .750 od and will rub the hubs. i can probably turn them down, but i figured you fellas would have a better solution. and no, there isn't much slop, but i'm going for less than .001 slop. i dunno, i'm just a nut that way. was the car designed so that the snap ring would give just a little pressure on the race? maybe i just need new rings.

oh cookie, did you shave off the flange that penetrates the battery slots to run that symetric configuration? i think i'll start with the stock config.

i'm also looking for a front one way for it. what, really, does a one way pulley do that a oneway diff won't do better? ya'know?
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