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Old 01-03-2002, 12:00 PM   #541
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what you have looks to be the C4 Andy Griffiths Limited Edition(C4 AGLE)....im pretty sure its the same or pretty close to the C4, it just has the bronze bulkheads...I dunno the other differences...
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Old 01-03-2002, 01:12 PM   #542
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If it's not too much trouble, could everyone post pictures of their Corally C4's (chassis) ... including what version, edition, and equipment... Pictures of your paint jobs and bodies would be sweet to!!

I'd just like to see what the difference is between them

Regards,
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Last edited by KnightShift; 01-03-2002 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 01-03-2002, 02:33 PM   #543
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Black-Knight: Nice pics. I see you mount your reciever on the servo, any particular reason? To make the synthesized reciever easier to adjust perhapes? I think when I get my synthesized reciever, I will mount it right where I have my XXL currently(next to the speed control). I'm sure I'll still be able to adjust it.
I mount the reciever on the servo, because i don't really have enough room down near the speedo. It's also close to the antenna mount point.
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Old 01-03-2002, 03:33 PM   #544
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Nice paint job on your Corally Black Knight!! I really like that body too!!

I think I just found the body I want to buy for mine!! I'm gonna bang my current body around till I get to be a better driver, then I'll put on a nice one!!

-KS
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Old 01-03-2002, 04:04 PM   #545
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Quote:
Originally posted by KnightShift
Nice paint job on your Corally Black Knight!! I really like that body too!!

I think I just found the body I want to buy for mine!! I'm gonna bang my current body around till I get to be a better driver, then I'll put on a nice one!!

-KS
Thanks..the Volvo S60 handles well and is becomming a very popular body here in Australia.
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Old 01-03-2002, 10:08 PM   #546
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Knightshift: The car you have there is the C4 AGLE. THe differences between it and the C4 are:

-Longer chassis with the cells shifted forward on the left side(when veiwing from the rear of the car)
-3mm rear anti-squat

Thats a good car you got there. If you ever choose to, the upgrade to the C4.1 will only run about $149.00. But, that isn't anything you need to worry about right now. Just have fun with it!

Also, when considering a new body, consider the Vauxhall Opel Vectra. Its a really nice body.
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Old 01-04-2002, 11:19 AM   #547
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Hi
was wondering does the corally 30wt shock oil equivalent to 30wt trinity??by the way how do i adjust the anti squat on the 4.1
....just bought the vectra also ...maybe will post some pics of my car and body once i finished building and painting it.....any recommendation on gearing for a stock(23T) and a 12dbl on a small tight track .....maybe could also give me the details on what pinion and spur size to use....coz i know nothing about drive ratio
thanks


Last edited by wiley; 01-04-2002 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 01-04-2002, 12:13 PM   #548
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It's hard to say about different brands, It's best to not mix brands of oil since there is no standard. Change anti squat on the rear bottom arms through the bulkheads. The flattest setting (.5mm) gives best overall performance.
Final drive on the c.4 is 1.882... a good overall is probably 7.0 for the 23turn and maybe 8.0 for the 12dbl but these are just guesses for your track. Are you using 64 or 48 pitch? If 48 pitch then pick up all spur gears between 89 and 93 tooth and pinions between 33 through 38 to help you achieve the right ratios you might need....
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Old 01-04-2002, 04:38 PM   #549
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hi mike!
thanks for replying!
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Old 01-04-2002, 07:33 PM   #550
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wiley: your one of us now, you don't have to say "hi" everytime you hit the thread.

I have found that the 48 pitch/90 tooth spur gear that comes with the car gives me all I need in the spur department. I keep a couple of them in my box incase I catch a pebble in one and grove it.

As for the pinion, I usually keep a selection of everything from 22 tooth up to 30 tooth. I only reach using the higher pinions toward the end of the season when the weather is cool and I can get away with running really low final ratios.

But, usually I stick around the 6.3-6.5 range when running P2K motors and 7.0-7.2 range when running MVP motors.

Unfortunately, we don't do much mod racing around here, so I can't speak to the gearing in that apartment.

As for shock oil. I use Losi Certified 30wt. oil in my shocks.
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Old 01-06-2002, 07:29 AM   #551
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by the way which spur number(64pitch) do u suggest to use with a stock and modified motor......is 110 for stock and 120 for mod sounds okay??? coz it seems that my lhs doesnt have any 48pitch in stock...what's the differnce in having a 6.0 against a 7.0 ratio??if i understand correctly using a higher gear ratio(i.e 6.0 compare to 7.0) u will lose some runtime/torque using higher ratio and using a lower ratio u have more runtime/torque but less rpm....110/32(6.47) and 120/35(6.45) this gear ratio is about the same but different spur/pinion sizes....what i want to know is what is the advantage/disadvantage of using either one coz they are having near identical ratios!!how do u guys gear your car???is it by using the same spur with different pinion sizes or use different spur and pinion to get the desired ratio???Does robinsons racing spur/pinion fits this car??
sorry if any of my question sounds silly or maybe it is really a silly question....so far i only have a nitro ...it's easier to choose the spur/pinion size as there are only a few to choose from(no 48pitch no 64pitch)
oh yah forgot to say HI!!
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Old 01-06-2002, 09:19 AM   #552
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wiley: well first off, it doesn't really matter whether you use 48 or 64 pitch. If you race where your on carpet or on a track that is swept clean before the racing begins, then 64 pitch should be fine. If your racing were its pretty dirty, stick with the 48 pitch gears....if you can find some.

Yes the Robinson's and any other standard spur and pinions will fit the car. I suggest Kimbrough spur gears though. They're some of the best around. They're the only kind I use other than the spur that came with the car.

You've pretty much got the idea with the gearing. If you run a 6.0 ratio, you will have high rpm(high speed), shorter runtime, hotter motor and speed control. While if you run the 7.0 ratio you will get more torque(stronger out of the corners), longer runtime, cooler motor and speed control.

BUT, there are somethings to remember about the stuff I mentioned above. First, if you run any kind of cell 2400 and up in stock, your going to make runtime.....period. So runtime isn't something you really need to consider in stock if you have even sport level 2400. Second, if you have a race quality speedo, you don't really have to worry about the heat. As long as your inside the motor limits set by the manufacterer, your safe. But, a hotter motor will result in more frequent rebuilds of your motors.

And to answer your other question about the advantage/disadvantage of using one or the other of the choice of 110/32 or 120/35. Really theres only one advantage that I can think of; if you use the larger spur/pinion combo, you will lower the motor mounting height, which in turn lowers the cars center of gravity which in turn helps with the cars handling. Other than that, I can't really see how it would matter.

Something you MUST consider before deciding on which gearing combos to buy though, is whether or not the combo will fit on the car. In other words, will this huge spur and huge pinion fit together on the spur mount and motor. The motor mount will only let the motor go so low, that means some spur/pinion combos wont fit. Take your car with you to the shop and do an eye test to make sure they'll fit before you spend your $$$!
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Old 01-07-2002, 07:10 AM   #553
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how does the 12 gauge wire that is solder between two 3cell go about....as far as i see it...it should go above the centre belt ...is that correct???if u guys have any pics of your car with the batts on ....i would really appreciate it if it is posted or mail it to me....and also the receiver has to go on top of the servo right???that seems to be the only place available...and does anyone here know whether the team orion active discharger is safe for nimh batts
thanks

Last edited by wiley; 01-07-2002 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 01-07-2002, 09:38 AM   #554
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So sorry but I have to correct my previous post...... On my pinions I mixed up my 48pitch numbers with my 64 pitch! The 48p sizes for pinions should be 23-28 not 33-38....
Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 01-07-2002, 10:39 AM   #555
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wiley: I take my wire over the center belt. But, to keep it from rubbing the belt where the wire is soldered to the right side pack(when viewing the car from the rear), I solder a bent battery bar to the cell and then solder the wire to that. That way my jumper wire is slightly short than it would have to be otherwise, and the wire doesn't get anywhere near the belt. I hope you understand what I'm saying, because I don't have any pics.

As for the reciever, no it doesn't have to be mounted on the servo, and there is a designated spot for it. It goes in the same space as the speedcontrol. This depends slightly on the size of your electronics though. I run a Novak XXL reciever and Tekin G10 speedcontrol(both mounted flat on the chassis) and they both fit in that area with room to spare. The G10 has a pretty big footprint, but still fits great.
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