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Old 09-26-2001, 02:50 PM   #181
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I see that the price for the C4.1 and upgrade kit has dropped on corallyusa. Its about time they stopped listing the retail prices on there. But, this is more than just putting the actual cost there. The price has actually dropped. Its down from $359.00 to $299.00. And the conversion is down to $149.99 from $179.99. Pretty good.
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Old 09-26-2001, 04:58 PM   #182
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kewl...thanks for the posts guys..great to see not too much has differed from our time apart =)

you both have some interesting mods..noticibly the rear short shock bodies mike.r...was there any reason for doing so?..as i have some in my pit box, and havent thought about trying it...by lowering the shock tower to compensate you would also be changing your rear roll centre/camberlink heights..

what was the pully you replaced the oneway with?..the narrow one?..

also i forgot to mention, since i am using the topdeck mod, i have doen away with the belt tensioner all together...as my turnbucle determines the front belt tension, just make sure your belts and pulleys are clean, and free from grease...no skipping so far


I noticed a problem on the weekend, in that on the front of the car, my droop measurements are way out...and when i set them equal...i have less travel on one shock...i am using up stop orings on the shock shafts, so this is really noticable...and when i set the droop equally, i noticed the car behaved weirdly on the track...
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Old 09-26-2001, 05:05 PM   #183
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That is an odd problem King. Once I set everything equal the car is fine.

So why do you use downtravel limiters. What does it do for the handling?
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Old 09-26-2001, 05:22 PM   #184
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they are "up-travel limiters", ive just used some rubber o-rings..(the small black ones which come in the corally small parts assortment bag. just strech them with pliers over the lower ball cup, and onto the shock shaft..i think i have 5 on each shaft..(front only)..

add them until the car just resists scraping on the sides of the chassis when you make it lean by hand...the chassis will still pivot fully forward, so the nose touches off power..

it allows you to run softest springs without the car scraping all of the time..

feels progressive too, kida like an invisible swaybar...

i got this idea from sakke and simos setup sheets...
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Old 09-26-2001, 05:26 PM   #185
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sorry to clarify,, they arent internal limiters...they go on the shock shaft, outside of the body, and seat on the lower spring retainer..
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Old 09-26-2001, 05:27 PM   #186
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I changed to short shocks cos the long ones always bothered me aestheticly. I assumed a more compact shock tower and rear end would be less cg and stronger with less flex. One other mod I did to the shocks was to grind off about 1mm of the top of the shock shaft since it seemed long enough to hit the bladder. It changed the link holes but i like the extra lower options should I need more traction.
For the pulley I used a matching rear belt pulley and just put them face to face. An e clip holds one end in while the regular thumb screw still locks up against the other along with a pin for each pulley. There is a one belt conversion for the x-ray which might be able to work with ours though so all this may be obsolete in a month.

I think your e-clip or something is off because down travel is ok but UP travel is preventing the shocks from compressing evenly. check to see if they compress up to the same measurement after making sure the shocks are the same length left to right....good luck

Well, tomorrow morning I take off to the Road Coarse Nationals so i'll see you all Monday.
Go Corally!!
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Old 09-26-2001, 05:31 PM   #187
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yeah good point, i'll rebuild my shocks tomorrow night and check over it...

good luck with teh wekends racing!..

go corally...go you good thing ...go!
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Old 09-27-2001, 12:27 AM   #188
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Hi there! I noticed that ur using 0.5deg rear anti-squat on ur C4.1 w/ good results. I know this is silly but would the AGLE work better w/ the orig C4 rear bulkhead w/ 0 deg rear anti-squat or that i should use the 3deg rear anti-squat bulkhead that the AGLE came with? I'm still figuring out my AGLE. Thanks
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Old 09-27-2001, 08:54 AM   #189
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blue: Actually I have had success with both of settings. For me it was just a matter of the car being a little more stable with the .5 setting. When I ran the AGLE it seemed to handle just fine with the 3mm setting. I would say run it for a couple of races before you make any serious changes like switching bulkheads.
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Old 09-27-2001, 10:54 AM   #190
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Darkside: Thanks dude! Will do that
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Old 09-27-2001, 02:25 PM   #191
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No problem man. Just remember that the only real way to judge how a car is handling is to put it on the track.

And I mean on the TRACK! Running the car in your driveway or local street does no good. You have to practice where you race. Thats the only way to be sure of how its going to perform.

So try it out and see what it feels like.
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Old 09-28-2001, 05:43 AM   #192
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Darkside: Yeah, i know what u mean. I've been into Rc for more than a decade now so i know there's no substitute for practice and participation in actual races. I recently won a local race (Chameleon Series) usin another brand of car w/c also has pivot-ball design suspension so i'm preety much at home w/ the design of the C4. I'm pretty excited w/ my new car i can't wait to try it out. Thanks again
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Old 09-28-2001, 07:01 AM   #193
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blue: I hope you do well with it.
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Old 09-29-2001, 07:08 AM   #194
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Well this is going to be our last race at the local small track. The racing season here is running out fast?

For the first time, I'm not all that happy with the way Corally sells its parts. It appears that my deal to buy my C4.1, which started way back on Aug. 9, has concluded incomplete and on a down note. That leaves me having to buy the battery straps and body nuts.

What's the problem with Corally? They sell them as a battery mounting kit. Along with the aluminum post and some other crap I don't need. In all its going to cost like 17 bucks! They should just sell the graphite straps by themselves and it would probably have been no more than $10. The price isn't that bad, but I hate buying stuff I don't need.

I got a question for you guys. Because of the same incomplete deal, I'm left trying to decide should I buy the body nuts that I'm missing or not even bother. The question is do you all use the original body post with the body nuts or do you use other types of post all together? I saw in an old R/C issue that someone used the body nuts to set body height, but put holes in the post for body clips to keep the body on. Has any of you ever tried this?
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Old 09-30-2001, 05:06 PM   #195
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i reckon you should buy the corally body posts and nuts...by buying them you will have spares in case you lose any...they are the best method for body mounting i have seen...sooo easy to set body height trackside...

on another note, how was your weekend,,,get some good results?..

i had a day of testing, and i got my droop dilema sorted out, and managed to get the car going consistently well..

on to the topic of tyres...who is using the sorex?...and with which inserts, and compounds...we have a state titles coming up, and the weather is warming up, so which compounds would you recommend for summer conditions?..
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