New VBC Flash-04 F1
#151
Tech Master
Tamiya spurs aren't going to fit in the VBC diff, but if you want to use your collection of Tamiya 0.4 pinions you can replace the diff and axle with Tamiya F104 or 3racing F109 parts
#152
#153
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Ran the car yesterday, had a couple of small issues, but no real problems or broken parts. The traction was high as usual and did a couple of traction rolls, my own fault. Running Pardus tires and need to get the ride height lower in the front end. We ran a 15 minute main with pit stops and motor temp was 118 with gearing at 36-96. I was pretty impressed with the car, very easy to drive. Saw a broken front arm on one, but it was a real hard hit. Looking forward to next weekend for The Grand Finale at The Gate, full UF1 rules, should be a lot of fun.
chuck
chuck
#154
#155
Tech Regular
Ran the car yesterday, had a couple of small issues, but no real problems or broken parts. The traction was high as usual and did a couple of traction rolls, my own fault. Running Pardus tires and need to get the ride height lower in the front end. We ran a 15 minute main with pit stops and motor temp was 118 with gearing at 36-96. I was pretty impressed with the car, very easy to drive. Saw a broken front arm on one, but it was a real hard hit. Looking forward to next weekend for The Grand Finale at The Gate, full UF1 rules, should be a lot of fun.
chuck
chuck
#156
Tech Regular
I'm pondering some aftermarket parts to make for this kit. If there were things you would change or improve upon, what would it be?
I was thinking a 0.25" axle conversion but it may involve many parts.
I previously designed a carbon axle that pinned the diff landing after the bearing so that joint does not bare the stress of an impact directly.
Another thing I want to see is an angled spacer for the upper arm mount or some other way to induce active caster into the upper arms.
I was thinking a 0.25" axle conversion but it may involve many parts.
I previously designed a carbon axle that pinned the diff landing after the bearing so that joint does not bare the stress of an impact directly.
Another thing I want to see is an angled spacer for the upper arm mount or some other way to induce active caster into the upper arms.
#157
Tech Regular
I'm pondering some aftermarket parts to make for this kit. If there were things you would change or improve upon, what would it be?
I was thinking a 0.25" axle conversion but it may involve many parts.
I previously designed a carbon axle that pinned the diff landing after the bearing so that joint does not bare the stress of an impact directly.
Another thing I want to see is an angled spacer for the upper arm mount or some other way to induce active caster into the upper arms.
I was thinking a 0.25" axle conversion but it may involve many parts.
I previously designed a carbon axle that pinned the diff landing after the bearing so that joint does not bare the stress of an impact directly.
Another thing I want to see is an angled spacer for the upper arm mount or some other way to induce active caster into the upper arms.
OOOPS....double post
#158
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Got ready to place an order for just 4 parts and I'm already over $100.
Grant it, 2 of them are rear axles but come on! I thought this car was from the land of low costs (HongKong/ China)
I love the car but I don't think I can afford to race it.
Mine is likely to be up for sale after RROC. Never thought TC would be the more economical class to run.
#159
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
VBC isn't your typical Hong Kong manufacturer as they have a high quality product. It also doesn't help that CRC's prices are a bit high + their site is lame.
I've been purchasing VBC parts from Hong Kong retailers because the shipping costs are barely more than CRC's and the parts are much less expensive.
I've been purchasing VBC parts from Hong Kong retailers because the shipping costs are barely more than CRC's and the parts are much less expensive.
#160
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
VBC isn't your typical Hong Kong manufacturer as they have a high quality product. It also doesn't help that CRC's prices are a bit high + their site is lame.
I've been purchasing VBC parts from Hong Kong retailers because the shipping costs are barely more than CRC's and the parts are much less expensive.
I've been purchasing VBC parts from Hong Kong retailers because the shipping costs are barely more than CRC's and the parts are much less expensive.
I guess I'll have to wait till parts are available at Hong Kong resellers to get more reasonable pricing.
I just forked out $120 to get a few spares then after bodies, tires, motors and batteries, I'm done. I might as well get back into 1/8th nitro onroad.
I've been racing a long time and have accumulated a bunch of stuff so I'm exactly starting from scratch.
Heck, competitive tires are in the $60 a set range and I still have to glue them too?
#161
#163
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Drove mine around our parking lot so far and it pushes really bad at speeds over a few mph. Probably can't tell anything till I get it to the track.
Soft kingpin springs and soft Shimizu fronts with about 0.5mm droop in the front. I had to remove 1mm shim from each Kingpin to get the front to float. is this normal? I can't imagine using the black springs as they seem rock hard.
Oh by the way, has anybody tried shimming the upper arm mount to gain some active caster yet?
#164
+1
Drove mine around our parking lot so far and it pushes really bad at speeds over a few mph. Probably can't tell anything till I get it to the track.
Soft kingpin springs and soft Shimizu fronts with about 0.5mm droop in the front. I had to remove 1mm shim from each Kingpin to get the front to float. is this normal? I can't imagine using the black springs as they seem rock hard.
Oh by the way, has anybody tried shimming the upper arm mount to gain some active caster yet?
Drove mine around our parking lot so far and it pushes really bad at speeds over a few mph. Probably can't tell anything till I get it to the track.
Soft kingpin springs and soft Shimizu fronts with about 0.5mm droop in the front. I had to remove 1mm shim from each Kingpin to get the front to float. is this normal? I can't imagine using the black springs as they seem rock hard.
Oh by the way, has anybody tried shimming the upper arm mount to gain some active caster yet?
your tire selection will have to change also.