Which of these 2 servo's for Sakura Zero S
 

Hi y'all,

Of these two servo's, which would you recommend for steering? This will be raced in the brushed class with the Tamiya J motor. I know of all the other options but for certain reasons I'm just considering these 2 at the moment.

One has more torque but a tad slower, the other the opposite. I'd post links but this dumb forum won't let me because of post count, so I'll have to just give the specs.

Servo #1: 616DMG-HS
Speed: .12
Torque: 136oz
Waterproof (for what it's worth)

Servo #2: HK15298
Speed: .13
Torque: 194oz

Thanks!

Neither. Get one that is at least .10 in speed or faster and you on;y need about 80 to 100oz on torque for TC

Seriously, I mean honestly... really? Did you read my post? Lol. just messin'

But given that I'll go with the faster one. Actually that was my primary question I was getting at - minimum torque.

I think I can be ok with a slightly slower servo for this class. I just won the intermediate main with a .20 response time servo last weekend LOL! When you're not going super fast I think just running consistent laps is usually enough to win. I have a much faster servo in my hotter car for the brushless class.

Would the first servo be a Blue bird servo?

If so I'd say go with that one, I use the 631mg one in a touring car and it's a great servo, sure it's not digital but for the price I can't fault it.
Have been using the blue bird servo for over a year now and I really cant tell the difference in speed & torque between it and my Savox 1251MG digital servo.

Cheers
Rob.

Which one do u have? I been looking at the blue birds for a while but the customer reviews i"ve read had complaints about high current draw and twitching

I have this one - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...10sec_46g.html

They have no stock of it atm but they do have the next model up for $20 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...sec_46_5g.html

As for high current draw & twitching, I have a Spektrum radio so if anything was going to happen it'd definitely would with the Spektrum, and that's also with a personal transponder and lighting kit running off the receiver. :D :p

Cheers
Rob.

The reason I said Neither was because you will experience Lag when going from full Lock to the Other lock that will end you up in the boards. Just this past Sunday a new racer came out to our indoor track with a freshly build Sakura Zero S with a .14 Servo and could not keep it straight.

With a slow servo since your reaction time is much faster you tell the car to stop turning but for a short time it is still turning due to the speed of the servo. which could put you in the wrong spot.

Just trying to save you some hassle

Ya that makes total sense.

I should have probably mentioned that I kind of cheat with my servo's. I use longer than standard servo arms (I run naked - no servo saver - so far so good knock on wood) which makes the servo act 'faster' than it really is if it has decent torque. So for instance, my EPA's on my TB-03 with a .09/135oz servo are 55% in each direction due to the longer arm. That's lock to lock! (of the car's steering system, not the servo itself). It makes the .09 (which I think was overstated to begin with.. a cheap solar servo) feel much much faster. The little things you pick up to race on a budget - LOL

And to answer the other poster, yes, that servo is a Blue Bird.

Or could it have been because he was a new driver with a freshly built and untested/ not set up car?
Or it could be that he was using the included servo saver in the Zero S kit, which is well known to be rubbish and known to cause tracking problems with the car.
Also which type of radio was he using? Was it something like a Flysky which are known to also have "lag" ?

Stating that .04 of a second difference in servo speed is causing a new driver, with a new car steering issues is a little hard to believe.
Maybe the reverse is being applied, maybe the steering is too fast for the new driver?

Using a steering arm instead of a servo saver on a strong metal gear servo isn't too much of a bad thing.
Usually, but not always the plastic spline in the steering arm will strip before the gears in the servo break.

Cheers
Rob.

I have both the 621MG and the 631MG on my two old TA-02s and my Sakura Zero. TBH I can't tell the difference in speed between the two, they're both very quick and centers nicely.. what more can you ask for in a $20 servo.

PS: Yea.. stock Zero S servo saver is crap, I had tracking problems with the stock one before, switched to XRay composite and it's been nice and straight ever since.

I have a Bluebird servo in my M05 and it is a great servo. I currently run something even slower and less powerful in my Sakura but I am not racing it frequently.
Whatever you do, don't buy Turnigy HK1251TG as I bought 3 for testing and all were either faulty or browning out on the test bench. They are all currently back at HK for analysis.

Go with the lightest servo. the sakura is already left side heavy. a light servo will help the balance.