dark_luna

Setup



-Front-
Oil: Team AE 60wt 800cst
Piston: 2 hole
Spring: White
Stabilizer: Blue
Diff: Team AE 100.000cst
Ride height: 5mm
Droop: 4mm
Camber: 1.5 degree
Toe-out: 1 degree
Upper arm specer: 1.5mm

-Rear-
Oil: Team AE 55wt 725cst
Piston: 2 hole
Spring: Blue
Stabilizer: Blue
Diff: Diff grease
Droop: 4mm
Ride height: 5.5mm
Camber: 2 degree
Toe-in: 2 degree
Upper arm specer: 2mm

Gear ratio: 6.46:1
Spur: 77T 48p
Pinion: 31T 48p
Esc: Tekin PS Pro
Motor: Novak Ballistic 17.5T
Tyre: Sorex 28R

stormridersp

Nice setup, great job there dark_luna! Itīs been quite a while that Iīve been searching for an on-road setup for this chassis. Everybody seems to be rallying it mostly (no complains, Iīm a rally fan myself), but I thought it was a good idea to first setup it up for the track and learn it, then move on to gravel. I once heard that a good tarmac car can make a good gravel car, but the opposite is not always true!

Right now, Iīm currently setting my XV-01 PRO for tarmac. I didnt have much time in December when I had it assembled, but now I finally have some free time in my hands and can test it more often.

Tho I had a few RCs before, this is the first time that Iīm actually messing with setups, so I have a few questions if you dont mind sharing some of your solutions:

According to the instructions manual, to the damper's piston shaft is attached a 'short' ball joint, part# V5. What I've found in this setup is that when the dampers are fully compressed to their minimum length, the wheels are already about half way above the chassis level. This means that about half the length of the damper itself is wasted because the chassis is already hitting the ground.

I decided to rebuild some of my older but usable tamiya plastic dampers, mostly from my shelved DF-03ra, using the longer damperīs ball joint and have this dampers set for off-road. It gave a new life to the chassis, but at the same time, it sits very high, about 25mm of ground clearance.

Next, Iīm planning to rebuild the TRF dampers that came with my XV-01 PRO kit, as I said earlier, to use it on-road, with shorter TRF springs, but I reckon that unless I pre-load the springs by lowering the TRF damperīs spring adjustment ring, there will be a gap when the damper is completely extended.

1- How did you build your dampers? Did you use any spacers or o-rings to limit the dampersī travel?

2- I reckon that you figured out how to use those TA-05 sway bars, and as you said, you had to modify the front one slightly. Do you mind if I ask you exactly what and how did you modify?

3- I see that youīre using the slipper clutch. A while back I did some calculations and noticed that by using the 77T slipper spur gear, the max final ratio was your 6.46:1 (31T pinion) which is about the same as the 27T pinion using the stock 68T mod 06 spur, although the final ration can be raised to 6.1:1 on the latter with a 29T mod 06 pinion. Iīm currently running a 3000kv BL motor in mine and so far I didnt have any problems with the gears nor with the belt. The temperatures Iīm getting are also under control: 45C after full 4000mah battery testing session (22T pinion) and 65C running the 26T pinion.

4- Have you done anything to tighten the steering? In mine I have some slack there, tho not so much as the DF-03ra.

Do you feel its really necessary to use the slipper clutch, or are you using it mainly because itīs 48P instead of that weird tamiya mod 06 gears?

Best Regards
Phil

Btw, your chassis looks so neat and organized, good job there!

dark_luna

Thanks Phil

1.
No spacers or limiter needed. I use the short ball joint, when drop are adjusted the length is perfect for onroad setup. I always try to adjust preload, ride height and piston length for minimum spring gap when completely extended. Tuned hard spring set #OP-440 have same length as the original spring.

2.
Front sway bar needs to be shortened and both front and rear needed some adjustment of the angle. #51111 4mm rod ends on suspension arms and the 5mm need to be shortened 2mm. I still waiting for the #53827 Stabilizer rod stoppers I ordered.

3.
I don't think slipper is necessary for onroad but I will not change mine, have some 48p pinions so its convenient. With no slipper you should be able to use all kinds of spur gear as long as it's not to large and the holes are correct.

4.
Yes I also have some slack in the steering but not to much

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I don't feel this car needs a slipper at all. You're not going to be taking huge jumps with this car, like a buggy.

CarbonJoe

Try Boost 40, Turbo 5, Turbo Delay 0.4

dark_luna

Carbon fiber stiffener 2mm

stormridersp

Thanks for all the answers, very, very helpful indeed!

Regarding this carbon stiffener, is it an after market?

dark_luna

No problem Phil, my setup may need some adjustments.
The stiffener are handmade, I also made a carbon fiber front shock tower

stormridersp

Wow man, thats awesome! Do you buy the carbon sheets pre-preg or you make the parts by vacuumning the dry sheets?

dark_luna

I use carbon sheets from Hobbyking.

19T Pulley #SAK-07A from 3Racing works fine (original pulley are 18T), mounted in the rear creates overdrive on front wheels.

stormridersp

Whatīs an overdrive?

dark_luna

Overdrive on front axle, wheels spinning faster than rear axle

More options
#OP-1428 Steel Bevel Gears
#OP-1311 Steel Cross Shaft
#OP-1372 Direct Coupling (Spool 52T)

stormridersp

Does it drive better with the front wheels spinning faster?

dark_luna

Well I think it depend on driver, track condition and overall setup, It's a tuning option that some other models offer.
Tamiya does not describe this in the manual and I have not found that they sell the pully as option.
The 19T pully I found is for 3racing Sakura but works for XV-01 as well, fun to test different setups

Raman

iTrader: (94)

You can also use these white derlin pulleys from Tamiya.

53989 18T Pulleys Derlin

They're for the 501x, but also used on TA06 pro.

For the spur gear carrier, you can use the aluminium one from FF03 as well.