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Old 02-01-2013, 12:05 PM   #121
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Hehe I don't know. I also have some problem with snow in the steering but that's after may be 10 min, and when it happens I also have to wait for it to melt. I notice that the weather have to be cold, below 0C otherwise snow build up in the chassis very quickly and the car gets to heavy.
Yeah I wouldn't want to drive it in the sticky wet slush at 0C. When I ran it is was colder though. I'll probably go and try again at some point, because sliding around kicking up clouds of snow was really fun while it lasted
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:33 PM   #122
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Yeah I wouldn't want to drive it in the sticky wet slush at 0C. When I ran it is was colder though. I'll probably go and try again at some point, because sliding around kicking up clouds of snow was really fun while it lasted
Close the hole on bottom of chassis and create a lexan cover over servo.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:22 AM   #123
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Close the hole on bottom of chassis and create a lexan cover over servo.
The problem is not at the servo, but at the Ackerman mechanism (steering arms and steering bridge). At the first run there was also buildup at the servo, but then I just made a cover out of duct tape, and it got better.

I think most of the snow entered the steering mechanism at the opening for the turnbuckles. I tried making some flaps out of duct tape to shield, but it didn't really do any good. I don't think much snow entered from the holes in the underside, closing them would just make sure that snow cannot get out at all.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:00 PM   #124
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The problem is not at the servo, but at the Ackerman mechanism (steering arms and steering bridge). At the first run there was also buildup at the servo, but then I just made a cover out of duct tape, and it got better.

I think most of the snow entered the steering mechanism at the opening for the turnbuckles. I tried making some flaps out of duct tape to shield, but it didn't really do any good. I don't think much snow entered from the holes in the underside, closing them would just make sure that snow cannot get out at all.
I see what you mean. Here is a crazy thought... Try making the flaps out of a rubber material, like a wiper system. As the turnbuckles move, it wipes snow off.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:38 PM   #125
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Yes mask and gloves are good to use when cutting carbon fiber

The Tamiya wheel spacer (blue #53646 and red #53646) are great, depend on the depth of the rims hex you can easily add 0.5mm, 1mm, 1,5mm, 2mm offset or more. Tamiya rims usual have deeper hex (you can add more spacers) then for example Schumacher Rev-Lite rims but you can still add some.
Pardon my ignorance, but doesn't positive wheel offset usually mean the wheel sits closer to the brake calipers? So, when I'm looking at these road wheels, and they say "3mm offset", would that mean they're closer to the outside of the body than 0mm offset, or further away?

Edit: pardon the n00b question. I'm thinking of getting the XV-01 kit and I'm starting to do my homework
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:43 PM   #126
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Pardon my ignorance, but doesn't positive wheel offset usually mean the wheel sits closer to the brake calipers? So, when I'm looking at these road wheels, and they say "3mm offset", would that mean they're closer to the outside of the body than 0mm offset, or further away?

Edit: pardon the n00b question. I'm thinking of getting the XV-01 kit and I'm starting to do my homework
In the RC world, positive offset makes it wider.

190mm chassis with 0 offset = 190mm
190mm with 3mm offset = 196mm
etc.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:26 PM   #127
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In the RC world, positive offset makes it wider.

190mm chassis with 0 offset = 190mm
190mm with 3mm offset = 196mm
etc.
Oh man, glad I asked! Thank you for that clarification

So, would the Tamiya Evo body fit ok, or is it too long? Tamiya part number 51376 (can't post a link yet).

I know everyone likes their STIs, but I drive an Evo
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:06 PM   #128
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Oh man, glad I asked! Thank you for that clarification

So, would the Tamiya Evo body fit ok, or is it too long? Tamiya part number 51376 (can't post a link yet).

I know everyone likes their STIs, but I drive an Evo
Yes it will fit. Even the wheels do no have offset, you can compensate with the wheel hex's on the axle. They come in different widths.. ranging from 4 mm to 6 mm.

This is the six mm
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53569
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:22 PM   #129
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I'm starting a shopping list for my Tower order. For once, I don't want to "upgrade" anything prior to actually running the kit and wearing/breaking said parts. But... are there things I really should upgrade right away?

The only things I have in my list are the steel bevel gears and shafts, namely 54428 and 54311. Is there any other drivetrain plastic I should worry about? I hate paying for shipping, so trying to order this all at once
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:30 PM   #130
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Personally.. I have stayed with original diff gears. They are lighter.

If you plan on running on dirt, I would recommend the carbon reinfored JJ parts.. 54445

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXCZUS&P=K

The suspension shaft mounts are kind of weak and break easily. The carbon reinforced version is much better. Id also recommend 53989 18T Pulleys Derlin, much better and smoother than stock plastic ones.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:14 AM   #131
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I'm starting a shopping list for my Tower order. For once, I don't want to "upgrade" anything prior to actually running the kit and wearing/breaking said parts. But... are there things I really should upgrade right away?

The only things I have in my list are the steel bevel gears and shafts, namely 54428 and 54311. Is there any other drivetrain plastic I should worry about? I hate paying for shipping, so trying to order this all at once
IMO there is one thing that really needs changing. Its not the plastic gear, they can handle a lot of power. Its those plastic suspension arms mounts with their aluminium replacements:
  • Tamiya XV-01 Aluminum Suspension Mount XJ #54379
    Tamiya XV-01 Separate Suspension Mounts (1XJ) #54376
    Tamiya XV-01 Separate Suspension Mounts (1XM) #54377

You can try as Raman noted, the J&JJ reinforced parts spruce, they're tough too, but not as rigid as aluminium, tho they come with some other handy parts like the susps towers and spur gear's mount.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:38 PM   #132
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I broke my front XJ mount (single piece) and am now running the Alu 54379. I decided to behave and not buy all of them at once, only as need (eg once the break)

I wish Tamiya had designed the XV-01 to use the same mounts as the TB03/TA05. I have a nice variety of those in my tool box.

I did a comparison, the mount holes for chassis are the same, but the XV-01's are much narrower.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:36 PM   #133
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Well, I have my shopping cart ready... about to pull the trigger, but I have a question. If I go with the Evo body (#51376), which is 187mm wide, which would give me a more flush wheel look, 3mm offset or 6mm offset 26mm wheels? I have no idea how to do the math on that one
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:02 AM   #134
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Well, I have my shopping cart ready... about to pull the trigger, but I have a question. If I go with the Evo body (#51376), which is 187mm wide, which would give me a more flush wheel look, 3mm offset or 6mm offset 26mm wheels? I have no idea how to do the math on that one
Zero offset. The chassis is already '190mm' so you don't want any offset with a 187mm body. This is my Tamiya Evo 7 (about 187mm wide too) with standard 0 offset rims on an XV-01. Are you going the Rally look, or the on road look with yours? (I think you answered that in a different thread, chasing decals, didn't you?)
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:09 AM   #135
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Are you going the Rally look, or the on road look with yours?
If you're going the rally version, check out the Stage Scale Rally thread Scale Stage R/C Rally for more info on rally set up. Where we are now, seems to be more on road orientated.
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