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Old 12-31-2016, 09:29 PM   #1291
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So don't take apart your XV-01. Build a second one as a rally car someday.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:09 PM   #1292
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So don't take apart your XV-01. Build a second one as a rally car someday.
I went back and read my posts about my conversation, I think you are right. It is already pretty perfect. The wide arms make for such an awesome tracking car. Suspension flex is the way I like it. Why go and mess with a good thing.

I can make a monster out of the TA05 with xv-01 parts. Hahahahaha!!!!

Then eventually get enough parts to build another xv-01.

Yes. This is what I will do.
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Old 01-08-2017, 12:37 PM   #1293
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Guys, I have a question. Over the weekend, I have realized that my camber links are much higher on the side of the chassis compared to the stock car. That's because balls for the cambers links are mounted on top of the upper plate, which in turn goes into rear diff housing, omitting the plastic part where you normally screw the balls (and which puts them like 10mm lower).

So, my links instead of being lower on the side of chassis, compared to the hub side, were higher there, so they were slopping towards the wheels (instead towards the chassis). As far as I can find, this is definitely not recommended, as it brings very weird handling.

Since I can't fix the chassis that quickly (although I will, eventually), I have decided to fix it for now by raising the link on the hub side to the point when it is no longer lower than on the chassis side. It looks like this:


It is fairly rigid, and I have used very good and long screw, so I'm not really concerned that it will come off (or wiggle). I'm more interested in your opinion regarding whether this is a good solution, or if I can expect some side effect (and what they might be).

Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2017, 12:44 PM   #1294
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Originally Posted by haplm View Post
Guys, I have a question. Over the weekend, I have realized that my camber links are much higher on the side of the chassis compared to the stock car. That's because balls for the cambers links are mounted on top of the upper plate, which in turn goes into rear diff housing, omitting the plastic part where you normally screw the balls (and which puts them like 10mm lower).

So, my links instead of being lower on the side of chassis, compared to the hub side, were higher there, so they were slopping towards the wheels (instead towards the chassis). As far as I can find, this is definitely not recommended, as it brings very weird handling.

Since I can't fix the chassis that quickly (although I will, eventually), I have decided to fix it for now by raising the link on the hub side to the point when it is no longer lower than on the chassis side. It looks like this:


It is fairly rigid, and I have used very good and long screw, so I'm not really concerned that it will come off (or wiggle). I'm more interested in your opinion regarding whether this is a good solution, or if I can expect some side effect (and what they might be).

Thanks!
are you able to install the inner link under the carbon piece... Could by a better option than raising the upright with those spacers
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Old 01-08-2017, 12:55 PM   #1295
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are you able to install the inner link under the carbon piece... Could by a better option than raising the upright with those spacers
I was going to suggest that too. Though for the amount of travel that chassis is able to handle, I think the ball end under the carbon might inhibit its upward swing.

I think that in the interim this should be a very good solution minus the negligible weight at the hub. The solution allows for proper camber gain when the suspension is compressed.
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:03 PM   #1296
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are you able to install the inner link under the carbon piece... Could by a better option than raising the upright with those spacers
That was the first thing I have tried. Unfortunately it doesn't work at all. The angle of the link on the chassis side is so steep, that the shock doesn't fully compress, so the chassis can't be pushed to the ground. The link also hits the chassis, so even more flexible link won't cut it.

Obvious solution is to modify the upper plate so it can be connected to the stock plastic piece carrying both ball joints. But that means that I need to dismantle the whole car again, and replace the top plate. I will most probably do it at some point, but I'm curious if I can get away with this solution for now.

BTW - I have already discovered one limitation - since it is so high, I can't use 0 or +3mm offset wheels. I need at least +6mm in the rear, otherwise the wheel is rubbing risen camber link mount. I can live with that, today I have boiled all my tires mounted on <6mm offset wheels, and made them free :-). Kudos to HPI for their wheels - all survived, tires came off easily. Cheap eBay wheels - not really. The glue somehow melted them together with the tires, so the tires wouldn't come off. Fortunately that was minority of what I have in my "garage".
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:12 PM   #1297
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I was going to suggest that too. Though for the amount of travel that chassis is able to handle, I think the ball end under the carbon might inhibit its upward swing.

I think that in the interim this should be a very good solution minus the negligible weight at the hub. The solution allows for proper camber gain when the suspension is compressed.
You can get all the ride height you want with the ball below the chassis (over 30mm) ;-). Unfortunately you can't really compress the shocks, which kills it completely...

I also hope that it is a good interim solution, unless somebody knows more than I have managed to read so far :-). I which case I would really have to start over.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:52 PM   #1298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haplm View Post
Guys, I have a question. Over the weekend, I have realized that my camber links are much higher on the side of the chassis compared to the stock car. That's because balls for the cambers links are mounted on top of the upper plate, which in turn goes into rear diff housing, omitting the plastic part where you normally screw the balls (and which puts them like 10mm lower).

So, my links instead of being lower on the side of chassis, compared to the hub side, were higher there, so they were slopping towards the wheels (instead towards the chassis). As far as I can find, this is definitely not recommended, as it brings very weird handling.

Since I can't fix the chassis that quickly (although I will, eventually), I have decided to fix it for now by raising the link on the hub side to the point when it is no longer lower than on the chassis side. It looks like this:


It is fairly rigid, and I have used very good and long screw, so I'm not really concerned that it will come off (or wiggle). I'm more interested in your opinion regarding whether this is a good solution, or if I can expect some side effect (and what they might be).

Thanks!
Just mount the inboard pivot balls on the underside of the upper deck, instead of on the top side. That will lower them significantly.

EDIT: You say that won't work, but I can't see why not. The ball-end has equal range of movement in all directions.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:53 PM   #1299
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Just mount the inboard pivot balls on the underside of the upper deck, instead of on the top side. That will lower them significantly.
That option has already been discussed
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:06 PM   #1300
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I saw. I edited my post.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:38 PM   #1301
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Default Xv-01 compared to a Ta-05

So I had the pleasure of winning a bid for a TA-05 mid-mount motor touring chassis.

Upon driving the TA05 I immediately noticed how different these cars handle.

The mid-mount motor chassis is extremely predictable when turing. It pivots the way you would expect it to, from its center. The xv-01 pivots from its nose and the tail swings around. It's no wonder for competition driving, mid-mount motors are preferred. To be fair my TA05 has a silver can vs my xv-01 has 13.5 brushless.

Now, I by no means prefer the TA05 over the xv-01. I have invested a lot of time into my xv-01 getting to to handle the way I like. My xv-01 sticks corners now, but only after many hours of trial and error (my first on road car) and endless tuning. It does drive like a real car. I love it. For realism, the xv-01 takes the cake. You can apply all you've learned with your xv-01 to your 1:1 AWD car. The xv-01 is still the best chassis for unprepared tarmac due to its dust and rock protection.

I look forward to tuning the TA05 and comparing the two chassis some more.
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:36 PM   #1302
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
Just mount the inboard pivot balls on the underside of the upper deck, instead of on the top side. That will lower them significantly.

EDIT: You say that won't work, but I can't see why not. The ball-end has equal range of movement in all directions.
There are two reasons. First is that the link is probably little bit lower than it can be on the chassis side. But even if that could be solved, the main problem is, that when it goes up, it inevitably hits edge of the chassis. And that can't be solved by milling, because there's simply not enough carbon to mill...
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:36 AM   #1303
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For the first time I weighed the xv-01 vs the TA05. There is difference of more than 200g. Maybe it's my brushless vs brushed (lighter) electronics, but 200g+ is significantly heavier. This is without the fenders.

The xv-01 would be a heffer in full fender armor.

I think the tub chassis with all of its sealing is the major contributor, that and the 2 sealed transmissions on both ends. Suspension components should be almost the same.

The xv-01 is a cross over chassis, no doubt about that now. Maybe I'll put some big tires on it today.

Last edited by 4roller; 01-15-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:53 PM   #1304
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Default XV-01 TC-T




Touring Car (Suspension) - Truck (super sticky 90mm OD MST crawler tires)

After trying large tire shenanigans on the TA05, I decided to try this on the xv-01. I must say it is sooooo fun. Turbo and 13.5t brushless is way crazy. The tires aren't glued so on the first pass, I had 2 tires rolling down the street after trying to make a high speed U-turn. Silly.

The power plant is overly sufficient. Acceleration is great. But the tires are so big and heavy that I had my belt was skipping, needless to say, this is where the slipper clutch is so useful. I might have to gear down to accommodate the larger tire diameter.

The huge tires don't rub on steering lock. Cornering (when the tires stayed on the wheels) is surprisingly decent. I might need to loosen up the front differential a little to make cornering a little smoother, I can hear the front tires gripping pretty hard. I am not sure if it will flip coming in at full speed, again tires de-rimmed at 1/3 speed. But this set up is very promising for all around ruckusing. A vehicle able to handle tall grass.

Suspension is my previously converted xv-01'TC and TRF 55mm dampers, with firm springs. I think the stock xv-01 springs (soft) and 60mm length would be perfect.

As we all know, the xv-01 is front heavy, you can really tell when entering a turn or braking. The nose dives quite a bit, the high side wall tires don't help. As a consequence, I will have to fabricate a front bumper because it's quite dangerous hitting curbs. Front heavy, motor and gearbox first. This thing needs a body, any suggestions?

Cross over FTW. Great play chassis.

Last edited by 4roller; 01-15-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:12 PM   #1305
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looks like fun...

i have a xv01 tc and it's so much fun in stock form on-road, that i dont want to ruin it by using it as a rally car...need to look for another xv01 for rally use...
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