Raman

iTrader: (94)

I had assumed the same. On Tamiyaclub forum everyone also assumed it was not capable of handling jumps because of the front motor.

I still have not overcome the challenge of getting sufficient grip on the rear. I believe the best point of reference would be the FF03 forum.

dark_luna

Yes I bend the tabs otherwise I had to mount the motor more tilted forward like Raman did.


They are Speedmind RT-28 medium compound, there is soft also.
Very nice tyre good grip on rugged is and snow and pretty sure whey work good on gravel too.

That's impressive jumping for this kit!

dark_luna

Great! A little pricey though, over 70$ with the adapter

stormridersp

I read your post at FF03 official thread. Although I can control it nicely on a high grip tarmac, I too struggle with lack of rear grip when running on a low grip, smooth concrete which is covered by a thin layer of dust.

After your post I did a little research and found one old page with great rally handling technicals, which is worth reading.
http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/4wd_turbo_cars1.html

After reading it, I put a few adjustments of my own to test. Knowing that my XV-01, set low and stiff for tarmac, displays a typical front motor, AWD handling characteristic, there is, understeering when entering a turn and overstereering when exiting, I felt that solution was understanding why this happens. It can basically be explained by the weight transfer (front/rear) and body-roll (side to side), probably augmented when the car is set for off-roads, high ride height, soft suspension, low damping.

The first thing I tried that helped was to increase the ESC´s drag brake from null to ~25%. Playing with it while inside the corner can help fine distribute the weight front/rear. To counter the body roll, I´ve increased the rear camber so more tire surface comes into contact with the ground providing more grip.

One last thing that I believe helped was to increase the damping and slowing the weight transfers and body roll.

Besides I guess the most important thing I´d learned was in regards with my driving style. Understanding its handling characteristics and adapting to it is half the way there. What I do now is to brake late to avoid understeering and playing with acceleration and drag brake to control oversteering.


Hope this helps.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Tamiya blue is never cheap. Check with Banzai hobby .. Their prices are 30 to 40% lower compared to US. Not sure of euro

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Thank you very much. Will give it a read and try it out.

I realised a mistake that I made while at the track. Car camber was initially set up with short shock ends. At the track I switched to the longer shock ends for more travel, which changes the camber. When I arrived at home, I put my car back on set up station and sure enough the longer shock ends erased my rear camber of - 2,0 to 0 camber! Front was not as bad. I've decided that I'm going to keep the car with the longer shock ends and not mess with going back and forth.

How much droop are you running in front?

stormridersp

I´m running 3mm droop front an rear, same as dark_luna, tho I´m not sure if I did this adjustment right.

I´m running 1 tamiya red damper´s o-ring inside the dampers and 1 outside to limit their travel lenght, and followed David Jun´s droop measurement technique while adjusting that suspension´s arms screws to the desired ride height. Some called this ride height adjustment, some called it droop, so I´m not really sure.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=413

I also don´t like to change too much the dampers´ ball ends. So scavanged some other tamiya kits laying around for their plastic dampers and for each set of dampers I created a different setup. So now I have my TRFs that came with the pro kit built with short ball ends and stiff for smooth on-roads, and 2 plastic dampers sets, built with the longer ball ends, one for rough parking lot and the other strickly for off-roads. This way I don´t have to mess and scratch the damper´s shaft all the time when I need to change its ball ends.

stormridersp

5g lighter only by changing the stock battery compartment´s cover with the new carbon reinforced cover. There´re also all the other lighter K&KK parts that came with it yet to change. Besides, these parts are quite more rigid than the originals.

Still on weight savings, another 88g saved after switching from a Nanotech 5.3 hardcase 2s battery, to a lighter 4000mah soft case 2s Skylipo. Unfortunately, I´m afraid that only hardcase lipos are allowed for competition.

dark_luna

More slow motion bashing

+ YouTube Video

cheba

How do you even do that? I have tried taking mine out for a spin in the snow, but I can only run a couple of minutes before snow builds up inside the chassis at the steering mechanism, preventing the steering arms from moving fully and taking away most of the steering capability. Sure the chassis is a little snowy, but I have to stop way before I get to the point as shown in your picture. Have you taken any measures to prevent this or is it just me?

Also I can't seem to get the snow out of the steering easily without taking the car inside and wait for it to melt while scraping with a tiny screwdriver. This really sucks because I bought it in November and haven't yet get to drive it more than a couple of minutes because of the snow!

Also I was wondering about the long shock ends some of you are using. It seems to me that using longer shock ends would cause problems in the front, causing binding with the turnbuckles hitting the lower suspension mounts when shocks are extended, unless you limit the droop quite a lot?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Here is a photo of the hop ups displayed at Nürnberg Toy Fair

stormridersp

Nice front suspension stay!!! I only wished it had some more holes in the vertical axis too!

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I noticed that as well. Stock tower has from damper standing straight up. There doesn't seem to be much room given the placement of the tower relative to gear box for more holes.

jjjheimer

iTrader: (2)

You can try one of the new Reedy shorty packs as well to help with the weight balancing.

http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/602/

dark_luna

Hehe I don't know. I also have some problem with snow in the steering but that's after may be 10 min, and when it happens I also have to wait for it to melt. I notice that the weather have to be cold, below 0°C otherwise snow build up in the chassis very quickly and the car gets to heavy.

That looks like a nice shorty, but I ordered two Turnigy Nano-Tech 4200mah 65C Shorty for 34$ each