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Old 01-28-2013, 11:50 AM   #106
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That is impressive indeed. I had the preconception that the front motor chassis would be totally unbalanced for jumping.
I had assumed the same. On Tamiyaclub forum everyone also assumed it was not capable of handling jumps because of the front motor.

I still have not overcome the challenge of getting sufficient grip on the rear. I believe the best point of reference would be the FF03 forum.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:10 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by Forgetful_Duck View Post
Dark Luna

Did you at the start, bend the Novak motor solder tabs up to make them straight in order to clear the plastic motor cage?

I'm about to start my Xv-01 build too, and really wanted to put a 10.5 Novak on. Not sure if it will fit with those tabs on the back.
Yes I bend the tabs otherwise I had to mount the motor more tilted forward like Raman did.


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I like your tyres.. What brand are they?

Today I visited this 1/8 scale track. http://revrace.com/
They are Speedmind RT-28 medium compound, there is soft also.
Very nice tyre good grip on rugged is and snow and pretty sure whey work good on gravel too.

That's impressive jumping for this kit!
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:37 AM   #108
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Something interesting I learned. The TRF201 guys are running the XV-01 rear hubs, because it has multiple holes to adjust roll centre on camber link. So I assume the opposite is true, we can run the TRF201 rear hubs. The advantage is that they will give us different toe angles. At the moment there is only one XV-01 suspension blocks , so its not possible to vary rear toe.

0 degree
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54254

0,5 degree
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54245

1,0 degree
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54246

Camber link adapter, gives additional options for changing roll centre
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54405
Great! A little pricey though, over 70$ with the adapter
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
I had assumed the same. On Tamiyaclub forum everyone also assumed it was not capable of handling jumps because of the front motor.

I still have not overcome the challenge of getting sufficient grip on the rear. I believe the best point of reference would be the FF03 forum.
I read your post at FF03 official thread. Although I can control it nicely on a high grip tarmac, I too struggle with lack of rear grip when running on a low grip, smooth concrete which is covered by a thin layer of dust.

After your post I did a little research and found one old page with great rally handling technicals, which is worth reading.
http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/4wd_turbo_cars1.html

After reading it, I put a few adjustments of my own to test. Knowing that my XV-01, set low and stiff for tarmac, displays a typical front motor, AWD handling characteristic, there is, understeering when entering a turn and overstereering when exiting, I felt that solution was understanding why this happens. It can basically be explained by the weight transfer (front/rear) and body-roll (side to side), probably augmented when the car is set for off-roads, high ride height, soft suspension, low damping.

The first thing I tried that helped was to increase the ESCīs drag brake from null to ~25%. Playing with it while inside the corner can help fine distribute the weight front/rear. To counter the body roll, Iīve increased the rear camber so more tire surface comes into contact with the ground providing more grip.

One last thing that I believe helped was to increase the damping and slowing the weight transfers and body roll.

Besides I guess the most important thing Iīd learned was in regards with my driving style. Understanding its handling characteristics and adapting to it is half the way there. What I do now is to brake late to avoid understeering and playing with acceleration and drag brake to control oversteering.


Hope this helps.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:27 PM   #110
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Great! A little pricey though, over 70$ with the adapter
Tamiya blue is never cheap. Check with Banzai hobby .. Their prices are 30 to 40% lower compared to US. Not sure of euro
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:36 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by stormridersp View Post
I read your post at FF03 official thread. Although I can control it nicely on a high grip tarmac, I too struggle with lack of rear grip when running on a low grip, smooth concrete which is covered by a thin layer of dust.

After your post I did a little research and found one old page with great rally handling technicals, which is worth reading.
http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/4wd_turbo_cars1.html

After reading it, I put a few adjustments of my own to test. Knowing that my XV-01, set low and stiff for tarmac, displays a typical front motor, AWD handling characteristic, there is, understeering when entering a turn and overstereering when exiting, I felt that solution was understanding why this happens. It can basically be explained by the weight transfer (front/rear) and body-roll (side to side), probably augmented when the car is set for off-roads, high ride height, soft suspension, low damping.

The first thing I tried that helped was to increase the ESCīs drag brake from null to ~25%. Playing with it while inside the corner can help fine distribute the weight front/rear. To counter the body roll, Iīve increased the rear camber so more tire surface comes into contact with the ground providing more grip.

One last thing that I believe helped was to increase the damping and slowing the weight transfers and body roll.

Besides I guess the most important thing Iīd learned was in regards with my driving style. Understanding its handling characteristics and adapting to it is half the way there. What I do now is to brake late to avoid understeering and playing with acceleration and drag brake to control oversteering.


Hope this helps.
Thank you very much. Will give it a read and try it out.

I realised a mistake that I made while at the track. Car camber was initially set up with short shock ends. At the track I switched to the longer shock ends for more travel, which changes the camber. When I arrived at home, I put my car back on set up station and sure enough the longer shock ends erased my rear camber of - 2,0 to 0 camber! Front was not as bad. I've decided that I'm going to keep the car with the longer shock ends and not mess with going back and forth.

How much droop are you running in front?
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:47 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Thank you very much. Will give it a read and try it out.

I realised a mistake that I made while at the track. Car camber was initially set up with short shock ends. At the track I switched to the longer shock ends for more travel, which changes the camber. When I arrived at home, I put my car back on set up station and sure enough the longer shock ends erased my rear camber of - 2,0 to 0 camber! Front was not as bad. I've decided that I'm going to keep the car with the longer shock ends and not mess with going back and forth.

How much droop are you running in front?
Iīm running 3mm droop front an rear, same as dark_luna, tho Iīm not sure if I did this adjustment right.

Iīm running 1 tamiya red damperīs o-ring inside the dampers and 1 outside to limit their travel lenght, and followed David Junīs droop measurement technique while adjusting that suspensionīs arms screws to the desired ride height. Some called this ride height adjustment, some called it droop, so Iīm not really sure.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=413

I also donīt like to change too much the dampersī ball ends. So scavanged some other tamiya kits laying around for their plastic dampers and for each set of dampers I created a different setup. So now I have my TRFs that came with the pro kit built with short ball ends and stiff for smooth on-roads, and 2 plastic dampers sets, built with the longer ball ends, one for rough parking lot and the other strickly for off-roads. This way I donīt have to mess and scratch the damperīs shaft all the time when I need to change its ball ends.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:15 AM   #113
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5g lighter only by changing the stock battery compartmentīs cover with the new carbon reinforced cover. Thereīre also all the other lighter K&KK parts that came with it yet to change. Besides, these parts are quite more rigid than the originals.

Still on weight savings, another 88g saved after switching from a Nanotech 5.3 hardcase 2s battery, to a lighter 4000mah soft case 2s Skylipo. Unfortunately, Iīm afraid that only hardcase lipos are allowed for competition.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:01 PM   #114
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More slow motion bashing

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:20 PM   #115
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Frosty
How do you even do that? I have tried taking mine out for a spin in the snow, but I can only run a couple of minutes before snow builds up inside the chassis at the steering mechanism, preventing the steering arms from moving fully and taking away most of the steering capability. Sure the chassis is a little snowy, but I have to stop way before I get to the point as shown in your picture. Have you taken any measures to prevent this or is it just me?

Also I can't seem to get the snow out of the steering easily without taking the car inside and wait for it to melt while scraping with a tiny screwdriver. This really sucks because I bought it in November and haven't yet get to drive it more than a couple of minutes because of the snow!

Also I was wondering about the long shock ends some of you are using. It seems to me that using longer shock ends would cause problems in the front, causing binding with the turnbuckles hitting the lower suspension mounts when shocks are extended, unless you limit the droop quite a lot?
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:37 PM   #116
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Default XV-01 Hop Ups

Here is a photo of the hop ups displayed at Nürnberg Toy Fair
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Tamiya XV-01-tamiya-nuremberg-fair-2013-221.jpg  
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:28 AM   #117
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Here is a photo of the hop ups displayed at Nürnberg Toy Fair
Nice front suspension stay!!! I only wished it had some more holes in the vertical axis too!
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:59 PM   #118
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Nice front suspension stay!!! I only wished it had some more holes in the vertical axis too!
I noticed that as well. Stock tower has from damper standing straight up. There doesn't seem to be much room given the placement of the tower relative to gear box for more holes.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:39 PM   #119
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You can try one of the new Reedy shorty packs as well to help with the weight balancing.

http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/602/
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:51 AM   #120
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How do you even do that? I have tried taking mine out for a spin in the snow, but I can only run a couple of minutes before snow builds up inside the chassis at the steering mechanism, preventing the steering arms from moving fully and taking away most of the steering capability. Sure the chassis is a little snowy, but I have to stop way before I get to the point as shown in your picture. Have you taken any measures to prevent this or is it just me?

Also I can't seem to get the snow out of the steering easily without taking the car inside and wait for it to melt while scraping with a tiny screwdriver. This really sucks because I bought it in November and haven't yet get to drive it more than a couple of minutes because of the snow!
Hehe I don't know. I also have some problem with snow in the steering but that's after may be 10 min, and when it happens I also have to wait for it to melt. I notice that the weather have to be cold, below 0°C otherwise snow build up in the chassis very quickly and the car gets to heavy.

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You can try one of the new Reedy shorty packs as well to help with the weight balancing.

http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/602/
That looks like a nice shorty, but I ordered two Turnigy Nano-Tech 4200mah 65C Shorty for 34$ each
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