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Old 09-11-2016, 03:21 PM   #976
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Default Slicks on dust



So this happened during an on power slide out into a parked car tire. The slicks I am trying out have very thick rubber, which I think would be excellent for bashing longevity. However because the rubber is so thick, the tire has less "Cush", and feels much harder. And because they are slick, they just slide sideways really easily on dusty roads. I guess that's why radials are recommended for asphalt.

I was able to salvage the tire from the busted rim, and put onto another salvaged rim with the same offset.

After this happened, I was thinking about grooving and sipping these tires for giggles.

I'll be ordering HPI rims for the future. With either Ride radials or HPI X-patterns.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:14 AM   #977
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*crunch*
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:54 AM   #978
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*crunch*
Yes. Crunch!
To be fair, that same wheel hit the curb, the previous run, and there was were some fractures. The second collision just made for a much more exciting result. I can't believe ALL the spokes would break off from the rim, like pre cut stress points. Maybe the engineer designed it to do that. So your car wouldn't break.

Anyway, at least now I can save the rubbers by using the minimal glue technique. I am also going to try heat gunning tires to get them off the rims.

Had anyone tried this?
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:12 AM   #979
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Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer for performance, but due to the lack of flex they're actually more likely to break in a crash. It sounds like the plastic flexed too much here though allowing the hinge pin to pop out.
I think you're right about that. I didbuy the 54447 parts, so yeah they're carbon reinforced now.

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I didn't know that rally cars were acrobats. Doing cartwheels, show off
The passersby were very impressed at the carnage. Everyone had a good laugh, myself included. Part of the fun of RC

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I usually do CVDs all around, because they work better than dogbones. On my Tamiya touring cars (including my XV-01s), I put CVDs on the rear and DCDs on the front. I tried CVDs on the front briefly, but the amount of suspension articulation caused the tiny touring-car wheels to vibrate like crazy in sharp corners. DCDs solved that.
Oooh DCDs, hadn't even heard of that one! I'll check it out thanks!
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:38 PM   #980
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Double Cardan Driveshafts. Not sure what exactly Tamiya calls them. You'll need to replace the inboard bearings on the steering knuckles with 5x10x3 instead of 5x10x4 in order to make room for the DCDs, but you can get those bearings from Associated so they don't cost very much.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:33 PM   #981
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I'll be ordering HPI rims for the future. With either Ride radials or HPI X-patterns.
I have both X-patterns and Super Radials V-Groove Pro, and the super radials are definitely better (tons of grip). However, being super soft wet tire, I'm a bit afraid that the durability won't be that high. However, if carefully used for (tarmac rally) racing, nothing can beat it, IMO.
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:48 PM   #982
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I don't think they're actually wet-weather tires. Team Schumacher makes rain tires though, and those things are practically like gum.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:30 PM   #983
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After watching some euro rc rally racing, I decided to go for a couple of spins with the car lifted.





Can anyone tell me the affect of moving the steering columns between these two positions? I am pointing at them with the screwdriver tip.

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Old 09-16-2016, 02:44 AM   #984
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Moving it to the rear position improves clearance of the steering links past the toe blocks and increases the steering Ackerman so the inside wheel turns more sharply than it would otherwise.

I run all of mine in the rear position.
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:54 AM   #985
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Moving it to the rear position improves clearance of the steering links past the toe blocks and increases the steering Ackerman so the inside wheel turns more sharply than it would otherwise.

I run all of mine in the rear position.
Ah yes. Thank you for that. I did notice, that when I lifted the suspension, they ball ends started rubbing more.

I looked up how Ackerman works. And well, I will be moving it back to the rear spot like the stock build.

Is there any advantage to have them at the forward location?
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:12 AM   #986
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Ah yes. Thank you for that. I did notice, that when I lifted the suspension, they ball ends started rubbing more.

I looked up how Ackerman works. And well, I will be moving it back to the rear spot like the stock build.

Is there any advantage to have them at the forward location?
Less Ackermann usually has a more aggressive steering feeling. It's a useful tuning option.
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:02 PM   #987
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I don't think they're actually wet-weather tires. Team Schumacher makes rain tires though, and those things are practically like gum.
I've got that impression after reading following paragraph on HPI site that I can't link:

"In wet conditions, the V-Groove Super Radial not only looks fast, it IS fast! Directing surface water away from the contact patch is the main purpose of a rain tire, and that's what the V-Groove does best. It's also extra-soft, so in the low temperatures of wet-weather racing it provides extra grip exactly where you need it".

However, I haven't had a chance to test them in wet conditions yet.

BTW, by those Schumacher tire for wet conditions you mean XG-RAIN, right? Maybe "Rain" is more than "Wet" ;-).
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:10 PM   #988
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After watching some euro rc rally racing, I decided to go for a couple of spins with the car lifted.
This is my mod for euro rc rally racing. Carbon chassis + crazy tractor tires + gmade shocks + waterproof pretty much everything:



Slight disadvantage is, that you have to brutally trim the body:



And this is how I prevent dirt (and some wet) to go inside:

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Old 09-16-2016, 11:44 PM   #989
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Wowow! That thing looks fierce with those tractor tires and body lifted so high. Custom carbon fibre chassis? Or available only in euro market?

How do you like those Pirelli like tires? Good for asphalt?
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:50 PM   #990
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Here is the difference in Ackerman, top is with the posts in the forward position.

The stock position (bottom image) has slightly more inside wheel angle.

I rebuilt it back to factory spec and remember why I moved the posts forward. It was because I was having that servo issue. The stock servo turn buckle is a little too long for the Kimbrough servo saver and moving the posts forward gave me a little more wiggle room for adjustments. You might notice the ball joint has been popped off in the second image for the aforementioned reason. Otherwise when connected, the servo saver spring housing limits the steering one way.

Last edited by 4roller; 09-17-2016 at 12:07 AM.
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