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Old 09-08-2016, 06:37 AM   #961
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There's an inconspicuous donut-shaped piece on the NN parts tree -- NN12 according to the online manual -- that I stumbled across while trying to find a way to fit that spur onto the slipper shaft. I don't know for sure what NN12 was originally meant for, but given that it's the perfect fit for this application (the hole in the spur is English whereas the slipper shaft is Metric), I find it hard to believe it wasn't intended for this purpose.
Oh wow! I'll have to dig in my parts bin for that special piece. I pulled off all the extra parts after the build was complete, so I should have it somewhere. If it's one of the trees that I got with carbon upgrades for, then I should have a spare too. Thanks!

If the spurs are flat, I will just sandwich them locked. Good to know if I ever want to go 69 or under.

As for torque control, maybe I will practice my hand at more drift to learn that feather touch throttle control technique. Or just cheat with the slipper 😂

I've always thought shaft driven cars were more rugged. But learned that belts are more energy efficient than gears.

For a while I was hoping for a TB05, but they kept making Tb04s evo such-and-such. I finally conceded that the xv-01 was the way to go. So successful is the single belt, they designed the ta07, which is also and interesting bit of engineering.

Now that the car is geared pretty high, I'll have to find something else to tweak. In the world of rc, there is never an end to mucking. 🚗
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:07 AM   #962
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+1 although I did lose a clip spring once, I don't know how, but luckily they supply 3 in the package, one for spare.
Those little rings and pins are the number one thing I loose on my track. Little tiny rocks get in there and the next thing you know, you're in 3wd...
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:33 PM   #963
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Yeah, belts are way more efficient. The 4WD entire drivetrain can be transverse, with no right-angle gears needed anywhere. My TA-05 v2 has two gears, two center pulleys, and two diff pulleys -- no greased parts anywhere in the drivetrain. (grease makes things heavier, you know. ) Belt-drive bicycles are also more efficient, though the lack of shiftable gears is a problem for most riding conditions, so chains are used as a compromise.

Associated makes a 69-tooth slipper-compatible spur that fits just fine. You only need to look at custom solutions if you want to go below 69t.

If you want more things to tweak, you can always get another XV-01 kit and build it differently. That's what I did...four times.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:47 PM   #964
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There's an inconspicuous donut-shaped piece on the NN parts tree -- NN12 according to the online manual -- that I stumbled across while trying to find a way to fit that spur onto the slipper shaft. I don't know for sure what NN12 was originally meant for, but given that it's the perfect fit for this application (the hole in the spur is English whereas the slipper shaft is Metric), I find it hard to believe it wasn't intended for this purpose.
I found something that fits exactly in the center of the spur, JJ6 the center hole looks like it might be a little big though, didn't try because I don't want to take apart my slipper again. But it fits nice and snug in the spur.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:56 PM   #965
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Associated makes a 69-tooth slipper-compatible spur that fits just fine. You only need to look at custom solutions if you want to go below 69t.

If you want more things to tweak, you can always get another XV-01 kit and build it differently. That's what I did...four times.

Yes I saw that Associated makes them. Didn't find one until now, I should have just got the kimbrough 69T !!! I don't know why I was bent on a Jconcepts one. Ugh. Oh well they are only 6 bones... I can swing that.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:56 PM   #966
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Those little rings and pins are the number one thing I loose on my track. Little tiny rocks get in there and the next thing you know, you're in 3wd...
Do you have them oriented the right way around? The exposed tip of the spring-clip is supposed to point towards the back of the car when it's rotated to the top of the CVD joint, so it won't catch on stuff and get pulled off.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:58 AM   #967
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that hinge pin spacer is 2.6 mm too.. pita to find.. lost the doggy bone as well huh?
Yes, it's gone. I spent like 20 minutes looking for the driveshaft to no avail. I somehow knew the hingepin was more special/rare. Glad I found it.

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One of many good reasons to use CVDs. Nothing to lose.
Yes, if i lose another shaft I'll be doing CVDs on at least one gearbox. Speaking of which, does one usually do CVDs on the front only?
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:14 AM   #968
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Yes, it's gone. I spent like 20 minutes looking for the driveshaft to no avail. I somehow knew the hingepin was more special/rare. Glad I found it.


Yes, if i lose another shaft I'll be doing CVDs on at least one gearbox. Speaking of which, does one usually do CVDs on the front only?
CVDs on the rear are a good idea too, but front ones are definitely more important.
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:18 AM   #969
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Yes, it's gone. I spent like 20 minutes looking for the driveshaft to no avail. I somehow knew the hingepin was more special/rare. Glad I found it.


Yes, if i lose another shaft I'll be doing CVDs on at least one gearbox. Speaking of which, does one usually do CVDs on the front only?
Well in the meantime, you have your choice of running FWD or RWD, which i have been meaning to try, but having the CVDs makes it a little harder to do.

I didn't know the hinge pins were a special size.

How did the hinge pin pop out? Was it from a broken suspension mount?
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:58 AM   #970
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Well in the meantime, you have your choice of running FWD or RWD, which i have been meaning to try, but having the CVDs makes it a little harder to do.

I didn't know the hinge pins were a special size.

How did the hinge pin pop out? Was it from a broken suspension mount?
Well since you asked. The car did a few very violent cartwheels after rolling.

I surmise since the lower control arm mounts (chassis/JJ3) were still in place that the impact on the right rear wheel knocked out the hingepin bushings/spacers (NN2/NN23) which lets the hingepin loose which in turn let the lower control arm loose which in turn allowed the driveshaft to exit the car.

I'm electing not to drive it FWD/RWD because without any hingepin bushings on that corner, the hingepin will just roam around and cause horrible handling.. and could elongate/distort its mounting holes.

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:56 AM   #971
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Well since you asked. The car did a few very violent cartwheels after rolling.

I surmise since the lower control arm mounts (chassis/JJ3) were still in place that the impact on the right rear wheel knocked out the hingepin bushings/spacers (NN2/NN23) which lets the hingepin loose which in turn let the lower control arm loose which in turn allowed the driveshaft to exit the car.

I'm electing not to drive it FWD/RWD because without any hingepin bushings on that corner, the hingepin will just roam around and cause horrible handling.. and could elongate/distort its mounting holes.

I'd suggest if you break any more plastic parts to get the carbon reinforced parts tree for the replacement. They are much more resilient and cheaper than the aluminum pieces.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:05 PM   #972
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I'd suggest if you break any more plastic parts to get the carbon reinforced parts tree for the replacement. They are much more resilient and cheaper than the aluminum pieces.
Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer for performance, but due to the lack of flex they're actually more likely to break in a crash. It sounds like the plastic flexed too much here though allowing the hinge pin to pop out.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:12 PM   #973
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Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer for performance, but due to the lack of flex they're actually more likely to break in a crash. It sounds like the plastic flexed too much here though allowing the hinge pin to pop out.
Fair enough.

Though, if I had to do it all over again, I think just getting the carbon reinforced parts would have saved me over 50 dollars. It's nice to have bling, but the car just works.

I didn't know that rally cars were acrobats. Doing cartwheels, show off
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:09 PM   #974
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The new low FDR 4.9:1 (low compared to anything remotely stock ~8:1) has completely changed how this car drives.

It's not as zippy as before, which is to be expected. The acceleration is a little more drawn out. It is definitely not as pow-pow I-do-what-I-want wheel-spinny on-demand power. But still plenty enough to lose control if you are treating the throttle like a light switch.

Top end is blistering with turbos. I think this car can hit 50+ MPH. Only I cannot do it on my street anymore, because it is still accelerating by the time I need to slow down. I will have to find a drag strip somewhere to do a real speed run.


The car feels foreign to me. I am much more hesitant to drive the car like a newbie teenager at the wheel of an over powered vehicle. The car isn't as balanced, acceleration and deceleration has changed. Like stretching an elastic band.

The new lower gear ratio makes the car accelerate a little slower, and coast much longer. It covers more distance than it did before on and off power. I would say this ratio setup would probably be good for a big sweeping turn track.

Which is why it makes me feel like my street is now more restrictive.

Anyway, just another way to to train ones reflexes.

Last edited by 4roller; 09-09-2016 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:55 AM   #975
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Yes, it's gone. I spent like 20 minutes looking for the driveshaft to no avail. I somehow knew the hingepin was more special/rare. Glad I found it.

Yes, if i lose another shaft I'll be doing CVDs on at least one gearbox. Speaking of which, does one usually do CVDs on the front only?
I usually do CVDs all around, because they work better than dogbones. On my Tamiya tourinc cars (including my XV-01s), I put CVDs on the rear and DCDs on the front. I tried CVDs on the front briefly, but the amount of suspension articulation caused the tiny touring-car wheels to vibrate like crazy in sharp corners. DCDs solved that.

The only place I still use dogbones by choice is on the rear axle of my DF-03Ra. The rear axle is swept forward to achieve a proper touring-car wheelbase, because the underlying chassis comes from a buggy, and having mismatched axle joints (dogbones on the inboard ends and CVDs on the outboard ends) caused severe vibrations, so I switched back to dogbones on the rear axle. The DF-03Ra is the only vehicle I've ever run that actually needed dogbones to work right, though; the rest I upgrade to CVDs (or sometimes universal-joints on the rear axle only) as soon as I can.
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