fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I don't know what those exact tires are, but HPI Super Radials are comparable.

When making body-post holes, I find it helpful to balance the body on the posts, figure out how much to cut off the posts to get the body to sit level (not at final height, just level), make the necessary cuts on the body posts, and THEN center the body on the chassis and mark the hole locations. I screwed up a couple bodies thinking that the hole locations would be "close enough" if the body wasn't sitting level above the chassis; I was wrong.

4roller

Yes, level is the key. The Tamiya hatchback body came with dimples, the HPI sedan body was a guessing game. I realized after what I should have done was set the body beside the car with the tires in the wheel wells, then draw square sight lines onto the lexan. Fore/aft holes would have been dead on.

Side to side is much easier after that, and can pretty much be eye balled by setting the body directly on top of the posts using the fore aft lines as guides. X marks the spot.

My masking job was pretty bad in some places. I got some spray through. always burnish edges after taking off you layers of masking!!! Since this body already has 'extra' holes, and a less than perfect, albeit satisfactory paint job, it will be deemed the beater. Decals go on tonight.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Even the dimples are never exactly right. The body posts are never perfectly vertical, and the chassis is never perfectly square, so the dimples are at best a close approximation of the correct spot to cut the body post holes.

I don't do complicated paint schemes, but occasionally I've gotten a bit of overspray onto a window surface. I figured out I could use a Q-Tip soaked with Goof Off to remove the overspray, but I have exactly one swipe to remove as much as possible, because a second swipe will smear the Lexan.

4roller

HPI BMW M3 GT, once removed the overstay film, it look a lot better. Decals help cover up some of the mistakes.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Shiny! Needs wider-offset wheels in the back, though. Looks like it might need +6mm in the rear, and maybe +3mm in the front.

longuylander

iTrader: (7)

Hey folks. I have a NIB minus the outer wrapping XV01T (all parts are still wrapped). Everything included, looking for $150. PM me if you're interested.

4roller

Definitely. Wider offset with this body is needed. I'd probably go with 6mm all around so I can get hella flush or poke happening. Because race car.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Poke adds drag though.

4roller

Poke = street cred steez 😎

I ran my car at 25 degree boost, and 1 degree of motor timing. The car flies. Way too much top end for these narrow car parked, low grip streets. When the boost kicks in, you can see and hear the car buck a little because the tires are expanding. I haven't been able to run this thing wide open to get to top speed, it's still accelerating before I have to slow down. The motor gets pretty hot too. How to keep cool? What heatsink/fan would fit?

For sane driving, I dialed it back to 8 degrees. And increased my punch to 20/30 and 30/30.

Fyrstormer, what tires and rims do you have on your xv-01 minivan?

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I have two sets of tires for the minivan right now; HPI Super Radials on HPI Split Six wheels for dry weather, and Team Schumacher Shimizu rain tire premounts for wet weather. The Shimizu tires are impressively sticky; they grip wet pavement about as well as the Super Radials grip dry pavement. I suspect they might do well in the winter too, when it's freezing-cold and the super-soft rubber firms up a bit.

At the speeds you're going, I'd recommend the V-Groove tires or the RiDE USGT tires. They have better grip. I have the V-Grooves on all of my 40mph+ cars, except for my RS4 M3 rally car which uses Pirelli Rally tires (and rarely hits 40mph, and has a gyro to help it at high speed), and my RS4 Viper which uses vintage X-Pattern belted tires.

4roller

I've always wondered if the f1 wheels and tires would fit on this car, they always look really cool, with the mega high sidewall and all. I'll keep my USGT tires for now.

How about some motor cooling? Does the ff03 fan work on this car without modification? Do you have any recommendations?

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

My front-motor XV-01s are all brushed, and they all have endbell cooling fans attached.

Looking at my FF-03 shelf-queen, the design of the front bumper brace is different, so the FF-03 fan mount won't work. You might be able to find a fan mount that snaps onto the motor itself without smacking into the gearbox, but I don't know for sure. Hot Racing makes a snap-on fan mount that might work.

4roller

Today I crashed my XV-01 pretty hard.

I found a wide open street to drive on. And somehow my RC ended up under a parked cars' tire. I really had to crouch down use my weight to dislodge the car. It was stuck in there pretty good.

I broke was the front carbon reinforced A-arm, bent a steering tie-rod. I thought I bent the universal joint. But instead deformed the front rim, which is no longer usable. So all in all not so bad. I had some spare bits.

I'll have to get a pair of rims to replace the destroyed one. The tires are still pretty new. Has anyone used the Acetone method of removing tires from rims? I'd hate to waste money on new rims and tires, even though I have 2-3 sets coming from China, who knows when.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I use the acetone method all the time. It works well on some HPI tires, but Tamiya tires and other HPI tires shrink when the acetone dissolves oil out of the tires. Losi/Vaterra tires just disintegrate into goop when soaked in acetone.

Tamiya wheels are made of ABS plastic instead of nylon, and will dissolve in acetone. HPI wheels are fine though.

4roller

I guess we'll see what happens to the rims, foams and tires. The gravity RC rims seem to be made of not-nylon, more like a brittle plastic like those red beer cups. I am surprised they didn't break on impact, just warped.