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Old 07-07-2016, 11:18 AM   #811
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Default Double Cardan Joint Shafts

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All of the XV-01s can be fitted with CVDs in the rear and double-cardan driveshafts (DCDs) in the front. The TC version takes 44mm rear CVDs and 44mm front DCDs, and the other versions take 39mm rear CVDs and 42mm front DCDs. They can also use CVDs in the front, of course, but I prefer DCDs because they don't rattle the front suspension when cornering. DCDs will require slightly thinner 5x10x3mm inboard front wheel bearings to provide extra clearance for the DCDs. Team Associated sells these bearings so you don't have to buy them from Tamiya.
@fyrstormer (or anybody else who knows), I'm just building my XV-01, and I'm not sure which parts should I replace in the #42216 kit to get the 42mm DCJS that will fit the regular (Team Arai) XV-01 kit. Or better, what is the right part list to get what I need? Can you help, please?
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:37 AM   #812
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I believe it is part number 42239, which are just the long bones, but in the shorter and necessary 42mm length. You will also need the full set of 42216 to complete the dcj.

I think you could also bypass getting the extra 44mm bones if you used 1x 42218 axles, 1x 42221 cross joint and 1x 42239 42mm bones, 1x 42220 bearings. This should save you about 20 bucks I think, as you aren't also buying the 44mm dcj bones which you will probably never use
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:36 PM   #813
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Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for! I'll post some pictures once I have the car built, I may have few interesting details there :-)
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #814
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alrighty. I had thought about getting the dcj as an upgrade for my xv01, and these were the parts that I had picked out.
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Old 07-09-2016, 06:23 AM   #815
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As the Panda said, you need part numbers 42218, 42221, and 42239. You also need part number 42219, which is the outer shells for the DCJs. You also need a pair of 5x10x3mm bearings for the inboard bearings on the front hubs. They allow the necessary extra clearance for the DCJs to fit. Team Associated sells them, so don't waste money buying the Tamiya ones from overseas.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:33 PM   #816
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Hi all,

I thought i'd heard most about most of the upgrades for the XV but these DCD's are news to me!
Can anyone explain what the key benefits are?
I have one XV for rally which has the long travel suspension towers and another for drifting so i'd be interested in how these work for up and down travel (rally) and whether they increase steering angle (drifting).

Did someone mention they also reduce chatter in the front when under power at full lock?

Also if buying in pieces would the dogbones from the standard CVD's fit? I already have those...

Many thanks!
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:54 PM   #817
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The angular velocity profile of a double-cardan joint is perfectly symmetrical on the input and output sides, meaning the axles won't chatter when the wheels are turned. The only other axle joint that achieves this is the Rzeppa joint, but those are extremely rare in RC. Also they allow the axles to articulate more than single-cardan joints (commonly referred to as CVDs, though not actually constant-velocity as the acronym suggests), so the vehicle can steer more sharply. With DCDs installed you no longer need the steering-limiter screws installed in the front hubs.

The pieces from the standard CVDs won't fit. However, they only offer a meaningful benefit in the front, so there wouldn't be any point in replacing the rear CVDs. That means you'd only need to buy 2 instead of 4.

I have them on all of my XV-01s, road and rally, and they work great. I built one with CVDs in the front to save money and ultimately decided to switch it to DCDs like the rest. The tiny touring-car-size wheels and tires don't have enough inertia to damp the vibrations caused by the CVDs in sharp corners, unlike a monster truck for example, so the difference is definitely noticeable.
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:53 AM   #818
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Appreciate that - cheers!
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:30 PM   #819
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Default Back into RC - XV-01 my first re-introduction

Hi All,

After 20 years away from the hobby. I decided to get back into it. I bought myself a Tamiya XV-01 Subaru WRX STI. I have to say it was very fun building up this model. I am glad to see people are still playing with this chassis/car. I love how the car handles, very realistic (that is if the car had 600hp in 1:1)



I was dreading the paint, thinking I would mess it up pretty bad. But I think it ended up pretty nice. I basically did most of the hopups that the rc-crawlers thread outlined. Slipper, aluminum suspension blocks, carbon reinforced bits. I really love this car!
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:05 PM   #820
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Looks good!

I think the XV-01 will be around for a while. It can do things other cars can't do.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:54 PM   #821
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Tamiya recently has not released any 1/10 bodies that I have been to my liking, so I decided to give Killerbody a go.

I'm very impressed with their quality. their attention to detail is on par with Tamiya. Infact their Lancia Delta Integrale body has much more detail than the Tamiya version.. I'll give Tamiya a pass thought since it was designed back in 1992

so for today, I'll post pictures of my new body for the USGT class, Alfa Romeo TZ3 Corsa. I attempted to do an Italian flag / stripe down the length of the body, which turned out like doggy doo doo (in case their are children reading)







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Old 07-12-2016, 08:54 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Tamiya recently has not released any 1/10 bodies that I have been to my liking, so I decided to give Killerbody a go.

I'm very impressed with their quality. their attention to detail is on par with Tamiya. Infact their Lancia Delta Integrale body has much more detail than the Tamiya version.. I'll give Tamiya a pass thought since it was designed back in 1992
I think it looks rather good. I especially like the 4 leaf clover It looks like a difficult body to mask. That rear end has all sorts of strange curves. But I guess thats Alfa Romeo sports car style.
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:37 PM   #823
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Default Street Setup for XV-01?

Do many of you xv-01 drivers roll your cars on the street, like in front of your homes on dusty asphalt, busted up concrete sidewalks? dusty leaf ridden tarmac?

I'm trying to find some setups other people run for the street where its mostly good traction, but you'll get the occasional dust, soot, leaves, gravel, dirt, rocks, grass cuttings and garbage patches (yeah I've run over a sock, some napkins, and I think there was a hair weave once.)

I'll outline what I am currently running, I am new to setting up road cars see? I used to run 2wd buggies/stadium trucks a looong time ago. Think back when stadium truck and RC10T's were a thing I'd like to hear what other peoples setups are like

Tires:
What kind of tires have you found work well and last a decent amount for tarmac? I am not racing (since Tamiya California is over 1hour away from my residence.) I am currently running HPI x-patten D-compounds. Great tires, for like 5-8 runs, after which they get pretty worn out and coated in street dust effectively loosing sideways traction. I've done by best to set up my camber for even wear on the streets. But doing donuts is too fun, and my tires are beginning to cone.

I have my car set up pretty low, like ~7mm or something. I've fitted the hard sway on the front and softest on the rear. This helps a with the oversteer. But I occasionally fishtail out of corners. I think my servo is a little slow. Futaba s3003 I am getting a faster servo soon, so that should help. What ride height do you all suggest?

Suspension:
I am running the stock CVA dampers, springs and oil. I might be imagining things, but I think my car is a little lower on the esc/receiver/servo side. does anyone else have this issue? it's about 1-2mm lower than the batter side. I tried to compensate by putting a few more shock collar shims, but this threw the spring rate off by too much and the car seems like it was driving weird. Anyone have a remedy for this?

I am contemplating on dropping the $$$ on Tamiya TRF dampers. Everywhere I've read, says they're the best. But will it be that much of an upgrade? My economic self says, no. I can already set ride height, and the damping seems sufficient for how I've been running. However. I read that the TRF Dampers (Tamiya 42102) are a little longer than the stock ones. 55mm for CVA (eyelet to eyelet) vs 61mm for the TRF dampers, which will help with setting up the car with more max ride height (without using the long damper ends) and better droop/sag. I know there are 3racing and Yeah Racing damper options. But I know I'll kick myself for not getting what is suppose to be the the end all of dampers. Is the TRF suspension worth it, or just hot-bling-candy-love? What is your suspension set up like for the street?

Power plant:
I am currently running a 5000mah 2s Lipo and a 13.5T brushless motor. I haven't even looked at the manual for the ESC or adjusted motor timing yet since, there is plenty of power. I am running a slipper which I believe is a 77T 48pitch and also a 24T pinion, I also have a 26T pinion which I will try for more top end. What gear ratio are you all running?

Anyway.

TLDR: What are your street bashing setups like? for Suspension, Electronics, Gearing, Tires?

Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #824
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All of mine run on pavement sometimes, two of them are pavement-specific. I use HPI Pirelli Rally S-compound tires for the rally cars, HPI Super Radial tires for one of the road cars, and HPI V-Groove Pro Compound tires for the other road car. (it's the fastest and lowest of the bunch.)

I run whatever ride-height the shocks allow. The rally cars use long dampers and the road cars use short dampers. The faster road car also has a wider wheelbase and road-specific suspension arms, so its ride height is slightly lower than the other road car. My experience with TRF dampers is they're the same length as the stock CVA dampers, but the Teflon pistons and Teflon slider bushings make them respond more smoothly than the CVA dampers. Also the titanium-nitride coating on the TRF shafts holds up better over time.

Do you have the tuning spring kit for your XV-01? It helps a lot. I put the stiffest springs in the front and the medium springs in the rear. I also have 80wt shock oil in the front and 30wt in the rear. I'm using the same swaybar setup as you.

My XV-01s all use Hitec HS-8775MG coreless servos, and all but one are running brushed motors. The fastest one is running a 4000KV sensorless brushless motor.

The problem you're having with the uneven ride height could be caused by one of two things, in my experience:

1) The chassis is tweaked because all of the reinforcements that attach the front and rear diff cases to the main chassis are held in-place with lots of screws, and they might be slightly misaligned; if the underside of the chassis looks twisted, loosen the screws on the rear camber-link mount and the front upper brace, twist the chassis in the appropriate direction, and retighten the screws while keeping the chassis twisted. Repeat as necessary until the underside of the chassis is flat.

2) The shock towers could be slightly crooked. Loosen the shock tower screws, pull up on the shock towers (as if the chassis were hanging off the shock towers, which it is), and retighten the screws.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4roller View Post
I think it looks rather good. I especially like the 4 leaf clover It looks like a difficult body to mask. That rear end has all sorts of strange curves. But I guess thats Alfa Romeo sports car style.
Thanks! I did a better job on masking the tail black vs white than the Italian flag... Which is a straight line lol.

The 1:1 version is by designed Zagato. Their signature design typically has a double bubble roof, and a cam tail / cut off.

I tested the body on carpet yesterday, it actually drove pretty nice. I need to work on rear grip a little bit more.. I'm hoping to avoid the need for a rear wing which would kill the looks of the body.

Unfortunately the transition from RCGT to USGT has watered down the original intend of the class, scale realism, bodies with detail and normal paint. class is starting to look like a Norma TC class.. Bodies painted with flames.. Most running protoform which are unlicensed bodies that look like the real car
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