Kyosho Touring Car
#1786
#1787
Given that I know for a fact that the suspension on this car needs softer springs than any other car, and especially at the front, this setup is insane and doesn't make any sense unless for foam...
#1788
No the tamiya grey are a foam carpet tyre and are 20.9lbs, while the blue are 14lbs.
Given that I know for a fact that the suspension on this car needs softer springs than any other car, and especially at the front, this setup is insane and doesn't make any sense unless for foam...
Given that I know for a fact that the suspension on this car needs softer springs than any other car, and especially at the front, this setup is insane and doesn't make any sense unless for foam...
#1789
Well it won't work over here that's for sure. Maybe your high bite tarmac has a lot more grip than ours, i don't know, but what i can tell you is that running those springs is like running 30lbs/17lbs on a cyclone or tamiya, which isn't really what you want. I have tried Adachi's euro setup which is very similar to that and it was horrible, understeering like there's no tomorrow.
#1790
It works try it.....you wont be disappointed....just run the kyosho springs...blue front , yellow rear I think
#1791
I just told you I tried Adachi's setup which is really similar to that and it was rubbish. Maybe it works on the stallion but on the Shin it pushes like there's no tomorrow. The roll centers are way too high, especially at the front. the one thing i'll try is the diff position, it might help a little raising the diffs.
#1792
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
hey does anyone think that Kyosho will ever release extra option parts for their current electric cars much like XRAY, Team Magic, Associated or will they rely on other companies such as 3racing etc... to produce hop up parts.
As i know i have seen in various pics of Team Drivers Cars that they have different parts but they never seem to be distributed to the public, or will Kyosho just wait a long time then bring out another car.
As i know i have seen in various pics of Team Drivers Cars that they have different parts but they never seem to be distributed to the public, or will Kyosho just wait a long time then bring out another car.
#1793
What type of option parts are you looking for?
hey does anyone think that Kyosho will ever release extra option parts for their current electric cars much like XRAY, Team Magic, Associated or will they rely on other companies such as 3racing etc... to produce hop up parts.
As i know i have seen in various pics of Team Drivers Cars that they have different parts but they never seem to be distributed to the public, or will Kyosho just wait a long time then bring out another car.
As i know i have seen in various pics of Team Drivers Cars that they have different parts but they never seem to be distributed to the public, or will Kyosho just wait a long time then bring out another car.
#1795
Tech Initiate
I think Kyosho will release a new car instead of hopupping the Shin edition.
You guys should try Tamiya 415 steering blocks and C-hubs. I've tried it many times and it has better steering than with the Kyo blocks because of the change in ackermann. With Tamiya steering blocks your outer wheel will turn in more than with the Kyo blocks wich gives you more steering true the corner.
I also run the std Stallion arms in the rear of the car instead of the shorter Shin arms, i made the car smaller at the rear ( B inside at the front and A normal at the rear, wich results in 3deg to in ). and put the longer arms on to get the same with as the std Shin arms.
You guys should try Tamiya 415 steering blocks and C-hubs. I've tried it many times and it has better steering than with the Kyo blocks because of the change in ackermann. With Tamiya steering blocks your outer wheel will turn in more than with the Kyo blocks wich gives you more steering true the corner.
I also run the std Stallion arms in the rear of the car instead of the shorter Shin arms, i made the car smaller at the rear ( B inside at the front and A normal at the rear, wich results in 3deg to in ). and put the longer arms on to get the same with as the std Shin arms.
#1796
I think Kyosho will release a new car instead of hopupping the Shin edition.
You guys should try Tamiya 415 steering blocks and C-hubs. I've tried it many times and it has better steering than with the Kyo blocks because of the change in ackermann. With Tamiya steering blocks your outer wheel will turn in more than with the Kyo blocks wich gives you more steering true the corner.
I also run the std Stallion arms in the rear of the car instead of the shorter Shin arms, i made the car smaller at the rear ( B inside at the front and A normal at the rear, wich results in 3deg to in ). and put the longer arms on to get the same with as the std Shin arms.
You guys should try Tamiya 415 steering blocks and C-hubs. I've tried it many times and it has better steering than with the Kyo blocks because of the change in ackermann. With Tamiya steering blocks your outer wheel will turn in more than with the Kyo blocks wich gives you more steering true the corner.
I also run the std Stallion arms in the rear of the car instead of the shorter Shin arms, i made the car smaller at the rear ( B inside at the front and A normal at the rear, wich results in 3deg to in ). and put the longer arms on to get the same with as the std Shin arms.
To increase steering I have found that making a slight modification to the way the king pins are mounted works very well. Basically I flipped the flanged tube so that it is mounted from beneath the C-Hub like on the Tamiya, and add a 1mm spacer on top of the steering knuckle. This drops the roll centre drastically. You would need to alter the droop by 1mm, and to add 1mm of spacers under the ball joints of the steering turnbuckles on the bellcrank side too.
#1797
Tech Initiate
I've almost tried everything with the std Kyo steering blocks but nothing seems to work that great as the tamiya blocks do.
Mounting the flanged tubes from underneath could work indeed, never tried that before. Maybe when i've got plenty of spare time on the track i'll give it a try!
Mounting the flanged tubes from underneath could work indeed, never tried that before. Maybe when i've got plenty of spare time on the track i'll give it a try!
#1798
If you have a Shin you might want to try this setup:
FRONT
camber 1.5
neutral toe
short camber link, 3.5mm under turnbuckle
inverted king pin
0mm under blocks
out-D, out-B (1 degree in board toe out)
1mm behind front wishbone, 2mm in front,
ackermann forward-C, 1,5mm under the ball nuts on bellcrank side, inverted ball nuts on the knuckle side, rear hole on the knuckle,
standard shock position,
HPI blue springs (hot weather) or tamiya yellow (cool weather), 45W oil on std pistons,
REAR
camber 1.5, 3.5mm under turnbuckles bulkhead side, standard holes,
Rear toe: 2 degrees (top of my head I have C-C in the car, needs checking),
wheelbase as standard,
same spring as front, 35W oil same piston,
1mm under toe blocks f/r
This is a 5-cell mod setup but I suspect it will work for 6-cell as well. Basically the idea is to drop the front roll centre as it's way too high as standard, get rid of the bump steer and excessive ackermann as much as possible.
Also do not be surprised by the soft springs settings, the wheel rates on this car are way higher than on any other cars on the market, so do not hesitate to use your softest springs. I NEVER use tamiya yellow ever but on this car they seem to work, I'd planned on trying the reds but it was a bit warm for that last time out.
FRONT
camber 1.5
neutral toe
short camber link, 3.5mm under turnbuckle
inverted king pin
0mm under blocks
out-D, out-B (1 degree in board toe out)
1mm behind front wishbone, 2mm in front,
ackermann forward-C, 1,5mm under the ball nuts on bellcrank side, inverted ball nuts on the knuckle side, rear hole on the knuckle,
standard shock position,
HPI blue springs (hot weather) or tamiya yellow (cool weather), 45W oil on std pistons,
REAR
camber 1.5, 3.5mm under turnbuckles bulkhead side, standard holes,
Rear toe: 2 degrees (top of my head I have C-C in the car, needs checking),
wheelbase as standard,
same spring as front, 35W oil same piston,
1mm under toe blocks f/r
This is a 5-cell mod setup but I suspect it will work for 6-cell as well. Basically the idea is to drop the front roll centre as it's way too high as standard, get rid of the bump steer and excessive ackermann as much as possible.
Also do not be surprised by the soft springs settings, the wheel rates on this car are way higher than on any other cars on the market, so do not hesitate to use your softest springs. I NEVER use tamiya yellow ever but on this car they seem to work, I'd planned on trying the reds but it was a bit warm for that last time out.
#1799
Tech Initiate
Today at the nat's i discovered a new well working change in the setup. The Kyosho rear hubs have a bit offset, due to this offset you are losing grip at the rear.
I tried Xray rear hubs and it worked out really well, when running Kyosho hubs the car was stable to 3/4th of the corner and than slips away. After i mounted the Xray rear hubs the car was way more stable and much more easier to drive. Only thing you need to change is your with of the pivot blocks, instead of running B ( inside ) and A( normal ) i had to run F-F ( outside ) ( because the Xray hubs don't have offset and the kyo does )
I tried Xray rear hubs and it worked out really well, when running Kyosho hubs the car was stable to 3/4th of the corner and than slips away. After i mounted the Xray rear hubs the car was way more stable and much more easier to drive. Only thing you need to change is your with of the pivot blocks, instead of running B ( inside ) and A( normal ) i had to run F-F ( outside ) ( because the Xray hubs don't have offset and the kyo does )
#1800
The reason the car breaks loose mid corner is the excessive camber change, you should try the setup i've just posted...