strong

I'll try to get one of the guys to take some video.....I can only take photos and I haven't posted picture in so long I will have to read up on how to do it again.I know what I am saying about the oneway has been said many times before but It's so much fun for me to add upgrades or do something to get more out of this great car........I just have to tell someone.

dragnse7en

Yahhhh!!!!!! You got me a little interested but I need to see it. (fever panic)

dragnse7en

Oh also reverse is only 2WD just like braking. What's more of a bear?

strong

dragnse7en

I have officially gone over a grand in budget for my ride.

I will post the pics in the future retired car (maybe not }~<

strong

Well today a guy at my track with an Xray was talking the same talk.......But he could not beat my TA05.......And look I know he should be beating me like a drum but he is not a great builder and can"t tune either.......So right now the TA05 is holding it's corner.......The diffs are better than the oneway also....Took a day of racing to fine that out......Need some tip to beat a serpent......

dragnse7en

Thank you. I agree. The one way diffs kill the rest of the car. I talked to someone who has the front one way, but he didn't realize the sacrifice on one end VS the benefit of the other.

If you wanna upgrade your diff, get CrNi diff balls or TuCr balls (I'm no science major the periodic table abbreviations might be off) but . . . .

Get Ceramic Nitride or Tungsten Carbide diff balls. I haven't had any more wear on the diff plates (actually lesss wear). Less wear too - I have only needed to polish my diff plates in 2 years - why is everyone crying?

strong

I'm a littel sarcastic at times...........I have the cheap ceramic ball from rc market......They feel better than the metal balls but are the cheap ones ok or not.

strong

I just receive some spare parts which include center pulley gears in 16T,17T,18T,tooth gears.....The TA05 comes with 16T gear......My question is can you use the 17T and 18T gears with the stock ball diffs pulleys and if so what advantage or disadvantage will they have..........Also what lube should I use on the balls ends that are used on the aluminium rear suspension mounts......My track has a dust problem

dragnse7en

The 17T and 18T center pulleys will change your final drive gear ratio. The IFS and IFS-R use 18T pulleys IIRC, but I looked at the instructions and the Diff pulley belt tensioners are positioned the same as a TA05 or R.

TA05 and TA05R have a final drive ratio of 2.25:1, using the 16T center pulleys.

Using the 17T would make a final drive ratio of 2.12:1.

Using the 18T would make it 2:1, the same final drive ratio as my TC5.


I never use lubricant on the suspension parts, and my instructions never called for it. If you have purchased 3Racing aluminum suspension mounts, you may be out of luck; they're parts do not have a high tolerance, and in my experience, half of their parts didn't fit quite right. You get what you pay for . . . .

Another thing I would check would be suspension shafts themselves. Take them out, and roll them on a flat surface. If they wobble, then they're bent. Replace them and make sure they are 49.7mm, and not from another Tamiya EVO suspension system.

Hope this helps

dragnse7en

The formula for any gearbox car is this:

Diff gear/ Counter gear.

In this case, I have a 36T wide pitch pulley for the diff, and a 16T counter gear pulley mounted on the layshaft.

36/16 = 2.25

Now I think I misspoke. To get your final drive ratio, First find out what the "gearbox" ratio is for your particular car. I will use my 2.25:1 for now, as an example.

Second, divide your spur gear number into your pinion gear number. In my case, again as an example, I have a 64P 100T spur and a 40T pinion.

100/40 = 2.5

Lastly, multiply your spur/pinion gear ratio by your gearbox ratio and you will get your total final drive ratio.

2.25 X 2.5 = 5.625 (in my case)

I am sorry to create confusion - there's a gearbox ratio that needs to be multiplied by your spur/pinion to get the final drive ratio.

dragnse7en

Hey strong - I would do some serious spy research on that exact Serpent model the guy has - everything from pulley gear "final drive" ratio, caster, toe-in, droop, and see if it makes any sense as to why he's beating you.

I wouldn't necessarily try to tune my own car to match his, as I tried that and failed as one driver's setup isn't everyone else. Also radios, ESCs etc are run in different cars and set up by the owner to their own taste. Example; you and I are team drivers with the same car, same motor, spur, pinion, ESC, etc but I will program my radio and ESC different, and the result will be that they act different, although they both have the same "factory team" setup.

Spying however at least gave me a benchmark against my own car, as I know more about what it can and cannot do. I learned the hard way and just kept up my efforts as to what worked for me best.

Also, if your Serpent friend is friendly, ask him about his electrics setup. His settings may or may not work better for you, depending on your racing experience and if you can even match said settings on your own ride.

Just my two cents But something to think about I suppose

home13oy75

iTrader: (11)

I was wondering what suspension blocks is everyone running up front in their cars. I'm currently running front 1c rear 1b. Since I changed over to the short reversible arms, I was thinking about trying 1c/1c. This is in a 17.5 class on low-medium grip asphalt.

kowkl

Guys,

I've just bought a Tekin redline brushless motor. After installing it in and with the sensor cable connected I can't fit the aluminum side brace on. What will the effect be if I run without this brace ? I'm using the upgraded carbon chasis (original tamiya).

I've been running the car with the upgraded servo saver. After changing a new servo I've noticed that there is a lot of free play. Is this normal or there is a problem with the servo saver ? I've looked into the assembly but all seems ok.

Any feedback appreciated.

Tks.

dragnse7en

I am currently running a Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro ESC. I had to mill out the rear of the chassis a bit.

Use the brace and see UP on the last page or so. that small place I milled out with a dremel tool did'nt affect chassis flex but NOT using the side brace would make the chassis a ripe jello product.

Go back a few pages and see what I did - it works fine for me when I didn't think my ESC would fit at first.

The footprint on my ESC is 45.5mm X 36.4mm if that helps for a bench start . . . .

Hope that helps out