68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
06-29-2007, 12:17 AM
#7921
I just noticed a major problem with my rear suspension. The A-arms are coming in contact with the inside of the rim presumably during heavy cornering. This may be why I would get the tail coming out really quickly sometimes. I haven't been able to dial it out and if the rim is "locking up" on the arm, then it would explain the erratic performance.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The other pic is my newly finished Kawada conversion. So far every setting change is much more pronounced with this chassis. Next week it will get raced for the first time.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The other pic is my newly finished Kawada conversion. So far every setting change is much more pronounced with this chassis. Next week it will get raced for the first time.
(i had rubbing on the front until i added a .5mm spacer.)
06-29-2007, 01:13 AM
#7923
I just noticed a major problem with my rear suspension. The A-arms are coming in contact with the inside of the rim presumably during heavy cornering. This may be why I would get the tail coming out really quickly sometimes. I haven't been able to dial it out and if the rim is "locking up" on the arm, then it would explain the erratic performance.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
06-29-2007, 04:20 AM
#7924
Tech Initiate
You can try to get the 3racing TA05 conversion kit at http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=7459
This is the cheapest I found and I bought 1 myself 2-3 months ago.
This is the cheapest I found and I bought 1 myself 2-3 months ago.
Double Quattro, where did you get your kawada conversion?
06-29-2007, 06:11 AM
#7925
$165 shipped and it got here FAST!!!!
http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/rc-rainbow/index.html
http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/rc-rainbow/index.html
06-29-2007, 06:18 AM
#7926
BTW: the multiquote button works great! Anyone know if you can quote from different pages?
06-29-2007, 02:14 PM
#7929
Tech Initiate
speedtech had one last penguin chassis for $95 and bought it just in time! w00t! I sorta needed the weight transfer more in the front for drifting.
06-29-2007, 10:14 PM
#7930
Does anybody happen to have an asphault setup that would provide me with a good basis? Setup sheet would be preferred, i need to know especially what suspension blocks would be ideal.
I also have 42mm universals from my 415 in the 05, and they look like they are a bit on the short size, should I get the 46mm's (i'm using std. suspension)
Also, i have a 102t spur in my 05, and i'm planning on running a monster stock, what pinion size would i be looking to get, or would I need to get a smaller spur and pair it up? Thanks!
I also have 42mm universals from my 415 in the 05, and they look like they are a bit on the short size, should I get the 46mm's (i'm using std. suspension)
Also, i have a 102t spur in my 05, and i'm planning on running a monster stock, what pinion size would i be looking to get, or would I need to get a smaller spur and pair it up? Thanks!
06-30-2007, 07:17 AM
#7931
Hey every one, im a newbew to this forum. Could any one tell me what toe is better on the front, negative or possitive. Plus what pitch (64 or 48) is better and what spur size you are using.
06-30-2007, 10:18 AM
#7932
what advantages and disadvantages would there be to swapping my 3 racing chassis back to the tub chassis
thanks
birdy
thanks
birdy
06-30-2007, 10:27 AM
#7933
64 pitch is more efficient, a bit less noisy, and gives you more options when it comes to gearing, but is more prone to debris getting in the way of the meshing since it uses smaller teeth. I myself have no problems runnning 64p outdoors, but some will prefer the 48p.
06-30-2007, 11:40 AM
#7934
Which pitch will match up with the stock 104tooth spur that comes with the TA05R?
