DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

I felt it made the car to 'springy' causing it to bottom out, the one hole piston suited the TA05 far better.

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

car is finally finished,

front and rear carbon towers
TRF shocks
front one way
alloy steering
rear precision diff hub

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

I just bought a 104 spur and I'm gonna try it instead of the 100t and then go from there , well prolly start on a 27 pinion, BTW I tried the 70 spur/ that came with the kit and installed a 23t pinion , burned my motor so don't try this at home

IN10CT

iTrader: (2)

i like the smell of burnt motors, it tastes soOOO YUMMY! when newly cooked

e_lm_70

Which motor have you born out ? A 8T motor !

Stock gearing is a soft 6.85 ... should be even ok for 12T motor !

e_lm_70

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

stock motor 27 turn tuned by XS power / it was smoking when I pulled my car in, sorry man don't run mods. tooo fast for me I'm just a newbie

F1mechanic

I drive it with a 25T pinion and 70T spur with a 23 turns motor. It runs very nice on the local indoor track. Almost fast enough to keep up on the straights with the 17 turns guys. But in cornering it's a different game .

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey all,

I have been floating in and out of here lately, but its such a hge thread I am losing track of what you guys are doing.. I know you guys are experimenting with all kinds of different suspension blocks and etc to maximize the handling.
I will start with a bone stock 05 and first add TRF Fluorinne shocks and hard arms cause I have them.

For carpet/rubber tire-whats the first changes? I want to keep it on old style suspension. So please if youd advise me on what blocks to run (X, A,B,C, etc.) and if running said blocks require a modification or chnage in universals, etc. please advise there.

Thanks,-just starting small at first-wanna nail the suspension geometry down first-then move to the drivetrain and then to lighten it up.

Thanks and I underdstand if if no ones wants to regurgitate old info for me.

btw-if anyone has a somewhat hopped up 05 for sale-by all means shoot me an offer at [email protected] That will save me a lot of aggravation and time.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

I have started with 1' camber all round, stock suspension blocks/arms/hubs, 0' toe-in on the front, stock suspension pickups. TRF shocks with 1 hole pistons and Integy 40wt oil, yellow springs.

Ride height was set to 5mm front and 5.5mm rear, 1mm extra droop on the front and 1.5mm extra on the rear.

Belt tensions set as per the manual, although for stock I reckon the front could run a little looser but I did have the back belt flip on me once.....

Shell, I tried a Stratus 2 and a Mazda 6, Mazda felt better on the fast stuff.

Mods to go on, if you are NOT doing a Tamiya series, in conjunction with Fusion Hobbies in the UK, we are trialing out some gearbox bracing, as thats the only initial thing I can fault on the car, to much flex between the chassis and the gearbox, will try to post a pic later (after I stop scratching the Carbon Shards out of my arms..... )

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Seems the general consensus is to use the 1XC blocks on the front, and 1XC/1XB blocks on the rear, or any other combination of X-blocks, depending on if you want 2.5 or 2 degrees rear toe-in.. The older blocks like C's and D's can be too big to fit without shaving plastic, as one guy noticed in a previous post..

You won't need new driveshafts for this on TA04 arms, and perhaps with the front one-way, you may need to take out those drive cup spacers they tell you to put in because of the narrower setup.

Tried out a 10x2 motor I won at a TCS, the Peak Raven, some budget V2 endbell motor.. Tried 104 Spur, 28 Pinion, and it started smoking after less than 2 mins.. didn't do much more than drive it up and down the road, make a few turns, then it slowed down like crazy, like my battery dumped, but I swapped batts and it still was erratic in speed, and slow to boot. It was hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch after 5 secs..

Should an 8.3 ratio burn the thing like that, after less than 2 mins?? My QC2 was getting rather hot too, but didn't cut off or anything...had the heatsink on it too.. ohwell, what's salvageable? The can and shims, maybe?

WarpdSpazm

Well I'm gearing a 29 or 30 to a 104 for my stock motor... I think 28 on a 10T is a bit high... 25T maybe? 24 even? I'm not big into MOD but I know it's got to be less than stock and 19T for sure... Hopefully a MOD regular will chime in to confirm. But ya... sounds just a tad over geared to me.

TheCoolCanFanMan

Hi
To all that have that have kindly purchased Cool-Can-Fan's for their cars. We now have a NEW L K website
Cheers Malc (The-Cool-Can-Fan-Man)
www.coolcanfan.com

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I really wish people would talk in terms of rollout, a finite number really makes it less confusing.

WarpdSpazm

True, but correct me if I'm wrong...The missing number is tire diameter. And for the most part that only changes when using foam... Rubber tires are pretty consistent, right? So to add a constant number into the mix, you'd still end up with the same value pretty much... It's like saying 8-halves as opposed to 4. If we were indoor or running foam, then yes Rollout is the only way to talk.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Have you ever measured Takeoffs compared to Sorex tires? generally 1-2mm difference in diameter.That works out to be around 1.4mm difference in rollout, or marginally more than 1 tooth on the pinion.