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Old 01-03-2017, 06:58 PM   #11386
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Hey thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like some worth while mods to make this chassis keep up with the newer cars.

I don't have any intention of entering into any TCS races, so chassis mods are on the table.

As for now, I can fit a hardcase lipo into the battery tray without modification. It is however sitting a couple millimeters higher than it should. And I can't use the battery strap. I can get in there with a dremel but it's gonna be messy. That will happen later if I find the center of gravity too high.

Also whos bright idea was it to have users hack off a tab on their (possibly expensive) servo to get it to fit? I instead took the dremel to the chassis to get a servo to fit. This however may have compromised some of the built in center channel stiffnesses. I already have an idea to create a small T-shaped top plate stiffener out of sheet metal or scrap plastic to reduce flex in the area I cut out.

I have yet to receive my servo blocks, so we'll see how this chassis performs out of the box before dropping too much money into this car.

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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I think your most immediate problem is to get the battery bed in the chassis milled out so you can use some decent square Lipos, otherwise you're limited in choice. I guess it won't make much difference for a silvercan, but I wouldn't like to waste my money buying specific battery packs for just one car.

I would also look immediately into getting some gear diffs going and a front one-way (this one is going to be difficult to find). The rear gear diff is easy, just use the Tamiya casings (can't remember what model fits). If you have to resort to a diff pulley with a different tooth count (like the TRF419 or the TA06) you'll have to get some different length belts. Which is not a problem, Xray have all the belts you may need in one tooth increments. You might also like to change the internal ratio and go to 18 tooth centre pulleys to keep pinion size down.

I have a fully upgraded TA05R and I found that some of the alloy/carbon parts are actually heavier, so when I was running the car in stock I went back and replaced all the heavy parts with kit parts to minimise weight, as the car is by default on the piggy side.

I did keep the alloy bulkheads and suspension blocks, and a few other bits and pieces just because plastics are annoying in some places where you work frequently and also want some precision and repeatability for your setup.

Otherwise, a much more durable car than the TRF equivalents and rather competitive for what it is.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:24 AM   #11387
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Yeah, I thought the servo lug cutting idea was pretty daft as well and did exactly the same thing. Chassis stiffness is not adversely affected as far as I can tell (the whole thing is stiff as a brick anyway).

I checked again and Tamiya has a TA05 gear diff so get that one and just drop it in, no mods necessary.

Internal ratio may be a problem depending on what class you run, you can change that with Xray belts and 18 tooth centre pulley like I said. You need to take some material out of the motor mount for clearance, but it's minimal.

The Lipo problem is exactly as you noticed, I didn't like it one bit to have the battery so high so I went at it with a Dremel with a milling cutter, got a pretty clean result.

Like I said, the main problem of the chassis is weight but there is so much meat in the tub you can easily hack away quite a fair bit with no fear.

And resist temptation to use Aluminium parts when the carbon ones are lighter. In critical places I did use alloy, but the steering linkage for instance I found was very precise as is, so returned to the box stock (keep the bearings and alloy posts).

The car doesn't suffer for all its slop either so after a long effort of eliminating all slop, I let it be when it worn well in and developed slop again. Tracks just as straight and it is very precise to control. When setting up, just pull things in their right place and take measurements there. Things don't change much due to slop. Keep in mind camber/caster/toe shifts under load and when it starts showing signs of too much slop (say pulls one side under acceleration and the other under brakes), replacing parts with new will cure the problem.
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:28 AM   #11388
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You can use all the pully's and belts from the TA05V2, so 18teeth center pully's and 37 teeth
pully's.
Gear diff and spool from TRF 416 will also fit.
You will have a ratio of 2.055
I run a TA05V1 with pully's and belts from V2

Last edited by JoJo1241; 01-04-2017 at 04:32 AM. Reason: text
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Old 01-05-2017, 04:28 PM   #11389
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Default TA05 truckin'

So I just got a couple of parts in to get my car rolling. It was okay with the street slicks. But then I had an idea. I know, this may be sacrilege, but I pulled the bumper off my TA05 and tried some big fat 90mm OD crawler tires on for size.

This chassis is really fun. Power sliding around corners. With the stock hard springs it corners surprisingly well with these giant wheels and completely unchecked camber and toe. I ran it on road, no fear, open chassis. It's like a short suspension buggy.

The tires scrub a little on max turn. But wow, how refreshing it is to have a chassis that can go fast and roll over most road things, like curbs and rocks. The best part is, it will eventually have a scale looking body, none of this spaceship buggy business. Any suggestions? I have a Toyota Land Cruiser body I might try on for size.

This is how it will be for now because it's too fun.



Last edited by 4roller; 01-05-2017 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:46 PM   #11390
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I have to say working on the TA05 is much simpler than working on my Tamoya Xv01. The drivetrain is pretty much 1 step away from direct drive. A couple of screws removed will get you access to pretty much any part of this car.

The car handles quite well with no tuning whatsoever. I very much enjoy the fact that this chassis is so simple and pivots from it center.

I put TC wheels back onto the car, and yeah it drives like you would expect it to. Oversteer and understeer are less evident than in a front or rear mount motor chassis.

I can see why this chassis has been a favorite for so long. I was really dreading the open belts on the street, but it ain't bad.

The chassis sir soooooooooo low, I guess that's why it pivots so easily.

Out of the box it's great. I'll continue to play with this cars suspension to get it even better.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:55 AM   #11391
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Default Ta05 v1 -> v2

Hi,

Is the chassis a straight swap between v1 and v2? As in, can I use all the same parts from v1 on the v2 chassis?

I am NOT looking to switch to IFS, but instead just use the separate suspension mounts.

If it's not, then can you outline the parts differces?

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:33 PM   #11392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4roller View Post
Hi,

Is the chassis a straight swap between v1 and v2? As in, can I use all the same parts from v1 on the v2 chassis?

I am NOT looking to switch to IFS, but instead just use the separate suspension mounts.

If it's not, then can you outline the parts differces?

Thanks!
It is not a straight swap from v1 to v2. The 2 biggest differences are the suspension mounts and the center pulley/spur mount. The V2 uses the split suspension inboard.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:34 PM   #11393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1larry View Post
It is not a straight swap from v1 to v2. The 2 biggest differences are the suspension mounts and the center pulley/spur mount. The V2 uses the split suspension inboard.
Yes I was thinking of using some split suspension mounts. But thank you for letting me know the center mount is different.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:17 PM   #11394
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If anyone is interested, I have a new V2 carbon reinforced chassis.
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:35 AM   #11395
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If anyone is interested, I have a new V2 carbon reinforced chassis.
please check pm
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:51 AM   #11396
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please check pm
Sell me your chassis if you switch out?
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Old 03-16-2017, 06:06 AM   #11397
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Anyone have or know a good black carpet setup for a TA05 V2?
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:51 PM   #11398
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Default Brushed motor



Here is my Ta05 with a brushed motor I dug up from way back when. I don't know how many turns it is. Maybe a 11x2. I think that was the fastest motor I had. I don't know about you but the torque on brushed motors are insane. From start it produces more than my 17.5t. Only when the 17.5 gets to mid range does it pull as hard.

This car is pretty fun even with a slow servo like a futaba s3003. Top speed is weak sauce as the max rpms on this old unkept motor are 30k at best but with all the low end torque and slick Ride tires it's basically a wheel spinning drift machine. Luckily the ta05 is so well balanced that it doesn't feel impossible to drive.

Pretty fun. Might be worth it to put the big tires back on now that I have so much torque.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:20 PM   #11399
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Default Stadium Blitzer Ta05

This probably the most fun i have had in a while.



TA05 v1 with a Stadium Blitzer body and oversized 90mm tires.

I dropped a 17.5t in it with 72/25 gearing. Uh it's pretty crazy. So much torque that I am skipping my belts on occasion.

The thing flies. And around corners it can get pretty unweildy at high speeds. Traction rolls are one possibility. Sometimes the rear end slides out a little. Most of the time you can stick a turn and come out blazing.

I know is it's not the TC you signed up for. But man it's refreshingly fun.

Would metal pulley wheels and reinforced belts help with belt slippage? I was also thinking abut gear diffs too.

It's like rally truck. I wish there was a class for something like this.
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:21 PM   #11400
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Default TA05 ver.II chassis

Anyone has a spare TA05 Ver.II chassis for sale? Not the carbon reinforced one. just the regular one that comes with the kit... please PM me. thanks.
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