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Old 03-04-2015, 09:13 AM   #11296
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Sorry...
What's a spool do and what's the pro/con?
It's basically a locked differential, but mechanically simpler and zero adjustment.

Pro: greater stability under braking
Con: Less turn-in

If you have a low traction surface, then a diff can make the car a bit unstable under braking. This is less of a problem on a high-grip surface and the diff can then help with less understeer. Of course, it's all relative and will depend on how you like to drive.

Some people use a tight diff to end up somewhere in between. Gear diffs can be tuned with different weight oils and although I don't have one anymore, I'm pretty sure that they were available to fit the TA05 bulkheads. You can tighten ball diffs as well, but the extra strain to make it noticeable can cause breakages.
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:52 AM   #11297
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is this the same as a "one way" ?
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:25 AM   #11298
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is this a fine replacement for the stock front diff?
honestly, I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part.

http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagle...l.aspx?id=3807
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:26 PM   #11299
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Anyone know?
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:42 PM   #11300
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is this a fine replacement for the stock front diff?
honestly, I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part.

http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagle...l.aspx?id=3807
Looks good...never heard of that website nor the brand of the part though. You can't go wrong with genuine Tamiya parts and hop up options.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:08 AM   #11301
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is this the same as a "one way" ?
No. A spool provides drive equally to left and right all the time with no diff action - under both accel and decel.

A front one way will act like a spool under accel but "free" wheel under breaking. In effect you are decoupling the drivetrain. So you won't get front end braking.

Running a centre one way allows the use of a diff in the front still. But again, no front brakes.
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:26 PM   #11302
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Originally Posted by macscac View Post
is this a fine replacement for the stock front diff?
honestly, I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part.

http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagle...l.aspx?id=3807
Are you're looking for a complete ball diff? If so, you have to buy all the parts. I haven't looked lately but I've never had problems finding Tamiya parts someplace.

Just grab the manual and get all the parts off the diff assembly page.
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:14 AM   #11303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR View Post
It's basically a locked differential, but mechanically simpler and zero adjustment.

Pro: greater stability under braking
Con: Less turn-in

If you have a low traction surface, then a diff can make the car a bit unstable under braking. This is less of a problem on a high-grip surface and the diff can then help with less understeer. Of course, it's all relative and will depend on how you like to drive.

Some people use a tight diff to end up somewhere in between. Gear diffs can be tuned with different weight oils and although I don't have one anymore, I'm pretty sure that they were available to fit the TA05 bulkheads. You can tighten ball diffs as well, but the extra strain to make it noticeable can cause breakages.
So what viscosity oil for gear diffs would be ideal for the "in between" setup sir? I was thinking 1M from gravity rc. 2.5M I think is too thick. Am I right there? I'm just guesstimating, not actual field testing. My TA05 V2 has 500k in the front but I think it's still a bit loose.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:31 AM   #11304
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Originally Posted by SagadSetup View Post
So what viscosity oil for gear diffs would be ideal for the "in between" setup sir? I was thinking 1M from gravity rc. 2.5M I think is too thick. Am I right there? I'm just guesstimating, not actual field testing. My TA05 V2 has 500k in the front but I think it's still a bit loose.
It's going to depend on the track and how you drive, but 2M won't be bad, and some people go harder again by using putty. I haven't done that myself, so I can't immediately say which putty products would be best.

Lately I pretty much just run a spool up front in my 13.5 TC since none of the tracks I regularly race on are high traction.

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Old 03-20-2015, 06:40 AM   #11305
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It's going to depend on the track and how you drive, but 2M won't be bad, and some people go harder again by using putty. I haven't done that myself, so I can't immediately say which putty products would be best.

Lately I pretty much just run a spool up front in my 13.5 TC since none of the tracks I regularly race on are high traction.

Phil.
So 2.5mil from gravity rc is ok would you say sir? For loose unprepped asphalt tracks?

Another question. Is it worthwhile to upgrade to steel internal gears? Or are the plastic gears are okay?
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:11 AM   #11306
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I just picked up a used TA05 v2r as a step up from my TT02 so I'm still kinda new. My question is about gearing. I wanted to put a Tamiya silver can motor in there to start.

Are spur and pinion gears chassis specific? Can I use the 64, 68 and 81T spur gears and 22, 28 and 29T pinion gears I have from my TT02? Will they work in the Ta05 or do I need to buy a separate set of gears?

Basically the only gears I have are for a TT02 except for the 90T spur gear that came with the TA05. When I try to fit the 28T pinion onto the silver can motor and try to align it with the 90T spur it doesn't really look like it's supposed to go together so I figure I'm doing something wrong. Please advise.

[...]
That's because they are not the same pitch. If I remember correctly, the TT has AV pitch and the TA05 has metric pitch.

Just get rid of both and use 48 or 64 pitch like the rest of the planet.

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Has anyone tried different diff pulleys on their TA05? maybe the ta04 or 415 pullies....
What type of modifications would I need to make? I have the 3racing optional center pulley set that has 16,17 and 18 teeth. I'm trying to get it around 2.0 for easier gearing options
Depends how much you want to modify your car. I have an "R" version and have used pretty much all the diffs you can think of in it. The Mi5 gear diffs are perhaps the best and they give you the ratio you're looking for (36 teeth), but you need to change the driveshafts (I think, can't remember). Don't remember if I changed the belts either (might be able to adjust).
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Old 03-21-2015, 04:42 AM   #11307
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So 2.5mil from gravity rc is ok would you say sir? For loose unprepped asphalt tracks?

Another question. Is it worthwhile to upgrade to steel internal gears? Or are the plastic gears are okay?
For the diff, the only way to know if it suits you is to try it out. Experimentation is very instructive

When built properly, the plastic gears should hold up fine. One common cause of failure is using weak shims that bend under the stress, allowing too much movement internally. All the gear diffs I've had since the 416 have used .3mm shims which hold up well.
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Old 03-21-2015, 07:05 AM   #11308
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For the diff, the only way to know if it suits you is to try it out. Experimentation is very instructive

When built properly, the plastic gears should hold up fine. One common cause of failure is using weak shims that bend under the stress, allowing too much movement internally. All the gear diffs I've had since the 416 have used .3mm shims which hold up well.
I'll do the "shot gun" approach sir. Build a 1M and a 2.5M diff and see which is the best for me.

Thanks.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:59 PM   #11309
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Is there a better option for this car than dogbones in the front?
No matter how I shin indeed the cups, I still get dogbone 'clatter' and on extreme turning sometimes the dogbone will pop out... Jamming up the wheel
I'd like a one piece to the wheel option if possible?
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:28 PM   #11310
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Is there a better option for this car than dogbones in the front?
No matter how I shin indeed the cups, I still get dogbone 'clatter' and on extreme turning sometimes the dogbone will pop out... Jamming up the wheel
I'd like a one piece to the wheel option if possible?
You mean something like this? http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53847
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