68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
03-06-2012, 08:56 AM
Thanks guys,
wont get to run it till sun so I am just going to drive it the way it is now and see how I do with it. Will search and see if I can find some good setup sheets.
I think I will try the spool. I just want a driver frendly car that I can keep consstant with. My reflexes are getting slower so the slower smoother route is the better place for me to start
thats why I started with a M05
I am sure I will have a bunch of questions next week. For now not so many. I dont really have any money in this car yet, and would like to keep my cost down. Besides a spool and shocks what would make a noticible handling difference? a Graphite chassis? or will the tub work just fine?
What seems to break? or what parts should I have handy?
wont get to run it till sun so I am just going to drive it the way it is now and see how I do with it. Will search and see if I can find some good setup sheets.
I think I will try the spool. I just want a driver frendly car that I can keep consstant with. My reflexes are getting slower so the slower smoother route is the better place for me to start
thats why I started with a M05I am sure I will have a bunch of questions next week. For now not so many. I dont really have any money in this car yet, and would like to keep my cost down. Besides a spool and shocks what would make a noticible handling difference? a Graphite chassis? or will the tub work just fine?
What seems to break? or what parts should I have handy?
03-06-2012, 12:07 PM
Personally I would hold off on the spool if you are just getting started with this car. The reason is if the track barrier has any height and you clip it with a front wheel, the spool can launch you over the barrier. Even with a really tight diff, the front has the option to break free if you clip the board. Now if you very rarely clip a barrier go for the spool, much better out of the corners
03-11-2012, 07:01 PM
Got to race today
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
03-12-2012, 06:16 AM
ta05
Got to race today
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
03-12-2012, 06:55 AM
Got to race today
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
cliped something in the warmup laps and dislocated my rear a arm. Didnt get in any practice prior cause I forgot about the time change(good thing I went early). got it fixed didnt break anything just had to put it back together. Started the race 2 mins late and still didnt finish last. Car was loose and undergeard for the Novak 17.5. FDR was 5.4
Second heat was better got the right gears (or better) FDR was 3.8 so I had more top end and less bottom. What I did notice was the rear was way loose. I was drifting through most of the corners now. especialy comming off the straight. I dont know if it was me...the lack of a rear wing...tires...rear diff to tight or what. But any acceleration throgh the corners was causing a drift. I was the only tc having this problem.
Handed my car over to one of the Tamiya guys at the track and he went over the car and adusted some camber and toe issues before the main. I was still loose, felt like I was on ice with the rear still. had a good battle for 3rd in the a main but just couldnt hold on to it in the end and got 4th
I am realy thinking that the rear diff is to tight...and a wing would help and slap on a set of tires on. any other pointers?
If the rear diff is too tight you will drag it around the corner. The front should be tighter than the rear. Hold the spur gear with your thumb and one wheel against your stomach, now try to turn the free wheel. Repeat for the other end of the car. What is your rear shock position, both upper & lower? I would try standing the rear shocks up, the rear if too soft can cause it to slide. What track surface & what are you treating your tires with?
03-12-2012, 07:14 AM
I am running on asphalt. I use buggy grip and tire tweak. The main I just ran buggy grip. I think it did feel a bit looser without the tweak. I think my rear shocks are standing up. Gold springs and not to sure of the oil. Will check the feel of the diffs tonight
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
03-18-2012, 10:20 PM
Well my rear diff was to tight, had to loosen it quite a bit. Had rain all weekend so no track time. got to run it in the street and after a few triesI could realy see a big difference in the rear end tracking...thanks guys
Now I am looking into a front spool. looks like they have 2. one with a pully and one without.
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=5381
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=1331
will the one without the pully use the ball diff pully I have? I would much rather spend $15 than $30
Now I am looking into a front spool. looks like they have 2. one with a pully and one without.
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=5381
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=1331
will the one without the pully use the ball diff pully I have? I would much rather spend $15 than $30
03-19-2012, 08:18 AM
tao5
you would have do use a different pulley on the first one the second one is the way to go.that is the one that i use.
04-06-2012, 09:21 AM
I don't know if this is anything that anyone else has come across and searching for it through this thread is a bit hard but I cannot get my front belt on my TA05-IFS R tight enough to not skip under hard braking. I have the bulkhead rotated all the way to max tension and the belts are not stretched as I just measured them up to my backup set and they match almost perfectly. It actually got so bad that skipping wore away the center pulley significantly after a days worth of racing (i.e. skipping).
I notice that when I have the chassis completely stripped down with nothing on it, I can push down on either end and the far end will rise by 1 - 2mm at most. Then when I have all of the bulkheads, motor mount, etc bolted up I can push down on the back end and the front will raise by almost 10mm! The motor mount seems to be the part that causes the most problems, imparting not only a longitudinal curve, but also slightly curving laterally up as well. I know you can't get a molded tub chassis completely flat just by how it's made, so that doesn't bother me. My problem is that the chassis is twisting so much that the belts no longer function as they should.
Has anyone else come across this and found a fix or should I just get a new chassis? This seems to be a problem since day 1.
I notice that when I have the chassis completely stripped down with nothing on it, I can push down on either end and the far end will rise by 1 - 2mm at most. Then when I have all of the bulkheads, motor mount, etc bolted up I can push down on the back end and the front will raise by almost 10mm! The motor mount seems to be the part that causes the most problems, imparting not only a longitudinal curve, but also slightly curving laterally up as well. I know you can't get a molded tub chassis completely flat just by how it's made, so that doesn't bother me. My problem is that the chassis is twisting so much that the belts no longer function as they should.
Has anyone else come across this and found a fix or should I just get a new chassis? This seems to be a problem since day 1.
04-06-2012, 06:47 PM
ta05
I don't know if this is anything that anyone else has come across and searching for it through this thread is a bit hard but I cannot get my front belt on my TA05-IFS R tight enough to not skip under hard braking. I have the bulkhead rotated all the way to max tension and the belts are not stretched as I just measured them up to my backup set and they match almost perfectly. It actually got so bad that skipping wore away the center pulley significantly after a days worth of racing (i.e. skipping).
I notice that when I have the chassis completely stripped down with nothing on it, I can push down on either end and the far end will rise by 1 - 2mm at most. Then when I have all of the bulkheads, motor mount, etc bolted up I can push down on the back end and the front will raise by almost 10mm! The motor mount seems to be the part that causes the most problems, imparting not only a longitudinal curve, but also slightly curving laterally up as well. I know you can't get a molded tub chassis completely flat just by how it's made, so that doesn't bother me. My problem is that the chassis is twisting so much that the belts no longer function as they should.
Has anyone else come across this and found a fix or should I just get a new chassis? This seems to be a problem since day 1.
I notice that when I have the chassis completely stripped down with nothing on it, I can push down on either end and the far end will rise by 1 - 2mm at most. Then when I have all of the bulkheads, motor mount, etc bolted up I can push down on the back end and the front will raise by almost 10mm! The motor mount seems to be the part that causes the most problems, imparting not only a longitudinal curve, but also slightly curving laterally up as well. I know you can't get a molded tub chassis completely flat just by how it's made, so that doesn't bother me. My problem is that the chassis is twisting so much that the belts no longer function as they should.
Has anyone else come across this and found a fix or should I just get a new chassis? This seems to be a problem since day 1.
04-06-2012, 08:59 PM
| + YouTube Video | |
Thought you guys might find this interesting.
This was last weekend at our Grand Club Race II at the Tamiya track. Duy (pronounced Du-ey) was the TQ in 13.5 expert class and is the all pink car---a minimally hopped up TA05v1 against double deck cars such as Xrays, AE TC6s, TRF417s etc.. He was hit at the start but kept up very well until the motor fried. All in all, very impressive performance for the TA05v1!
04-08-2012, 06:45 AM
Thanks for posting that video... I'm still running the V1 as well. Managed to beat V2's and IFS's in GT3 last month @ TCS... Think it's time to drop a 17.5 and go big game hunting!
04-08-2012, 07:43 AM
Very nice video 
I have both a V1 & V2 TA05 and find that the V1 is a much more forgiving car then my V2.
Don't get me wrong, the V2 is a fast car but just feels always on the edge, push it a little too hard and it'll violently let go, I have converted it from a IFS setup to a stand up shock system at the front which helped it some what. I managed to do this using the Exotek chassis and learned to leave a couple of screws out here and there to allow some flex back into the chassis.
However the V1 is my favorite as it's much easier to drive and be consistent.
Some mods that I done to mine -
Front & rear alloy bulk heads, mainly done this so you don't need that extra plastic piece that holds the bearing holder to go into the plastic ones.
Carbon Graphite Shock towers front and rear.
Carbon Graphite chassis stiffeners front and rear.
Alloy steering assembly, removes some of the slop in the steering.
TRF fluorine coated shocks for a TA04, these work great and are a little bit cheaper then the blue ones.
Spool front diff, helps to keep the car stable going into and out of corners - but can be hard on uni joints.
Upgraded motor & center pulley mount, helps to dissipate heat better from motor.
Alloy rear hub carriers, to give some toe in on the rear wheels
Still using the stock plastic tub chassis as the car handles good with it.
And here's the kicker - The V1 is only 7 grams heavier then my twin deck Exotek chassis V2.
Cheers
Rob.
I have both a V1 & V2 TA05 and find that the V1 is a much more forgiving car then my V2.
Don't get me wrong, the V2 is a fast car but just feels always on the edge, push it a little too hard and it'll violently let go, I have converted it from a IFS setup to a stand up shock system at the front which helped it some what. I managed to do this using the Exotek chassis and learned to leave a couple of screws out here and there to allow some flex back into the chassis.
However the V1 is my favorite as it's much easier to drive and be consistent.
Some mods that I done to mine -
Front & rear alloy bulk heads, mainly done this so you don't need that extra plastic piece that holds the bearing holder to go into the plastic ones.
Carbon Graphite Shock towers front and rear.
Carbon Graphite chassis stiffeners front and rear.
Alloy steering assembly, removes some of the slop in the steering.
TRF fluorine coated shocks for a TA04, these work great and are a little bit cheaper then the blue ones.
Spool front diff, helps to keep the car stable going into and out of corners - but can be hard on uni joints.
Upgraded motor & center pulley mount, helps to dissipate heat better from motor.
Alloy rear hub carriers, to give some toe in on the rear wheels
Still using the stock plastic tub chassis as the car handles good with it.
And here's the kicker - The V1 is only 7 grams heavier then my twin deck Exotek chassis V2.
Cheers
Rob.
04-08-2012, 03:06 PM
I am pretty sure that it's the stock non-carbon tub that came with the IFS R. The motor mount is the stock grey alum one with the bead blasted surface. I know all the chassis come somewhat warped, but this seems a bit strange that when bolting everything up, the warp gets accentuated so horribly.
04-10-2012, 09:16 AM
I'm not sure how I did it... but I managed to get my TA05 V.1 Carbon Chassis tweak free. That is to say she's perfectly balanced on the scales at all four corners... It even held for two full race days of abuse! I'm going to try and figure this out and will let all know. I did have the normal 40gram light in the front right up until TCS in March...