dragnse7en

I would be more concerned as to which servo saver has the right hole position, as compared to the kit's servo saver.

If the ball stud is too high, this could put the steering throw past its mechanical limit, but if your radio has EPA then trim it back until the servo stops straining.

Too short and the turning radius will be larger so I wouldn't do that either.

Even if Kinbrough (Kimborough? sp) made this specifically for a TA05, I'd check the distance between the ball stud hole and the center of the horn mount hole just to make sure.

dragnse7en

Wait - I made a mistake - sorry

Using 1A for the bridge mount and D brings it up to a 1.5º toe, but if you have the kit's rear hub carriers it will be a total of 2.5º toe-in. Each rear hub carrier, marked L and R, have a total of 1º of additional toe-in.

1A+D=1.5, plus both hubs total 2.5º.

Use suspension mount X in this case.

1A+X=2º, plus both rear hub carriers equal 1º = 3º total toe-in.

Hope this helps

sneako

iTrader: (7)

SOLD

dragnse7en

Damn. PM sent too late whhhaahhha whhhaaa whhaaaaa (insert melancoly tune here)

dragnse7en

Hey bro -

what are you using for your drivetrain?

44, 46 or 48mm outdrive shafts?

I am thinking the TA05 uses 46mm ones, but I've seen 44mm also but they seem to look like they only fit on a double-tail dog bone system, with the red urethane soft bushings taking up the slack on both ends.

would the 46mm only fit the urethane bushings only on one side? Which end - the diff pulley end or the axle end?

I dunno - just curious Been lookin at the TA05 manual but it's confusing to me lol

encore75

iTrader: (26)

It's not exactly new. I've had this bumper for about 2 years now (ordered from tamiyausa.com as well).

encore75

iTrader: (26)

The Kimbrough without the holes is the one you want (Part #200). You'll see on it that there are guides for suggested places to drill a hole and the best spot is right above the center guide circle. The #201 with holes is a little low for the center hole.

Otherwise, this servo saver works perfect (I use a full-size Hitec 985 servo)...no need to cut the corner off or anything to keep it from hitting the chassis.

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Here's a chart to give you the info you need (you'll need an XB block):

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=412

Sorry, don't know what part number you'd need for a 3Racing part.

encore75

iTrader: (26)

I'm not strong, but maybe this helps...

Typically, you'll want to use the 48mm drive shafts (I'm assuming you're talking about the CVDs). That's what came stock on my TA05R CVDs (Tamiya Parts #53871 & #53836). If you go to narrower block settings, you may want to use the 46mm shafts to avoid clearance issues. I'm not sure if you'd be able to use 44mm shafts without them binding upon compression...perhaps with a really narrow block setting like XD/XD.

strong

I have been using the 3racing aluminum swing shafts for a good while now......with zero problems so far.......But I can't really say how long they are until I get home and take a look at the set of spares I have......Want to say 44mm but not 100% sure.........But if you can fine the 3racing ones they are that size.

strong

The 3racing swing shaft for Tamiya TA05 is 46mm long.....Item # TA05-26.

Lees52

iTrader: (1)

Hi all im a TA05 nutta, I luv em
Over the last years ive raced lots of different flavours of TA05's
The original with the TA04 syspension.
The original with the 3racing chassis conversion.
The original with the 3racing chassis conversion and 416 syspension.
The version 2
I never owned a MS but I helped a friends set one up.
And I spent days and days at the track trying all the different setups.
Sway bars, springs, oil, roll centers up and down, wide narrow front and rear body positions etc etc..
And ive been thinking back and my favorite was the original, you could really chuck that thing around, i think the original with the 3racing chassis was the fastest and most accurate the drive.
So im going to build another one up, i got the 3racing vers, they fixed the battery holder so the battery wont fall out like it did on the ver 1 and 2.
All I need now is a cheap original kit...anyone?
Anyone got any questions about setups???..I might have some ideas to try.

dragnse7en

encore75 - YOU ARE WRONG.

Same exact source I use.

BOTH KIT REAR HUB CARRIERS EQUAL 1°, 1/2 A DEGREE EACH.

Do not listen to this guy - in your case, use the X (not XB) mount.

encore75 needs to do further homework, he gets a FAT F- on that one

Listen to a guy that has 25 years of exp. - Thats me

My TC5 has 3° of rear toe. The human eye can detect a half degree difference.

Looking at both cars, the TC5 has more rear toe.

But then again, I use a gauge.

dragnse7en

Just make sure that the newest 3Racing parts fit correctly - in the past five years I've bought from them, for three different other Tamiya on road cars.

It's a hit or miss on part fit for that company, and I've read all these pages along with threads to my other cars that confirm my sorrows.

Most were quite unsatisfied for fit, function, and adaptability.

But, if you want to make your TA05 into a cross breed between A TRF415 series, a TA05-R, and a TC5 with an upper deck, and all the while preserving the high quality and performance, then I hope you're a serious hobby guy

3Racing on any TA05 series has been shady to put it lightly to say the least - read up on all the pages in this thread and trust me from 1st hand experience

dragnse7en

Good to know. My kit did come with the 48mm shafts, blue alum for the back and hardened steel for the front.

I just recently got a reg TA05 also but I found out the suspension options I could use for it and it blew my mind. I was thinking the suspension mounts also had a factor - i.e., how far you could go with a long set, mid set, and tight set and what swing shaft sizes to use.

I'm not gonna buy every set to test it out but I will listen to the limits from you guys - I kinda think it's common sense but 44mm freaks me out. Must've been used on a TRF415 or other TRF on-road model. - TA01?