Originally Posted by strong
Can some one PLEASE explain to me about droop......Because of all the setting on a touring car this is the most confusing to me.....If I turn the set screw in or down will this give me more or less droop....And also will it give me more or less traction at that end of the car with the most droop.
That's because it is
Short answer, yes. On the condition that you do not change anything else in your suspension.
Long answer below.
Turning the screw in will give you a higher downstop
. The suspension arms at rest (car off the ground) are then higer in relation to the chassis than at a lower
downstop value. Droop is affected too, but only by collateral, because the downstop screw limits how far down the arm can go. To counter this, you can adjust the ride height using the spring tensioners on the shocks so you gain back the droop lost by raising the downstop value.
Ideally this is the process.
Doesn't work if you don't have an appropiate assortment of springs of correct length/rate to be able to achieve any
desired combination of downstop-droop-ride height.
To give you a handle on this, here's a little experiment. Prepare your car to race with everything in (battery, etc, etc). Leave only the body off for now. Now take any tension on springs away (by adjusting the collars, or removing any clips if you have the plastic shocks). Make sure the springs are not under any compression at all whatsoever. Raise the chassis on something like a small block of wood or anything flat and square. Your suspension arms should be able now to flap up and down freely. Let them settle under their own weight. Now screw in the downstop screw and look how the arm is coming up. That means you have a higher downstop.
If you take now the car and put it on the wheels, the chassis will probably rest on the ground as there is nothing to support its weight. Lets say it does. To measure droop now, you should lift the chassis until the wheels come off the ground. This will happen when the downstop screw will touch the chassis.
Please note, this is not equivalent to saying droop is at this point equal to downstop. If they are equal, is just a coincidence.
Ride height at this stage is zero (chassis sits on the ground if you leave the car alone).
To adjust ride height, you need to use the springs, so now you need to start putting some tension on the springs. the more tension you put on the springs, the more the arms are pushed down as spring tension overcomes the car weight and the chassis is lifted higher and higher until the downstop screws just come in contact with the chassis again. At this point you have the highest ride height you can achieve for the given downstop value
. Also, at this point, you will have no droop at all (i.e. the arms are as far down as they can be).
If you are happy with the ride height now, you can back off the downstop screws and this will change your downstop (it will be lower) and this will also give you some droop (the downstop screws don't rest on the chassis any more, so the arm can travel downwards a bit if the car is lifted or it rolls).
If you need more ride height (say you need to meet some regulation ride height), you will have to back off the downstop screws and
increase the tension on the springs. Then, retrace the steps above to gain the desired droop.
Droop is very useful in tuning your car, and generally you should remember that a softer suspension setting needs more droop to make use of the available grip because the car rolls more and if there is no droop, is more likely to lift the inside wheels off the ground in a corner.