Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
I often see RC drivers lifting up one end of the chassis with a tool to check if both wheels lift off together... but mine doesnt. how do i rectify such a problem?
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
screw these further in to make the wheels lift off the ground sooner..
this is called having less droop
screw these out to make the wheels lift off the ground later..
this is called having more droop
the amount the chassis rises from rest before the wheels lift off can be measured and the figure referred to as droop (eg. 2mm droop on rear)
if they dont lift off evenly, adjust the downstops until the wheels come off at the same time.
there should be grub screws in the lower arms (often referred to as downstops) on either side of the diff bulkheads..
screw these further in to make the wheels lift off the ground sooner..
this is called having less droop
screw these out to make the wheels lift off the ground later..
this is called having more droop
the amount the chassis rises from rest before the wheels lift off can be measured and the figure referred to as droop (eg. 2mm droop on rear)
if they dont lift off evenly, adjust the downstops until the wheels come off at the same time.
screw these further in to make the wheels lift off the ground sooner..
this is called having less droop
screw these out to make the wheels lift off the ground later..
this is called having more droop
the amount the chassis rises from rest before the wheels lift off can be measured and the figure referred to as droop (eg. 2mm droop on rear)
if they dont lift off evenly, adjust the downstops until the wheels come off at the same time.
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
if the left and right wheels lift at different times, then your droop settings are not the same left and right..
so yes, it will mess up the current droop settings.. but it will fix the already mismatched droop settings you have
so yes, it will mess up the current droop settings.. but it will fix the already mismatched droop settings you have
My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Suspended
My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Time consuming, but easy and simple enough. After a while you will get the feel of the mechanics of your car and will know exactly what is wrong with it, even when youre driving it.
Not had to replace much, they were more of an upgrade than a repair.
universal driveshafts, 2 pairs. (although the dog bones wear, they will still be OK)
Shocks (the plastic ones leak after a while, so i got a set of trf shocks from the day i built it)
and all 4 toe blocks replaced with the alloy blue ones (the pivot pin pops out on a HARD impact).
But if the Aramid belts work for you, then that's cool
If you're unlucky on a hard impact, you can bend the pivot pins, so watch out for that.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
I take apart the universals and clean and re-grease after EVERY race day. The carpet we have is new, so there is a lot of fuzz that builds up in the universal joint area.
Also re-oil all wheel bearings after every race day.
Suspended
Well, I got my kit and an extra body all done. This is perhaps the best kit I've ever had from Tamiya - the tolerances are much tighter than the others I have/ had before. My kit's about as tight as a sport version of an AE RC10T.
So, here's my ride. I thought I'd share some pics with you all. Enjoy!
So, here's my ride. I thought I'd share some pics with you all. Enjoy!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Balancing weight ??
How do you determine how much extra weight to add to the battery side of the car to balance it when running LiPo ??
Obviously you want to add as little as possible, but how exactly do you determine how much to add ??
Thanks
Obviously you want to add as little as possible, but how exactly do you determine how much to add ??
Thanks
Suspended
Not all Lipo manufacturers are the same, and two different 2 cell batteries dont necessarily weigh the same. I don't know how many cells youre using; 2 or 3, so I can't say "add 3.8 grams."
This is what we do for the AE RC8 and other mid engine/ motor layouts that have the RH side a little lighter.
Don't try and use one scale and hang one side up; the weight of the whole model will transfer to the scale, and you'll end up with the false info of weighing the same on both sides.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
The only way to do this by yourself is to get two digital scales that can measure grams. place the scales next to each other, and place your model on top of both, keeping it in the middle. I'd weigh it three times and use an average. Whatever the final difference is on the battery side, then that's what you need to add.
Not all Lipo manufacturers are the same, and two different 2 cell batteries dont necessarily weigh the same. I don't know how many cells youre using; 2 or 3, so I can't say "add 3.8 grams."
This is what we do for the AE RC8 and other mid engine/ motor layouts that have the RH side a little lighter.
Don't try and use one scale and hang one side up; the weight of the whole model will transfer to the scale, and you'll end up with the false info of weighing the same on both sides.
Not all Lipo manufacturers are the same, and two different 2 cell batteries dont necessarily weigh the same. I don't know how many cells youre using; 2 or 3, so I can't say "add 3.8 grams."
This is what we do for the AE RC8 and other mid engine/ motor layouts that have the RH side a little lighter.
Don't try and use one scale and hang one side up; the weight of the whole model will transfer to the scale, and you'll end up with the false info of weighing the same on both sides.
I'm guessing you can't use wheel weights because they would be affected by spring preload of the shocks, etc ?
Thx
Suspended
When you say "place the scales next to each other" ... I'm assuming you mean to place the scales side-by-side and set the * chassis * on them centered between them (not the wheels) ??
I'm guessing you can't use wheel weights because they would be affected by spring preload of the shocks, etc ?
Thx
I'm guessing you can't use wheel weights because they would be affected by spring preload of the shocks, etc ?
Thx
If you want to be super precise, and you balance and weigh your wheels, make sure that's done first. Otherwise, pop off fours and and check the L/R offset weight without them
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
I posted this question to the IFS thread, but I figured I'd post here also since that thread is less active.
I just ordered a TA05 IFS-R for an upcoming TCS Race at our local track. This will be my first TCS event, and I'm looking forward to it. I'm leaning toward GT2, but GT3 is a possibility.
Are there any parts that I should have on hand for possible breakage?
I would hate to have my day end early because I broke a part and didn't have a replacement.
If you know the part number that would be very helpful since I'm not really familiar with these parts.
Thanks
I just ordered a TA05 IFS-R for an upcoming TCS Race at our local track. This will be my first TCS event, and I'm looking forward to it. I'm leaning toward GT2, but GT3 is a possibility.
Are there any parts that I should have on hand for possible breakage?
I would hate to have my day end early because I broke a part and didn't have a replacement.
If you know the part number that would be very helpful since I'm not really familiar with these parts.
Thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
forewarning.... the following pics are bad.
anyhow.... so here is my question.
using the 3racing conversion chassis. i ordered front and rear stiffeners on ebay but i dont think i need them.
is that correct?
ive included pics of where i think they'd go but i dont think they are necessary.
or am i missing something?
thanks
anyhow.... so here is my question.
using the 3racing conversion chassis. i ordered front and rear stiffeners on ebay but i dont think i need them.
is that correct?
ive included pics of where i think they'd go but i dont think they are necessary.
or am i missing something?
thanks