mok

iTrader: (9)

i personally wouldnt be using CA to lock the arms in place on the hinge pins..
well, not unless you knew for sure you never wanted to change wheelbase settings on the car!

IMHO it would be preferrable to run CA through the holes in an effort to make them a little smaller..
but if you did feel the need to use some form of adhesive, try semi-permanent threadlock first because it will be much easier to move/remove the hinge pins

it might pay to have a think about what would be easiest to deal with at a race meet when/if you have to change a lower arn etc

-Mark

mok

iTrader: (9)

+ 1 to that...

also, what does it do when you punch the throttle in a straight line from a standing start?
does the rear tend to step out sideways then too?
i ask because its also possible you have the rear diff set too tight..

seaball

iTrader: (9)

fyi - miscellaneous black 'ifs' diff parts for sale: (all new in package)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post5225709

and the black shock set:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...6-etc-nip.html

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

Yes but those shims only help front to rear slop -- not the slop where the hinge pin isn't snug in the holes of the suspension arms.

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

Thanks -- I'll try putting a drop of CA inside of the holes in the suspension arms to reduce the size of the holes a bit until it feels snug when I slide the pins in. I think that will do the trick.

redbones

yeah I meant to drop ca into the space between the pin and the hole. It will dry quickly, but the CA will not stay on the pins. Once dried, grab the middle part of the pin with pliers and move the arm to break the CA from pin. play with it for a while, and then you should have a tight seal but still moveable.

My rear diff is super smooth and it goes in a straight line on normal acceleration. gonna try the front droop and give it little more rear weight bias.

RielTime Racing

You can shim them with nylon or brass motor shims accordingly. I also found some nylon spacers at my local hardware store that work well too. No slop now and moves freely.

brownstone101

i think im going to try and remove some slop from my 05 too it works into haveing too much vibration passing though the chassie from the wheels so that might be a good idea.

quick question if it feels like my car pushes a little though the turns and the back and front of the car feel a little loose to the track increaseing the - camber a little bit will help in cornering right? its all set to -1 degrees camber and going a little more will help right?
thanks

tc3team

Any Tamiya car seem to inherit some slop quite quickly from new, I can't say its been critical enough to feel any difference though.

Also, sometimes a bit of excess movement inbetween parts can help absorb a bit of board tapping if you get a little too intimate with them.

HI_808

Sorry, I didn't read your original post well.

In that case, I can tell you that the short arms that I got are tighter than the original LW arms.

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

I tried it last night -- worked like a charm. I put a very small drop of Zap CA+ between the hinge pin and arm hole and let it dry. Then I used my Integy shock pliers (so as not to scratch the hinge pin) to break the hinge pin loose and slide it out. Now it is nice and snug -- no slop !!

Thx !

brownstone101

so u mean haveing a little slop is a good thing to absorb normal vibrations and help keep it from transfering to wheels? confused what u mean?

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

Is there anything besides the suspension that the TA 05R and the 415 share?

redbones

In a different reason, you need some slop on the inner hinge pins on the suspension arms. If you shim them to perfection, I found that they will bind in an event of a crash or even just a rub. Reason being that the suspension blocks may shift ever so slightly that it may apply pressure on the inner hinge. That's why I give the arms a little play (~.5mm) to compensate for that. If your car acts funny after a crash, take the shocks off and check the lower arms. They should just fall down with no effort at all. Better to have a little slop and get a free moving suspension than a binding one.

brownstone101

o ok gotcha makes sence.

front diff came lose today while practiceing threadlock should fix that problem correct??