Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#8056
These cars are absolutely dialed on asphalt with rubber tires.
#8057
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I second that FACT!
I race my TA05R every other weekend with local club grouped 13.5 BL class and consistently run with or faster lap times then the Xrays, Hotbodies, Losis, & the new Assiocated cars.
The TA05R handling is very consistent & fore giving, plus it is extremely durable.
At this point between driving both the MSX and TA05R, I'm favouring the 'R'.
The MSX may be a faster ride, but the consistency of the 'R' is more important to place well in every heat.
I race my TA05R every other weekend with local club grouped 13.5 BL class and consistently run with or faster lap times then the Xrays, Hotbodies, Losis, & the new Assiocated cars.
The TA05R handling is very consistent & fore giving, plus it is extremely durable.
At this point between driving both the MSX and TA05R, I'm favouring the 'R'.
The MSX may be a faster ride, but the consistency of the 'R' is more important to place well in every heat.
#8058
I was gonna run mine for the first time tonight, but I realized that the co27 I just bought doesnt have brushes
LHS closed at 7
LHS closed at 7
#8059
The brand spanking and extremely fast new digital servo I'd bought didn't have the extra wire the FET servo does and was trying to run on the limited power available to it. Much glitching and general unhappiness ensued.
So now...My BD runs an LRP QC2 and ERG WRX servo and these work flawlessly. The 05R has the Mtronik and a KO 2123 FET servo. Both run Corally IB cells and Oscar Jansen motors.
Back to ironing out the "new car niggles" but everythings working out well.
#8060
The only real weakness in the standard kit are the front dog bones, universals are more reliable (no problems with dog bones on rear) and the kit diff outdrives, however you may as well use the kit outdrives untill they get flogged out then go to precision outdrives.
That's about all I recommend untill you start turning consistant laps.
I find the kit oil dampers a bit average, go the TRF dampers and get a spring set to give tuning options to suit tracks you run on.
Final tip get a copy of the XXX Main Setup Guide book.
The Ta-05 will go faster with some other options but they are a waste of money unless you are going fast and consistant with the above suggestions.
#8061
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Depends on what level your driving's at.
The only real weakness in the standard kit are the front dog bones, universals are more reliable (no problems with dog bones on rear) and the kit diff outdrives, however you may as well use the kit outdrives untill they get flogged out then go to precision outdrives.
That's about all I recommend untill you start turning consistant laps.
I find the kit oil dampers a bit average, go the TRF dampers and get a spring set to give tuning options to suit tracks you run on.
Final tip get a copy of the XXX Main Setup Guide book.
The Ta-05 will go faster with some other options but they are a waste of money unless you are going fast and consistant with the above suggestions.
The only real weakness in the standard kit are the front dog bones, universals are more reliable (no problems with dog bones on rear) and the kit diff outdrives, however you may as well use the kit outdrives untill they get flogged out then go to precision outdrives.
That's about all I recommend untill you start turning consistant laps.
I find the kit oil dampers a bit average, go the TRF dampers and get a spring set to give tuning options to suit tracks you run on.
Final tip get a copy of the XXX Main Setup Guide book.
The Ta-05 will go faster with some other options but they are a waste of money unless you are going fast and consistant with the above suggestions.
what does the precision outdrives look like?
yeah, I changed my dampers to trf already...
okay, will try to find the XXX main setup guide book...
thanks bro...
#8064
Sigh. I have some problems!
1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those
2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)
3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.
4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.
I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.
Thoughts?
1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those
2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)
3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.
4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.
I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.
Thoughts?
#8065
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Sigh. I have some problems!
1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those
2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)
3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.
4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.
I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.
Thoughts?
1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those
2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)
3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.
4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.
I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.
Thoughts?
#8066
Frost,
Are the diffs tight enough? I guess that would be a starting point... Otherwise, maybe a problem with the axles?
Ken
Are the diffs tight enough? I guess that would be a starting point... Otherwise, maybe a problem with the axles?
Ken
#8067
Im not sure if they are tight enough...when I tighten them further, they seem to make some friction noises when I turn them.
If I hold one outdrive and spin the other, the pulley turns with it. If I hold both outdrives the pulley is locked with them...thats how its supposed to work, right?
If I hold one outdrive and spin the other, the pulley turns with it. If I hold both outdrives the pulley is locked with them...thats how its supposed to work, right?
#8068
The diffs should be fairly tight. The diff screws should be turned less than one turn out from fully tight.
#8069
The diff turns smoothly now, if I tighten it I can feel friction inside it. I guess the real question is are they supposed to turn the way the way I mentioned before?