vlozity

iTrader: (7)

i think your installing Part K10 to the front. Part K1 goes in front ... K10 is for the rear.

jjl

thanks for the suggestions. turbonium - if you're talking about part K2 in step #17, i thought that could be the problem, but if you look at the instruction manual at step #17, it looks like that part is supposed to be installed with the subtle "v" shape pointing towards the front bulkhead, as opposed to having it fact to the rear, which is the way i installed it. Maybe i'll try flipping it around anyway so that the v faces the rear.

vlocity - i'm definitely installing K1, not K10, so that's not it, but thanks.

tc3team

Im building this kit up too at the moment jjl, but with a 3racing graphite chassis.

If I get up to that step soon i'll bear this topic in mind and take a few pictures of how mine went together

I've only just finished building the diff's...

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Right, I did theis, the steering assembly on the right, you got it upside down, take it off, flip it over, put the ballstuds on the the correct way and your problems will be gone!!

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

yea, thats what i was referring to... and i think i got mine backwards the first time. maybe the pic in the manual was off, maybe? who knows...

gerok

Pics as promised









All authentic Tamiya parts except screws (fastener-express) and turnbuckles (tech racing.) I've noticed Tamiya parts fit perfect compared to aftermarket parts, only downfall is price, but "you get what you payed for." I honestly could of bought a TRF equivalent chassis, however, installing part for part was a fun process. Also, a too light chassis takes a big toll in ABS tire drifting.

Car is almost done - all I need is suspension blocks and electronics. By next week the Mamba Max will be dropped in.

Thanks to all the people who helped me decide on parts to get (and not to get )

tc3team

http://onlyrc.blogspot.com/2006/09/c...-for-ta05.html

proof that tamiya parts are strong, lol

jjl

nice ride Gerok. For a change i'm leaving my TA-05 bone stock, it's a great car out of the box. BTW, i solved my steering problem, the problem was part K7, the right steering arm, which i installed upside down...in my defense, the part looks almost exactly the same either face up. thanks for your help.

got the new 10 spoke Tamiya chromes, looks great with the silver springs on the stock kit.

sim600

iTrader: (15)

gerok, you need the lightweight carbon chassis

sim600

iTrader: (15)

That's not a Tamiya part though. Tamiya doesn't have an upper deck for the TA-05.

gerok

My wallet is recovering from a major weight loss. I might consider the carbon chassis after I eat up the plastic one....

pacific17

hi, i have an extra new in package aluminum diff joint #53919 for 22 shipped.. sorry for the ad..

fredrick5

hi,guys i have a TA05.I just want to know the normal setting for this car.(downstop,ride height,.....etc).thks

cutwo

iTrader: (6)

So I've had my TA05 out for two races now, this last one I put the carbon fibre shock tower on the front, but I could not get my ride height down to 5mm which is what it was set at before. I have the TRF shocks and am using the associated brass springs. I ended up running at 6mm and did fine, but it rotated better at the 5mm setting. Anybody else have this problem, I know others are using the carbon fibre towers and running 5mm so can you snip a little off the spring or do I have something messed up. Any help would be great. Thanks.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Get this:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53876

This would lower your spring 1mm downward, in short, shorten entire damper 1mm. This should give you 5mm ridehight. Or you can get Tamiya short spring, but I prefer 1mm downward spring holder to be solution.