PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

yeah! I use those now and I don't like them. Who has the aluminum Tamiya hexes in stock now? Or who know of any others that will work?

Mr.Roboto

iTrader: (4)

any 12mm hex will work rcmart.com has lots

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

I disagree, I have used some, and the slot for the pin is too deep, so when you tighten the wheel nut, it binds the bears, so if you get the cheap ones, get some axle shims to.

Mr.Roboto

iTrader: (4)

its arrived hurrah 4 days shipping to brisbae aus from japan
Tamiya RC ARTA NSX TA05 W/O ESC
Team Orion 15X2 SV2 Method R Motor
Yokomo SCR6712 Electric Speed Controller
TOPCAD Universal Joint/(Light Weight) For TA05
Yeah Racing Alloy Bearing C-Hub For TA05,TB02
Yeah Racing Alloy Front Knuckle Arm (BU) For TA05
Yeah Racing Alloy Rear Knuckle Arm (2Deg)(BU) For
Yeah Racing Alloy Turnbuckle Set For TA05
3Racing Graphite Front Shock Tower For Tamiya TA05
3Racing Graphite Rear Shock Tower For Tamiya TA05
3Racing Aluminium Steering Saver For Tamiya TA05
3Racing Graphite Chassis Conversion Kit For Tamiya TA
3Racing Alum Front And Rear Damper Set For Tamiya
Tamiya TRF415/TA05 Suspension Mount (A)
Tamiya TRF415/TA05 Suspension Mount (C)
Tamiya TA05 Stabilizer Set (F & R)
USD$404.10

horizon644

iTrader: (2)

Hi there,

I am new to this hobby as well. Been running the TA05 for bout 4 months. Running it with Novak GTB as well as 4.5 brushless motor. Juz feel that the motor is producing too much torque for the car to handle thus causing alot of torque roll...

Anyway, I've tried building quite a number of differentials and this is something that i can share. *Remember to change the plates for the differential.* Try putting all the balls in a small bag and rub them with differential grease. * Place them back into the holder and screw the whole unit back.

Now make use of 2 shafts or screwdrivers and place them in between the slots f the differential. Turn the belt holder with one hand while holding the other 2 screwdrivers with the other. If it slips tighten the screw or till its strong enough to hold the strength you are turning with it. Tring out this step will actually allow less slip. I've experienced a mlted diff due to a differenial slip.

Next to run in the diff... We can placeit back to the car with wheels attached. Run the motor at low voltage (i ran with 2.4 volts) and hold onto one of the wheels. Hold it there for 10 sec. and release. Do this for the opp. wheel as well. Carry the abve mentioned step for 5 cycles (left once, right once = one cycle)

By doing this, the differential has run in and should be smooth. Now take out the differential and check if there is a slip. If yes, tightened the bolt one-eighth o a circle with the hex wrench and test if it slips. It normally does not.

This is just my 2 cent worth of comments to building a diffeential and so far it does work for me. If it does not work there are a few more components to check and they are the the screw(see if it has lost thread or warp) , thelocking nut(i it losening too much),the holder if its still holdng the nut properly. If all these still does not work, then it might be due to the balls.

Thats all i haveforbuilding a simple differential and do hope that it works.

By the way,the differential can only last bout 15 runs on my brushless 4.5 it could have lasted much more if i am playing with a stock. Estmated it to be bout 30-40 packs of run time.

Cheers!

savageguy

Thanks for your help, i havnt run the diff in so i will try than now. Thanks again.

juanfinesse

I was given my TA-05 a couple weeks ago and it had some hop ups. To the point, i cant fit any other 26mm wheels onto it because SOMETHING just has to bind with it. Whether its the wheel or the arm or hub. The only wheels that fit are the ones that came with the car, how can i get rid of this darned problem?

Thanks,

Juan

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Aluminum Wheel Spacers.. they sell packages of red and blue ones to push the wheel out by a few mm's. That'll clear up the rubbing. You'll need that for 26 and 28mm foams too..

juanfinesse

o ok thanks, so i guess everybode here uses some huh?

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

If you're running rubber, use 24mm wheels. If foams, then Tamiya sells them in a 0.5mm and 1mm thickness. You can also get the Tamiya 6mm wide hex hubs P/N 53569 (the silver ones) to help.

juanfinesse

ok thanks Kevin. O and one more thing, i recognize ur avator from an issue of RC Car Action. Is that a car that won like the best body contest?? I know ive seen that paint job somewhere! IS it from a TCS race?

Thanks,

Juan

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Wow, alot of stuff happening... so much to talk about. Where to start.

Blue arimid belts-When I got mine, I set them one notch looser than the stock belts. This left my tension set at one notch in(toward the center of the chassis when viewing from either side of the car). And thats where they've been since I bought the belts. Which was right after they came out. So I've had them for quite a while. Since then I've run a little of everything through them. 19T, Stock(yuk), brushless 4300, and a little brushless 5800. The belts have stretched a little of course, but no where near whats being described here. "3 times in 9 packs"???

Diffs-Well, they suck. No other way to say it I'm afraid. Which I just don't understand. The diffs on the F201 are the best I've ever seen. Why didn't Tamiya just replicate those for the TA05? But it all went wrong here. The balls aren't very good, the rings are horrible, and the rear diff seems cursed no matter how many times you rebuild it with the stock epuipment.

Breakage-There really aren't any serious weak points on the car. Some people have had problems with the suspension blocks, but mine took some severe hits and never broke. I eventually went to the aluminum blocks to help add some low slung weight to make weight for our class. But thats the only reason. As for spares, I would say stick to the usual suspects. Arms, C-Hubs, Knuckles...but thats about it. I bought all that when I got my car, and ALL of it is still in the original packaging. Not bragging, because I've hit some stuff...whoa, have I hit some stuff hard, just no breakage to report.

Well thats my .2 cents on the issues that seem to be on peoples minds right now.

Good to see this place getting some life again. I guess theres not much to talk about when the car handles so well.

cutwo

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tip on just the spares to get. I'll have to order some from the local shop as its just a bunch of Losi and Associated stuff on their shelves.

I saw CIVIC's post on his setup a while back so I think I'll try it when I get the car. So what kind of diff balls would you go to. Would the associated stuff work better?

Can't wait to get it rolling in the new year.

P956LH

Hmm technically the AE balls are 1/8 inches = 3.175mm in diameter, whereas the Tamiya balls are 3mm in diameter. I've never tried any AE balls...what I use is 53379 Tamiya 3mm Lightweight Diff Balls, so far no problems (but I run only 27T stock).

Xenon and Acer makes ceramic diff balls for Tamiyas, but I guess they're pretty expensive...

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for noticing. It's the body I won concourse for GT-2 class at the Tamiya Nationals this year. It's the Calsonic 350Z body set that I painted with the Taisan paint scheme (from the '95 Taisan Porsche 911 JGTC car). I added the 2-pc piece Tamiya rims, a real Tamiya interior from the mid '90's, and added antenna's and exhaust. What issue of R/C Car Action did you see it in ? I might have to look for the issue.