GTT

With the higher rear downstop value (less up travel), it will decrease rear chassis up travel under off throttle or braking. It will have less weight transfer. It does make sense, I will try it this weekend. Hope it will make my car go even faster.

juanfinesse

got a problem, today i was testing my car and it was spinning out like crazy to the right, i fixed up the steering trim but that did nothing, i run a yellow sway bar in front and blue in back, yellow springs up front, and blue on back. i run on tight indoor ashpaly high grip. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Juan

shift

Put the blue springs on the front instead of the back and yellows at the back and but the blue sway bar up front with the yellow on the back try that and see how that goes

juanfinesse

ok thanks, i sent u a pm shift

Viat

iTrader: (24)

juanfinesse,

I at the "C", but I ran either white or blue springs and blue sway bar in the front, and red springs and sway bar in the rear.
How much droop do you have in the front and rear?
What is your ground clearance in the front and rear?

over gear

iTrader: (18)

i was building my ta05 last night with the optional graphit composite chassis. the rear end seems to be tweaked Do you guys also see that? or it's just me?

westerdude42

Did you check your droop? if it's only one direction and nothing is rubbing that will cause this problem.

AWK

iTrader: (9)

Does anyone have a TA05 with a GTX speed control? I am trying to figure out the best way to mount mine with the diode on it. I can't seem to find the right place to put the diode on the car. Any pics would be great!!!

proceed5

I am using a Tamiya Graphite Chassis and mine has tweak upfront. I managed to solve this by loosening all the countersunk screws at the bottom of chassis, the front and rear bulkheads and the top front and rear stiffeners.
Then I would usually start tighthening (where possible cross sectionally) in the following procedures: the Center Bottom to Motor Mount (tight), bottom suspension bridges front and rear (adjust fit & tighten, ensure it is square to chassis), top motor mount, bottom rear bulkhead (cross sectionally), bottom front bulkhead (cross sectionally), top bulkheads rear to front (hand tight, no need to apply too much force here, these screws don't come off easily), inside of rear stiffener (the 3x12 screws), inside of front stiffener to steering linkage inside front stiffener to top front bulkhead (3x12) and lastly the remaining 3x10s to the rear and front stiffeners (hand tight, don't force & adjust).
It has worked for me and I have been doing the above since i fitted the TA05 with the Tamiya Graphite chassis. It often tweaks after knocks and the process of re-screwing is almost a "standard operating procedure".
Cheers

AWK

iTrader: (9)

On another note, I bought this TA05 used and it seems to have a shorter wheelbase than usual by a few mm. Where should I start checking to see where it might be off?

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Mainly the spacers around the suspension arms.. check the manual and just make sure they're in the right place.

If it came with the plastic suspension mounts, that should be it.. if it came with aluminum ones, extra toe in/out from those blocks can change your wheelbase too.

AWK

iTrader: (9)

It came with the reversable lightweight suspension, and I do not have the instructions for it sadly. Luckily I can go to Tamiya on Monday if necessary.

ittjv

iTrader: (32)

Hey Andrew, put 7mm on the inside of the arms, both front and back. This should be a good start. You may want to go less or more up front depending on the amount of outboard tow you have.

AWK

iTrader: (9)

Thanks a ton! It was way off.....

What baseline toe settings (what blocks front and rear) are you guys using for an outdoor asphalt track?

proceed5

My TA05 runs with:
Front-Front 1B , Front-Rear 1XB (inboard toe of 2), 8.5mm spacers on front sus arm pins.
Rear-front 1XB , Rear-rear 1D (inboard toe of 3), 7mm spacers on rear sus arm pins.