Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#1698
Awesome TA05!!!
Hey all, this is Myx friend. I built the car the night before the big trophy race. We had very little time to practice with the car, but we were able to come up with a good setup for the car, and it was on pace and threatening to take TQ by 1 lap ahead of the current TQ. But as what Myx mentioned we had some challenges with the plastic outdrives and had to modify this to accommodate an o-ring. Both me and Myx blew 2 quali out of 5 because of this.
All I can say is that this car is sweeeet, soo quiet, smooth drivetrain, we used the kit bearings without lubing or cleaning it. The way it carries corner speed is amazing.
Unlike Myx, I built the car with the kit suspension. The only thing I changed were the dogbones and opted to use CVD's instead.
I did win the finals against an MS, MSX, FK05, JRXS, TC4 and Pro4.
I can't wait to run this in the 19t class!
All I can say is that this car is sweeeet, soo quiet, smooth drivetrain, we used the kit bearings without lubing or cleaning it. The way it carries corner speed is amazing.
Unlike Myx, I built the car with the kit suspension. The only thing I changed were the dogbones and opted to use CVD's instead.
I did win the finals against an MS, MSX, FK05, JRXS, TC4 and Pro4.
I can't wait to run this in the 19t class!
#1699
Steven, are you using the stock suspension or LW suspension? If you are running the LW suspension, my suggestions for the aluminum blocks are 1X/1XD (front f/r) and 1xc/1x (rear f/r) if you are using the 0degree rear hubs and a spool (locked front diff).
#1700
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
With my stock belt tension setting my car felt as though the driveline was a little less free than I like. I then loosened both belts 1 click and it was perfect...very free. I ran it last weekend with a 19t on foams and no belt slippage.
#1701
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Any pics of the outdrive mod?
Originally Posted by rcspeedo
Hey all, this is Myx friend. I built the car the night before the big trophy race. We had very little time to practice with the car, but we were able to come up with a good setup for the car, and it was on pace and threatening to take TQ by 1 lap ahead of the current TQ. But as what Myx mentioned we had some challenges with the plastic outdrives and had to modify this to accommodate an o-ring. Both me and Myx blew 2 quali out of 5 because of this.
All I can say is that this car is sweeeet, soo quiet, smooth drivetrain, we used the kit bearings without lubing or cleaning it. The way it carries corner speed is amazing.
Unlike Myx, I built the car with the kit suspension. The only thing I changed were the dogbones and opted to use CVD's instead.
I did win the finals against an MS, MSX, FK05, JRXS, TC4 and Pro4.
I can't wait to run this in the 19t class!
All I can say is that this car is sweeeet, soo quiet, smooth drivetrain, we used the kit bearings without lubing or cleaning it. The way it carries corner speed is amazing.
Unlike Myx, I built the car with the kit suspension. The only thing I changed were the dogbones and opted to use CVD's instead.
I did win the finals against an MS, MSX, FK05, JRXS, TC4 and Pro4.
I can't wait to run this in the 19t class!
#1702
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Aparatchik
Just finished building the car last night and installed the VFS-1. I've only taken a test run around the house, but I don't really think I've noticed it being quieter than other cars I've had. What should I expect as far as quietness/noise?
Also, what should I expect as far as free spin? Will the drivetrain free up over time, or should I be worried that things are binding?
Also, what should I expect as far as free spin? Will the drivetrain free up over time, or should I be worried that things are binding?
#1704
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Steven, are you using the stock suspension or LW suspension? If you are running the LW suspension, my suggestions for the aluminum blocks are 1X/1XD (front f/r) and 1xc/1x (rear f/r) if you are using the 0degree rear hubs and a spool (locked front diff).
I'm also looking for using alum suspension mounts. I know that the "inner" blocks must be bridge. Are there X-series blocks bridge ? Or should I use A or D bridge with "outer" X-series blocks?
thanks
#1705
Steve, I would also pick up some spare 1A and 1B blocks so that you can tune the rear toe.
Neosan, no need for a bridge block. You simply just flip the other blocks upside down for the belt to pass under them. The newer 1XA~1XD blocks are designed this way. They are already ground out for use with a spacer (that comes with the block) if you flip it upside down. You'll see if you purchase them. They come with directions.
Neosan, no need for a bridge block. You simply just flip the other blocks upside down for the belt to pass under them. The newer 1XA~1XD blocks are designed this way. They are already ground out for use with a spacer (that comes with the block) if you flip it upside down. You'll see if you purchase them. They come with directions.
#1707
If using the standard shocks what is the best springs to use as there seems to be a couple of options?
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
#1708
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Originally Posted by Steven Key
KilRuf
"Good idea"
Do you know what the toe would be with the 1A & 1B. I'm trying to get about 2 1/2 degrees of rear toe. I currently have the 1 degree rear hubs and a one way in the front. It is a stock motor running on rubber tires car.
"Good idea"
Do you know what the toe would be with the 1A & 1B. I'm trying to get about 2 1/2 degrees of rear toe. I currently have the 1 degree rear hubs and a one way in the front. It is a stock motor running on rubber tires car.
example: 1 deg alum rear hubs with A-C blocks in the rear will give you 2.5 deg of rear toe.
A-A = 0 deg
A-B = 0.5 deg
A-C = 1.0 deg
etc. etc. narrowest block is the 1XD, then 1XC all the way to 1A.....1D.
go to the 415 thread. a guy named "TryHard" has a website link in his signature. you can download the excel file that has all the blocks. and corresponding toe degrees.
hope that helps...
#1710
Well I tend to ignore what the blocks toe should be. The setup I gave you with the blocks gives me 1degree toe in on my Integy setup station. But the chart says it's suppose to be 1.5degree toe in. I prefer that or less for Stock class with a spool. So if you are looking for 2.5 rear toe, then the chart says you need a 1B rear block with a 1XC block (if you are using 0degree rear hubs). You said you have 1degree rear hubs... so then you can stick the my setup of a 1XC/1X block. The chart says this will give you 1.5dgree rear toe plus your 1 degree rear block to equal 2.5degree rear toe. Oh, and you get a basic chart when you purchase the 1X# blocks. Hope this helps...