Originally Posted by cheehtae
I am probabaly running a little heavy because I was using a 3800 on my first raced and 3rd race, and all of the guys there racing were all CF chassis. I am already thinking of lightening my car, like going alum on my swing shafts, high prec. diff joints, titanium screws and we were following the IFMAR rules and no weight regulations.One more thing ARAMID BELTS are they a must?
If you are running Stock class then forget about 3800's. They are heavy and you will not use up the charge. The winner of the Tamiya TCS GP2 class won by falling back to 3000 batteries and using the lighter weight advantage to beat the guys running higher batteries. I would suggest 3300's.
Also, do not use the battery holder pieces. They are surprisingly heavy. Cut slots in frame in front and behind the battery compartment and use strapping tape.
Then consider your suspension system. If you want to buy the Light Weight suspension kit, then this is a good time to do so. If not, then you can make a minor weight saving by cutting out internal bracing in the suspension arms. I will assume you are using the stock (soft) arms. If so, then just cut out the farthers out brace -- the braces nearest the wheels. If you remove all the braces it will soften the arms to the point you will probably notice too much. If you have the optional "hard" arms, then I have heard that some racers have run reasonably successfully with all the internal bracing in the arms removed. But obviously, if you have not bought the hard arms and weight is an issue, then buying the real "light weight" kit is probably a better way to spend the money.
But at this point we are starting to talk "money money money money. . . ." I usually wait till parts brake and upgrade in that priority, which is disorganized and not optimal from a performance standpoint. I make up for it by tuning and driving the best I can. :-)
If you want to minimize your spending and get best performance for your changes, then I suggest the following order of priority:
1. Pieces that lighten spinning things come first, and the higher the spin speed (pinion gear comes first) and farther out to the wheels, the better (axle stubs *before* the the dogbones).
2. Pieces that move in the suspension come next (the ball heads that hold the shocks on the arms are probably more important than 2 or 3 screws in the chassis).
3. Pieces higher up on the car are more important than lower pieces (the screws on the bottom middle of the chassis are probably not worth changing at all, and in fact on some cars you *want* the extra weight there so you are shooting yourself in the foot).
[Later added comment: Hah! I just checked my car and the 2 middle screws on the TA05 chassis are particularly long and heavy screws which I happened to have in titanium, so I changed them first. Well, I was only thinking in generalities when I wrote this message.]
As for the Aramid belts, for stock class they are more important than for Open class, but they do not lighten anything. They are simply more efficient.