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Old 06-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #91
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I don't have the rtr but should be close to the same set up. It's important to make sure the chassis is balanced left to right and not tweeked.

Ride height: depends on bumps, lower is better some where around 10mm, a little track scuffing is acceptable for me as we have a high speed cross town with bumps.
Droop: A little more in the rear, 10-15mm. Absolutely left same as right side.
Camber: 2 1/2f and 2r degrees
Pinion: On our track you need to go 50-55mph on the straight(~220'), with 2650/4s and high speed diff gears(3.31) a 19-20t pinion/42 spur is needed. Fast lap times for us are in the 21-22 second bracket.
Shock position: middle top and outboard bottom.

These cars are laying down the fastest laps on our track ever for GT8. They're not far behind the 1/10 mod sedans. Not bad for ~8.5lb car.
Thanks our back straight is only about 130' but that gives me some good starting points
One other question diff oil what are people running front and back
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #92
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My 80% Gt-V2e measures exactly 360mm, same as Kyosho GT2. Vette body(CV) perfect fit both chassis.
There is absolutely no reason why the RTR would be longer. Wonder if thats typo on the Ofna spec page.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:06 AM   #93
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Thanks our back straight is only about 130' but that gives me some good starting points
One other question diff oil what are people running front and back
50-55mph top speed not gonna happen for that straight. Stock supplied diff gears should suffice.

I like a free rear diff with not much limiting. I usually run black moly in the rear, light silicone will work if it doesn't leak.

Something in the 300k range up front for pulling power and a little auto front braking when cornering. These big heavy cars will heat up ESCs with drag brake.

A spool in the middle.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #94
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If your serious about racing this car on a track then go with the pro version! It will cost way more in the long run to bring the rtr to pro quality. Hell the pro shocks alone are over $120 also the rtr esc and motor would need replaced.... do your self a favor and get the pro. Did I mention the pro?
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:40 PM   #95
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If your serious about racing this car on a track then go with the pro version! It will cost way more in the long run to bring the rtr to pro quality. Hell the pro shocks alone are over $120 also the rtr esc and motor would need replaced.... do your self a favor and get the pro. Did I mention the pro?
I would've got the pro if I could afford it but fully outfitted its over a thousand at least with top of the line stuff. It's easier fro me to upgrade a bit at a time and have some fun along the way the rtr is fast enough to enjoy it on the track and I don't have to replace the shocks and outdrives until they fail. Just did the motor and esc still have less than the pro and motor esc in it and that's including the cvds for the rear and the grp wheels and tires . I'll keep this car for a while so it will eventually be a pro but I wanted to try 1/8 and not invest a fortune to try it. Besides if I could lay that much out I would probably buy the serpent.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:46 PM   #96
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I was just talking about people trying to decide on what model to buy. I got the rtr myself and kinda regret it. Once I started looking all the parts needed to upgrage it to a pro I quickly realized it's going to cost a arm and a leg lol. The prices on anything metal is absolutely rediculouse. The rtr is a good car but if you have the bank then buy the pro.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:53 PM   #97
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I was just talking about people trying to decide on what model to buy. I got the rtr myself and kinda regret it. Once I started looking all the parts needed to upgrage it to a pro I quickly realized it's going to cost a arm and a leg lol. The prices on anything metal is absolutely rediculouse. The rtr is a good car but if you have the bank then buy the pro.
I completely agree my plan is more to upgrade afew things for this season prob get the pro roller next year AMD put the rtr gear back in this one make it a basher or drifter to play with that way I don't have to lay out 500 for the kit AMD another 500 for everything else all at once . Plus I get to race and have 8th scale fun along the way. Only thing I regret is not being flush enough to go pro from the get go. I also built two new 10th scales for my son and I last month so the wife is getting a little antsy about the bank acct.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:59 PM   #98
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That's cool your getting the whole family involved! I just tell my wife the smiles these things put on my face are priceless. RC also keeps my brain entertained because there is always something to fix or modify or paint etc...it's a killer hobby!
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:06 PM   #99
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It's nice to finally see some activity in this thread, if you look back the last page or two is me pretty much just me talking to myself lol! Check out these videos of my car. Subscribe!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=636j...e_gdata_player
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:53 PM   #100
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That's cool your getting the whole family involved! I just tell my wife the smiles these things put on my face are priceless. RC also keeps my brain entertained because there is always something to fix or modify or paint etc...it's a killer hobby!
My son has my wife and an older and younger sister so we use this hobby to go estrogen free for a few hours a week. I'm also quite the tinkerer and will take things apart just to see how they work rc keeps me away from her appliances .
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:38 PM   #101
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Something I didn't see mentioned was Shock Oil. I replaced the Crisco in my RTR with 50 up front and 40 in the rear and seem pretty happy with it. Been running Sweep 50E and grip has been pretty good with those. Lastly, that stock servo needs to go if you haven't already (Pretty sure it has).

Maybe you guys can help me out on gearing. I have the RTR version running 2200KV MM Combo still with the 4.3 diffs and 42 spur with a 20 pinion. After about a 3 minute run my temp is around 135 and am afraid to push it any longer. This is while running 4S. Funny thing is once in awhile I throw a 3rd pack in there to bring myself to 6S just to pull some high speed straights and I swear the motor runs cooler. Am I actually under or over geared here? Whats the biggest pinion that will fit with the 42 spur? Should 3.3 diffs be in my future?

Any help is well appreciated!
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:09 AM   #102
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Rear cvds will arrive today and got my mamba 2650 and monster esc yesterday so time for some wrenching.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #103
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My son has my wife and an older and younger sister so we use this hobby to go estrogen free for a few hours a week. I'm also quite the tinkerer and will take things apart just to see how they work rc keeps me away from her appliances .
Nice!
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:25 PM   #104
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Rear cvds will arrive today and got my mamba 2650 and monster esc yesterday so time for some wrenching.
Yes! Were you able to find a decent price on the cvd's? The 2650kv has got serious balls compared to the the 2500kv stock motor. I'm running the hpi tork 2650kv and castle esc, it's scary fast on 6s. I did buy the high speed diffs though.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:33 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by Joker4132 View Post
Something I didn't see mentioned was Shock Oil. I replaced the Crisco in my RTR with 50 up front and 40 in the rear and seem pretty happy with it. Been running Sweep 50E and grip has been pretty good with those. Lastly, that stock servo needs to go if you haven't already (Pretty sure it has).

Maybe you guys can help me out on gearing. I have the RTR version running 2200KV MM Combo still with the 4.3 diffs and 42 spur with a 20 pinion. After about a 3 minute run my temp is around 135 and am afraid to push it any longer. This is while running 4S. Funny thing is once in awhile I throw a 3rd pack in there to bring myself to 6S just to pull some high speed straights and I swear the motor runs cooler. Am I actually under or over geared here? Whats the biggest pinion that will fit with the 42 spur? Should 3.3 diffs be in my future?

Any help is well appreciated!
Ya, your gearing might be a bit tall for your 4s batteries, 6s will run cooler because the motor has the voltage and amperage available. As voltage drops amperage used goes up to maintain the load. Maybe higher Capacity or higher C rating will be required for 20t. Id try a 18 or 16t. If it still gets to hot it might be your batteries or just high ambient temps to begin with. 135f isn't that high, I dont worry to much until 170f.
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