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Old 08-03-2013, 03:26 AM   #331
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So its looking like I need to turn the spur shaft to get the kershaw 34t on it. Can anybody confirm this?
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #332
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[QUOTE=Jspeed;12406317]+1 and after watching how the XO1's go airborn its a pretty risky set-up.

But hey, if he wants to spend the money and energy to make the tooling & parts? Go for it!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCblMr7dSdU

If you watch this vid closely he loses control early in his run, then tries to correct at which point your going along for the ride.One of the main reasons i work so hard at getting my car to track straight.A lot of blow overs are caused by driver error.

Roll, Point & Pin.Chris
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:47 AM   #333
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So its looking like I need to turn the spur shaft to get the kershaw 34t on it. Can anybody confirm this?
You mean turn as in lathe work.The spindle shaft is 8mm, Kershaw pinion is 8mm,should slide right on, no?
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:51 AM   #334
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Just need to know what else I need if I decide to join the "Highspeed GT Club".[/QUOTE]

"Nerves of Steel",jokes aside I'm just one example of making it to 100mph club, if there's such a thing.My set up, pinions, bat, etc. are all here for the taking, so i won't itemize.Good luck Chris Haberland.
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #335
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You mean turn as in lathe work.The spindle shaft is 8mm, Kershaw pinion is 8mm,should slide right on, no?
Ya, it slides right on but its about .05 to .075 to thick on the set screw side so when I slide it on flush till it hits the stop my diff risers are to far apart to get the holes to line up in the chassis and top plate. Looking like I will need to turn it.
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:24 PM   #336
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I bought these diff gears. http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_gt-v2e_hop-ups.html

Then I bought a 34t 8mm bore mod 1 pinion from keshaw designs, im hoping it shows up today or tomorrow. This will replace the factory spur setup on the factory shaft. Ill be trying 34/25.

You have the pro car or the rtr? I just put these new shocks together with 80wt shock oil in all 4 what fluid are you guys running? The 6 hole pistons take some heavy fluid if you dont want the front to scrape when you brake hard. Sexy!


Hi Jstall,i use 40wt up front 70wt rear.Braking and the body scraping is an issue, thats why my car gets so far away on me, as i pump my brakes to avoid this.I like to keep the front end and or shocks as soft as possible, absorbs anomalies on the road surface and it allows the down force to push the chassis and body down as close to the road as i can get, hence less air flow under the car when i make a pass.It's a compromise i will live with for now.Cheers Chris
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:28 PM   #337
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Ya, it slides right on but its about .05 to .075 to thick on the set screw side so when I slide it on flush till it hits the stop my diff risers are to far apart to get the holes to line up in the chassis and top plate. Looking like I will need to turn it.
Ah gotcha, i'm going to order one self, no need for a spindle,simple.Chris
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:36 PM   #338
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Hi Jstall,i use 40wt up front 70wt rear.Braking and the body scraping is an issue, thats why my car gets so far away on me, as i pump my brakes to avoid this.I like to keep the front end and or shocks as soft as possible, absorbs anomalies on the road surface and it allows the down force to push the chassis and body down as close to the road as i can get, hence less air flow under the car when i make a pass.It's a compromise i will live with for now.Cheers Chris
Thats weird, I tried 40, 60, 80 and 80wt still feels pretty soft for bladder shocks. The 6 hole pistons feel like nothing with 40wt. I've been into off road since 95 and I normally run pretty light also. I had to make a special trip to the hobby shop to get 80wt. I was running 80wt in the stock rtr shocks also and it still felt just a tiny bit firmer than stock. Anyway all the roads around here are pretty bumpy so 80wt feels pretty good to me and actually has some dampening and not just all spring. Everyone's got a different style and thats what I love about the mechanics of RC. I'm still in search of a perfect location....
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:21 PM   #339
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Thats weird, I tried 40, 60, 80 and 80wt still feels pretty soft for bladder shocks. The 6 hole pistons feel like nothing with 40wt. I've been into off road since 95 and I normally run pretty light also. I had to make a special trip to the hobby shop to get 80wt. I was running 80wt in the stock rtr shocks also and it still felt just a tiny bit firmer than stock. Anyway all the roads around here are pretty bumpy so 80wt feels pretty good to me and actually has some dampening and not just all spring. Everyone's got a different style and thats what I love about the mechanics of RC. I'm still in search of a perfect location....
I hear ya, i basically have no suspension in the front at all,if you push down on the front of my car it rebounds very slowly.Chris
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:58 PM   #340
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Hi Jstall,i use 40wt up front 70wt rear.Braking and the body scraping is an issue, thats why my car gets so far away on me, as i pump my brakes to avoid this.I like to keep the front end and or shocks as soft as possible, absorbs anomalies on the road surface and it allows the down force to push the chassis and body down as close to the road as i can get, hence less air flow under the car when i make a pass.It's a compromise i will live with for now.Cheers Chris
Have you tried something like 50/80 or 60/90 on shock oils?
Too stiff?

I like the way you reduced the spoiler angle, I was thinking of doing something similar with another Warrior body mold.

Your car does look very smooth in your video top speed video runs.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:02 PM   #341
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The 6 hole pistons feel like nothing with 40wt.....
The extra holes and size pass thru more shock oil volume quicker, I get that.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:19 PM   #342
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Ok, 34t pinion for a spur is installed. The nearest lathe for me is 35mi one way so I carefully used a my dremal to remove the shoulder where the stock spur adapter sets against and elongated the flat. Look for about a .335 inside gap from the far shoulder to the pinion and make sure all 8 diff riser screw holes line up perfectly or the shaft will bind when tightened down and create serious drag/bind.

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Old 08-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #343
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Sharp,very nice.Liking the fender cut, i may just do that.Cheers Chris
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:35 PM   #344
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I just test drove it to 50mph and everything seemed ok but maybe the rear is to stiff with the new springs. Super fast now with the new gearing lol like 50 at 1/4 throttle.... now the fear is setting in.... I blacked out the center spoke on the grp's and I think it looks tight. Looks like I cut it out but didn't. Optical illusion.
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:42 PM   #345
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Ok, 34t pinion for a spur is installed. The nearest lathe for me is 35mi one way so I carefully used a my dremal to remove the shoulder where the stock spur adapter sets against and elongated the flat. Look for about a .335 inside gap from the far shoulder to the pinion and make sure all 8 diff riser screw holes line up perfectly or the shaft will bind when tightened down and create serious drag/bind.

Sharp looking Warrior!
Like that cut too, reminds me of the old Porsche LeMans cars.



Thanks for sharing, good luck with your top speed runs!
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